Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Copper flakes in oil drain pan!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-13-2005, 02:24 PM
  #21  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
 
Brandon Boomhauer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Gainesville, Denton TX
Posts: 8,766
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by robertbartsch
Brandon:
That blows; did your busted motor have mods - cam, heads, etc.? Were you using the stock lifters? I assume these were the cause right - or was it an after market cam whose scratchy lopes tore up the lifter rollers?

I'm mildly pissed about my cam sensor issue. If it is the cam reluctor "notched grove" that is now bad, I can safely assume that it has become this way as a result of a defective after market Comp cam. It has been in for 3 years now....

I have not noticed any metal shavings on my drain plug magnet or in the oil, however...
F14 cam, stock lifters, manley springs, stock heads
fms pushrods
cam install at 55k, motor go byebye at 69xxx
I'm thinking more along the lines of the lifters went south and then ate the cam up.
I think maybe 1 lifter was good looking, the rest were shot. The cam only has 3 lobes damaged, one with around an 1/8" lip on it...
Old 09-13-2005, 02:46 PM
  #22  
On The Tree
 
6spdpewterZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: El Paso TX
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 99whitews6
So, if I tighten the bolts and put the engine back together. Change the oil and never see copper flakes in the oil again it is still going to fall apart? Bearing material has to go somewhere right?
It seems like you want us to tell you what you want to hear. I would tear the engine down and inspect it ASAP. Unless you have the money to get another one.
Old 09-13-2005, 02:46 PM
  #23  
TECH Veteran
 
robertbartsch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Hartsdale, NY
Posts: 4,055
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

I bought new lifters, rockers, push rods, double springs, etc... for my H/c mods...

I guess there is no way to tell when hard parts start to tear up.... sort of like watching the news about a bad hurricane heading your way..... by this time it is too late, your house is already gone...
Old 09-13-2005, 04:16 PM
  #24  
TECH Regular
iTrader: (3)
 
marine02ss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Laredo,Tx
Posts: 493
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

That's premature bearing failure Watch out or engine failure could result in ignoring
it
Old 09-13-2005, 08:34 PM
  #25  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
 
GuitsBoy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 6,249
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by marine02ss
That's premature bearing failure Watch out or engine failure could result in ignoring
it
Im going to throw caution to the wind and say that you simply can not determine that to be the case. As he said, the cam had walked backwards and when it did so, theres a good chance that the reluctor groove could have taken a few shavings off the edge of the bearing effectively giving him a smaller (not as wide) bearing. If this were the case - hypothetically - it would not pose any significant harm to continue running the motor now that the cam was tightened back into place. The unfortunate news is that theres really no way to check this without tearing the motor apart and having a look up close an personal. I guess if you pulled the cam and took a look with a long borescope you could probably check the bearings condition and where exactly the shaving came from. But saying that its premature bearing wear is ignoring the fact that the cam walked.

In the end though you probably have a lot of work to do. The people who suggest that you tear down the motor to inspect and replace that cam bearing are giving you the best advice. I only offer the possibility that when you do get there, it may still be in reasonable condition. If you were going to take your chances and run the car anyway, I would still pull the cam and try and get a look inside witha bore scope. If thats not possible, at the very least drain your oil every couple days and look for more shavings. You can reuse the oil after you inspect it. Just be sure that you understand that youre taking your motor's life into your own hands as theres a very real possibility it may eventually go boom.
Old 09-14-2005, 05:30 AM
  #26  
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
99whitews6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 907
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Alright, I figure I need to do this the right way. This will be an project for over the winter. What can I use from the engine to rebuild? I might as well just start from scratch and get it done right. Money wont be available for a month or so but I can start planning now. Block(car) only has 23K and the cam has only been in for 2K miles. When I put the cam in the motor also received new headers, pump, chain, and valve springs. What can I save? What should go?

Sorry Steel Chicken about being retarted. I was just in denial that this would happen to the motor so fast. WHen I pulled the motor apart last night I found that all three Cam bolts were VERY loose (loc-tite was used). Anyways, whats my best route as far as rebuild?
Old 09-14-2005, 07:55 AM
  #27  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
 
GuitsBoy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 6,249
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

****, at 23K I wouldnt touch a thing except the cam bearings. Take it apart, but make sure each component goes back in the same location. Piston one back into bore number one. You can reuse the rings as long as theyre in the same order and location too. A 23K motor is barely broken in. Far too young to require a total rebuild.
Old 09-14-2005, 08:34 AM
  #28  
TECH Veteran
 
robertbartsch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Hartsdale, NY
Posts: 4,055
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

I don't think it has been established that the cam has walked..... For all we know, it could be the main crank bearings
Old 09-14-2005, 08:49 AM
  #29  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
 
GuitsBoy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 6,249
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

Heres the deal. I threw a DTC P0343 which is High Output from the Cam position sensor. I've been told by many that this usually means that the cam has walked backwards because the three cam bolts have become loose.
It was a good possibility the cam had walked.
WHen I pulled the motor apart last night I found that all three Cam bolts were VERY loose (loc-tite was used).
Now its a certainty.

