Copper flakes in oil drain pan!
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Gainesville, Denton TX
Originally Posted by robertbartsch
Brandon:
That blows; did your busted motor have mods - cam, heads, etc.? Were you using the stock lifters? I assume these were the cause right - or was it an after market cam whose scratchy lopes tore up the lifter rollers?
I'm mildly pissed about my cam sensor issue. If it is the cam reluctor "notched grove" that is now bad, I can safely assume that it has become this way as a result of a defective after market Comp cam. It has been in for 3 years now....
I have not noticed any metal shavings on my drain plug magnet or in the oil, however...
That blows; did your busted motor have mods - cam, heads, etc.? Were you using the stock lifters? I assume these were the cause right - or was it an after market cam whose scratchy lopes tore up the lifter rollers?
I'm mildly pissed about my cam sensor issue. If it is the cam reluctor "notched grove" that is now bad, I can safely assume that it has become this way as a result of a defective after market Comp cam. It has been in for 3 years now....
I have not noticed any metal shavings on my drain plug magnet or in the oil, however...
fms pushrods
cam install at 55k, motor go byebye at 69xxx
I'm thinking more along the lines of the lifters went south and then ate the cam up.
I think maybe 1 lifter was good looking, the rest were shot. The cam only has 3 lobes damaged, one with around an 1/8" lip on it...
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
From: El Paso TX
Originally Posted by 99whitews6
So, if I tighten the bolts and put the engine back together. Change the oil and never see copper flakes in the oil again it is still going to fall apart? Bearing material has to go somewhere right?
TECH Veteran
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,055
Likes: 1
From: Hartsdale, NY
I bought new lifters, rockers, push rods, double springs, etc... for my H/c mods...
I guess there is no way to tell when hard parts start to tear up.... sort of like watching the news about a bad hurricane heading your way..... by this time it is too late, your house is already gone...
I guess there is no way to tell when hard parts start to tear up.... sort of like watching the news about a bad hurricane heading your way..... by this time it is too late, your house is already gone...
Originally Posted by marine02ss
That's premature bearing failure Watch out or engine failure could result in ignoring
it
it
In the end though you probably have a lot of work to do. The people who suggest that you tear down the motor to inspect and replace that cam bearing are giving you the best advice. I only offer the possibility that when you do get there, it may still be in reasonable condition. If you were going to take your chances and run the car anyway, I would still pull the cam and try and get a look inside witha bore scope. If thats not possible, at the very least drain your oil every couple days and look for more shavings. You can reuse the oil after you inspect it. Just be sure that you understand that youre taking your motor's life into your own hands as theres a very real possibility it may eventually go boom.
Alright, I figure I need to do this the right way. This will be an project for over the winter. What can I use from the engine to rebuild? I might as well just start from scratch and get it done right. Money wont be available for a month or so but I can start planning now. Block(car) only has 23K and the cam has only been in for 2K miles. When I put the cam in the motor also received new headers, pump, chain, and valve springs. What can I save? What should go?
Sorry Steel Chicken about being retarted. I was just in denial that this would happen to the motor so fast. WHen I pulled the motor apart last night I found that all three Cam bolts were VERY loose (loc-tite was used). Anyways, whats my best route as far as rebuild?
Sorry Steel Chicken about being retarted. I was just in denial that this would happen to the motor so fast. WHen I pulled the motor apart last night I found that all three Cam bolts were VERY loose (loc-tite was used). Anyways, whats my best route as far as rebuild?
****, at 23K I wouldnt touch a thing except the cam bearings. Take it apart, but make sure each component goes back in the same location. Piston one back into bore number one. You can reuse the rings as long as theyre in the same order and location too. A 23K motor is barely broken in. Far too young to require a total rebuild.
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Heres the deal. I threw a DTC P0343 which is High Output from the Cam position sensor. I've been told by many that this usually means that the cam has walked backwards because the three cam bolts have become loose.
WHen I pulled the motor apart last night I found that all three Cam bolts were VERY loose (loc-tite was used).
But to be fair, I guess it could be something unrelated like a main or rod bearing.
Originally Posted by 99whitews6
Sorry Steel Chicken about being retarted. I was just in denial that this would happen to the motor so fast. WHen I pulled the motor apart last night I found that all three Cam bolts were VERY loose (loc-tite was used). Anyways, whats my best route as far as rebuild?
In order to make the best decision, you need all the facts. Before you starting planning on rebuilds and spending money, take it apart. See whats wrong with it first. You very well *might* get lucky and not need a rebuild. Or, as others have mentioned, it might not be the cam. Who knows? Check it out. Get the facts first, THEN make a decision, in that order.
Originally Posted by 99whitews6
WHen I pulled the motor apart last night I found that all three Cam bolts were VERY loose (loc-tite was used). Anyways, whats my best route as far as rebuild?
TECH Veteran
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,055
Likes: 1
From: Hartsdale, NY
If I was doing this in my driveway, I would take the heads off and pull the short block out from the top.
Most here will argue that dropping it from the bottom is easier but I think that assumes you have a lift...
Most here will argue that dropping it from the bottom is easier but I think that assumes you have a lift...
Originally Posted by robertbartsch
If I was doing this in my driveway, I would take the heads off and pull the short block out from the top.
Most here will argue that dropping it from the bottom is easier but I think that assumes you have a lift...
Most here will argue that dropping it from the bottom is easier but I think that assumes you have a lift...
Pulling the car off the motor seems like it would just give you so much space to work with.
TECH Veteran
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,055
Likes: 1
From: Hartsdale, NY
I would love to see pictures of this.
I'm guesing you need to disconnect brake lines, power steering, K- member, and need a front end alignment when your done; right?
Do you drop both engine and tranny at the same time?
I'm guesing you need to disconnect brake lines, power steering, K- member, and need a front end alignment when your done; right?
Do you drop both engine and tranny at the same time?
Robert.....check out this thread...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/354351-how-remove-engine-bottom.html
There are some pics of the process in there..
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/354351-how-remove-engine-bottom.html
There are some pics of the process in there..
Steel Chicken Said it like it is, I wrench on lots of stuff and was state cert. for many years. if you don't like the truth than don't ask. If you knew what the copper was from, why post such a silly ???? you should just tightet the bolts up and go on your way. I can tell you that the only way to find the prob is to take the motor down till you find the wear. Lots of people will tell you how to get buy, but it WON'T FIX any thing. Sorry you didn't like him busting your chops, but he is the post that tells you what you should do. Old VS new? New is best. why pay me to do it twice whrn your worne out cheep fix blows up too. SORRY for the bad out look on the problem at hand but, you did ask and we did answear......
