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NO COMPRESSION....wtf?????

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Old Nov 5, 2005 | 01:17 PM
  #141  
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Honestly, the motor should've been ball honed/ringed and had the bottom bearings checked with plastiguage at the minimum so we would know exactly how the shortblock is condition wise, those "take out" motors true all ran but were "take outs" for a reason, Good Luck Rob,

J
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Old Nov 6, 2005 | 08:12 AM
  #142  
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Originally Posted by TS6
I give up, seriously, keep bumping the thread. How many ******* people have to tell you the same thing before you believe it? God I wish my problems were always this simple and obvious.......
What are you talking about???
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Old Nov 6, 2005 | 08:12 AM
  #143  
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Originally Posted by sercastiK
Honestly, the motor should've been ball honed/ringed and had the bottom bearings checked with plastiguage at the minimum so we would know exactly how the shortblock is condition wise, those "take out" motors true all ran but were "take outs" for a reason, Good Luck Rob,

J
Thanks Jeremy, I will let you know how it turns out..
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Old Nov 6, 2005 | 11:42 PM
  #144  
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take your time, buy some rings and bearings while its out, fix them heads, do it once yanno..even buy all the parts and have someone that knows a lot help you, its worth a few bones...
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 06:02 AM
  #145  
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yeah, heads are fine though......had them checked out last week....
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 09:17 AM
  #146  
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thats good, u check your comp lifters side by side with a stock one?
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 01:51 PM
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Yeah, they are the same.....
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 04:23 PM
  #148  
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Do both the lifters have the same depth? I fucked up my heads getting the pushrod length off, even when I used an adjustable pushrod. I could only get pushrods in 50 thousandths increments locally at crower, so I bracketed it and tried them both. I tried the short ones and it was too loose, tossed the longer ones in and too much preload. Fabricated a 20 thousandths shim and it was right, but by that time I'd trashed the lifters and the valves so I tossed stock lifters and some other ported heads I had sitting around on, it came out to a 7.35 so I ran those and it worked.

With the longer pushrod in (only by 20-30 thousands) it was too much preload and I had no compression. The preload caused the valves to smack. The loose ones that I tried first trashed the lifters because the pushrod was jumping up and down on them.

Lets just say it was a 'learning' experience. I would say it has to be a valvetrain geometry issue. Do you have an adjustable pushrod to put in there just to check?
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Old Nov 14, 2005 | 08:00 AM
  #149  
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so whats the updated here?
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Old Nov 14, 2005 | 08:11 AM
  #150  
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Originally Posted by HASTINGSRJ
Yeah, they are the same.....
I got your call but i cant take the rod bolts out til i set the motor on the stand to disassemble it. Ill have it out of the car on Friday night, homie.

Mike
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Old Nov 14, 2005 | 11:19 AM
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ok, thanks Mike....I will let you know..
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Old Dec 15, 2005 | 06:34 PM
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Any updates on what happened?
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Old Dec 15, 2005 | 08:10 PM
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Was this the guy that found out he had no piston rings and that the motor was assembled half-***?
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Old Dec 15, 2005 | 08:31 PM
  #154  
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Originally Posted by Ferocity02
Was this the guy that found out he had no piston rings and that the motor was assembled half-***?
No rings on the pistons........stop my stomach hurts
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 05:12 AM
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Thats exactly what happened. Whoever he bought the motor from hosed him big time We are reassembling the motor now. Should be up and running by Sat.
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 06:37 AM
  #156  
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OMG - tell me that someone got an *** whoopin over that!
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 11:31 AM
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Trust me, quite a few of us offered to go down there and kick some teeth in American History X style
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by wicked_95z
Trust me, quite a few of us offered to go down there and kick some teeth in American History X style
I belive the person he bought the motor from didn't know about the shitty engine rebuild. I think the seller had the motor rebuilt then he sold it right away without using it.
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 04:51 PM
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The seller never touched the block and told him to go through it before installing it. He buys motors from wrecking yards and resells them. I have done lots of buisness with him and he is not at all a shadey guy. Seventy percent of the the parts on my car came from him and all are working perfectly. Any used short block should be disassembled and all bearing checked and or replaced before being used. I know there was a time crunch on this project so the checking and rebuilding was not done.
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 08:02 PM
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You would think certain things could be taken for granted, especially when he was told it came out of a running 02 'vette. Besides, who takes apart a complete short block just to take stock rings and nothing else?? Im not really trying to kick anyone around, just doesn't add up
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