I saw this Cam online, wanted to know what everyone thought..its gunna run me like $200 shipped

Duration at .050 in. 219/228, Lift .525/.525

Its a LS1 Hot Cam...
I have a mostly stock 02 SS...eventually it wont be, im slowly buying parts..
it will be a daily driver...heads will probably remain stock...

im looking for a cam with some lope and nice performance gains..nothing crazy, just something you can hear and something that is enjoyable on the street, car does not see the track

THANKS

 

The Thunder Racing TR224 (224/224 @ .563/.563 112 or 114 LSA) is what most people on here recommend for daily drivers. Not many people like the Hot Cam series. When I buy a cam, the TR224 is what I will get. As far as the LSA goes, I haven't yet made my decision.

With long tube headers, a cat-back, and basic bolt-ons, I want to make as close to 400 rwhp as I can. The TR224 should just about get me there, I hope. With stock heads, the TR car did 398/388, I think.

However, the TR224 more than twice as expensive... about $400 before shipping.

http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...22&sid=88#P196

 

Thanks! APPRECIATE IT..
BY the way what is the LSA (dumb question i know)
Thanks
Erik

 

Lobe Separation Angle. The lower the LSA (numerically), the lower the power band will peak in RPM range (a good thing for daily drivers, in my opinion), but the lower the LSA, the choppier the idle will be, as I understand. I like choppy idles, so that’s a good thing to me.

If I’m wrong, I’m certain there will be a stampede to correct me.

Go to LS1howto.com and read the cam install guide. It has a thing on cams and what the numbers mean. Then, read the cam guide. It’s a sticky in this board, I think. You could read it and forget about the LS1howto.com thing, but the cam guide on this board has an awfully steep learning curve, and sometimes gets ahead of itself therefore loosing the reader in the process. I’m not knocking it, though, it’s the best cam guide around by far.

 

check this out by jrp
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/327734-cam-guide.html

 

I'd go with a FM13. It's bigger, but it drives like a smaller cam and will give you better numbers over the TR224.

 

I forgot to mention the F13. It will get nearly as many recommendations as the TR224.

TR224: Thunder Racing Custom Camshaft - 224/224 .563/.563 112 or 114 LSA 1700-6600 RPM Power Band. Excellent mid-range & high RPM power. $389.99

http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...22&sid=88#P196

F13: FMS Custom Grind Camshaft - 230"/232" .595"/.585" 112 or 114 LSA - aggressive profile with a 2500-6800 RPM range, rough idle. $389

http://www.futralmotorsports.com/fms....asp?pf=1&pg=5

EDIT: My Macencrap at work hates this forum.

 

Heat the TR224 that thing sound aggresive, and mean. Just pick one of the of those and you should be good.

 

Before you start just buying a cam, be sure you have all the other bolt ons first.

You should have:

Long Tube Headers
Cat Back Exhaust or True Duals
LS6 intake

With the cam you also need to upgrade your valve springs (Comp918's should do for the size cam you're looking at) and hardened pushrods, both of which are usually availabe as a package deal for the cam from all the vendors like Thunder Racing, Futral Motorsports and Texas Speed & Performance. You should also purchase a gasket kit just to be sure you have all the gaskets for the cam install.

I was like you and figured, lets just throw a cam in there....well, there was a lot I had yet to learn, and I bought a lot of parts and put a lot of time into researching to find the parts that best suited my needs for my car.

After all that, the car is now finally pretty much where I wanted it.....7 months ago It still has some tuning issues, but I am gonna have that taken care off sooner or later. I am also not quite happy with my dyno numbers, but many factors contributed to those.

Not to discourage you, but if you start out the way I did, with just a lid and catback, you have a lot of money going into other people's pockets and quite a few issues to content with until it's all said and done. Just as an example....

Stainless Works Longtube headers with Y-pipe: 1320.00
LS6 Intake: 460.00
Complete Cam package with all the gaskets, the cam, push rods, valve springs, ported oil pump, plugs, plug wires etc. etc....: 1300.00
Labor: 1200.00 (that's for installing everything, the whole cam business, the headers, and the LS6 intake, and a few suspension mods)
Misc. Items: 400.00
Ported Throttlebody: 130.00

The list goes on, and I think I could write a book about the whole thing.

I just hope that a final tuning will bring things to an end.

By the way, I have the TR224 with the 112 LSA. I wanted the choppier idle as well, and I am glad that I went with the 112, it actually sounds tamer than I expected, so if you want to hear the cam, the 114 may not be for you. Also, a 112 LSA lowers your powerband a few hundred rpm which is nice to have, since not everyone wants to rev the **** out of their engine. If, however, you have to deal with emissions, then the 114 is the way to go.

Good luck man....and keep coming back for more questions, the guys here know their stuff!

And don't forget to read JRP's cam guide which is a sticky here in this forum.

Manny

 

Dam guys thanks!!! Mannyz28, we've spoken before and again THANKS! always helpful...
I'll keep everyone in touch

I think I'll go with the TR224, i want to support Thunder Racing..especially after their damage sustained by Katrina...!!!Nothing against any other sponsor of course!!!! and ill go with the 112 LSA for that LOPEY sound! if ima speand somewhere in the $1000's ima hear that sucker haha

THANKS!

 

if you want a cam for 200 bux ill sell you my T1 for that much as soon as I get it out the car. Its a 221/221.

 

Oh damn....I gave you that sermon before? LOL....sorry man!

 

many cams are better than the hotcam. The TR224 would be comparable in the sense its not huge, but sounds mean.

 

 

go to www.ls1howto.com and read their cam swap guide. You'll have ALL your questions anwsered by that.

 

so is my F10 114 thats for sale a 228/228 114. its also a great daily driver cam, but supporting mods is a must!!

 

LPE has a grind like the old MTI C1 aka "Hammer Cam" for $250.
GT2-5 222/222 .566/.566 112
A bonus is that it can run ls2/z06 spings that you can pick up for under $60 +shipping from SDPC. Use your stock retainers, get some hardened pushrods and you now have a cam kit for the price of a TR cam.

That or watch for a used cam for sale.

If you're unfamiliar w/cams, something you may want to check out is spring life with the more agressive lobes.

 

Spring life was a main determining factor in my purchase of the Hotcam. Alot of people hate on the hotcam, but it has price and spring life on it's side. That LPE cam is interesting.

 

People like to hate on small cams, but I've seen some smaller cams (B1, T1) put out numbers that I've seen from larger cams and yet not have to spin the engine like they do. Plus they're easier on valve train.
Not every car repsonds well to a big cam, and not everyone wants a big cam.

It is always in the set up.

 

I currently am selling a TR220 ( 220 220 .553 .553 @112+4) i'll let it go for $175.00 Shipped...

you could not dream a better deal than that... PM me if interested.. It's a damn good cam!!

I am currently running the RPM4 232 236 .595 .601 @114+2...

Good luck..