But to be fair, I guess it could be something unrelated like a main or rod bearing.
Old 09-14-2005, 09:28 AM
  #30  
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
 
Steel Chicken's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Castle Rock, CO
Posts: 597
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 99whitews6
Sorry Steel Chicken about being retarted. I was just in denial that this would happen to the motor so fast. WHen I pulled the motor apart last night I found that all three Cam bolts were VERY loose (loc-tite was used). Anyways, whats my best route as far as rebuild?
Thanks for the apology. Dont go jumping to conclusions though, you might not need a rebuild.
In order to make the best decision, you need all the facts. Before you starting planning on rebuilds and spending money, take it apart. See whats wrong with it first. You very well *might* get lucky and not need a rebuild. Or, as others have mentioned, it might not be the cam. Who knows? Check it out. Get the facts first, THEN make a decision, in that order.
Old 09-14-2005, 09:31 AM
  #31  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
 
vettenuts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Little Rhody
Posts: 8,092
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes on 10 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by 99whitews6
WHen I pulled the motor apart last night I found that all three Cam bolts were VERY loose (loc-tite was used). Anyways, whats my best route as far as rebuild?
This is disturbing, did you thoroughly clean the threads prior to using the Loctite?
Old 09-14-2005, 09:31 AM
  #32  
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
99whitews6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 907
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Sounds good. I have never determined status of Cam bearings or rod bearing by visual inspection so I will post pics once I tear the motor apart/
Old 09-14-2005, 09:42 AM
  #33  
TECH Veteran
 
robertbartsch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Hartsdale, NY
Posts: 4,055
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

If I was doing this in my driveway, I would take the heads off and pull the short block out from the top.

Most here will argue that dropping it from the bottom is easier but I think that assumes you have a lift...
Old 09-14-2005, 09:52 AM
  #34  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
 
GuitsBoy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 6,249
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by robertbartsch
If I was doing this in my driveway, I would take the heads off and pull the short block out from the top.

Most here will argue that dropping it from the bottom is easier but I think that assumes you have a lift...
Many folks use the engine hoist to lift the car off the motor by the radiator mount (chain under a 2x4 or something).

Pulling the car off the motor seems like it would just give you so much space to work with.
Old 09-14-2005, 09:59 AM
  #35  
TECH Veteran
 
robertbartsch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Hartsdale, NY
Posts: 4,055
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

I would love to see pictures of this.

I'm guesing you need to disconnect brake lines, power steering, K- member, and need a front end alignment when your done; right?

Do you drop both engine and tranny at the same time?
Old 09-14-2005, 11:48 AM
  #36  
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (2)
 
SporkLover's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: STL Metro Area
Posts: 501
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Robert.....check out this thread...

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/354351-how-remove-engine-bottom.html

There are some pics of the process in there..
Old 09-14-2005, 01:06 PM
  #37  
TECH Veteran
 
robertbartsch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Hartsdale, NY
Posts: 4,055
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Interesting narrative and pictures....

I notice the back wheels are on ramps.... why? ...those creepers must be super strong!
Old 09-14-2005, 02:42 PM
  #38  
TECH Regular
iTrader: (5)
 
72ChevelleConv.LS1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 419
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Steel Chicken Said it like it is, I wrench on lots of stuff and was state cert. for many years. if you don't like the truth than don't ask. If you knew what the copper was from, why post such a silly ???? you should just tightet the bolts up and go on your way. I can tell you that the only way to find the prob is to take the motor down till you find the wear. Lots of people will tell you how to get buy, but it WON'T FIX any thing. Sorry you didn't like him busting your chops, but he is the post that tells you what you should do. Old VS new? New is best. why pay me to do it twice whrn your worne out cheep fix blows up too. SORRY for the bad out look on the problem at hand but, you did ask and we did answear......



Quick Reply: Copper flakes in oil drain pan!



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:47 AM.