NO COMPRESSION....wtf?????
Honestly, the motor should've been ball honed/ringed and had the bottom bearings checked with plastiguage at the minimum so we would know exactly how the shortblock is condition wise, those "take out" motors true all ran but were "take outs" for a reason, Good Luck Rob,
J
J
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,131
Likes: 4
From: Franklin MASS
Originally Posted by TS6
I give up, seriously, keep bumping the thread. How many ******* people have to tell you the same thing before you believe it? God I wish my problems were always this simple and obvious.......
What are you talking about??? Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,131
Likes: 4
From: Franklin MASS
Originally Posted by sercastiK
Honestly, the motor should've been ball honed/ringed and had the bottom bearings checked with plastiguage at the minimum so we would know exactly how the shortblock is condition wise, those "take out" motors true all ran but were "take outs" for a reason, Good Luck Rob,
J
J
take your time, buy some rings and bearings while its out, fix them heads, do it once yanno..even buy all the parts and have someone that knows a lot help you, its worth a few bones...
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 618
Likes: 0
From: San Diego
Do both the lifters have the same depth? I fucked up my heads getting the pushrod length off, even when I used an adjustable pushrod. I could only get pushrods in 50 thousandths increments locally at crower, so I bracketed it and tried them both. I tried the short ones and it was too loose, tossed the longer ones in and too much preload. Fabricated a 20 thousandths shim and it was right, but by that time I'd trashed the lifters and the valves so I tossed stock lifters and some other ported heads I had sitting around on, it came out to a 7.35 so I ran those and it worked.
With the longer pushrod in (only by 20-30 thousands) it was too much preload and I had no compression. The preload caused the valves to smack. The loose ones that I tried first trashed the lifters because the pushrod was jumping up and down on them.
Lets just say it was a 'learning' experience. I would say it has to be a valvetrain geometry issue. Do you have an adjustable pushrod to put in there just to check?
With the longer pushrod in (only by 20-30 thousands) it was too much preload and I had no compression. The preload caused the valves to smack. The loose ones that I tried first trashed the lifters because the pushrod was jumping up and down on them.
Lets just say it was a 'learning' experience. I would say it has to be a valvetrain geometry issue. Do you have an adjustable pushrod to put in there just to check?
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Originally Posted by HASTINGSRJ
Yeah, they are the same.....
Mike
TECH Veteran
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 4,117
Likes: 0
From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA
Originally Posted by Ferocity02
Was this the guy that found out he had no piston rings and that the motor was assembled half-***?
Originally Posted by wicked_95z
Trust me, quite a few of us offered to go down there and kick some teeth in American History X style
The seller never touched the block and told him to go through it before installing it. He buys motors from wrecking yards and resells them. I have done lots of buisness with him and he is not at all a shadey guy. Seventy percent of the the parts on my car came from him and all are working perfectly. Any used short block should be disassembled and all bearing checked and or replaced before being used. I know there was a time crunch on this project so the checking and rebuilding was not done.
You would think certain things could be taken for granted, especially when he was told it came out of a running 02 'vette. Besides, who takes apart a complete short block just to take stock rings and nothing else?? Im not really trying to kick anyone around, just doesn't add up