Car won't start after H/C swap!! :(
#21
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The heads are unmilled. I called Texas Speed since I purchased the cam from them, and they sell those heads... let them know I was using Cometic .040 head gaskets. They said 7.400" pushrods were perfect length. The motor does turn over fine. Even by hand.
I have OBDII software on my laptop and hooked it up at lunch today. The only code thrown was for the EGR system I eliminated. No other codes at all? Struck me as odd.
I have to pull the intake off anyway to tap out that one broken manifold bolt (right in the front thankfully, easy to access). So I'll triple check everything behind there. I may even pull the valve covers to watch the valve train move.
I have OBDII software on my laptop and hooked it up at lunch today. The only code thrown was for the EGR system I eliminated. No other codes at all? Struck me as odd.
I have to pull the intake off anyway to tap out that one broken manifold bolt (right in the front thankfully, easy to access). So I'll triple check everything behind there. I may even pull the valve covers to watch the valve train move.
#22
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just a thought..but did you foul the plugs. I've putting my 3rd set in tomorrow. I haven't tuned my car yet and only started it a couple of times so far. If I'm not careful and get it started the first time or two it will foul the plugs. But I know this is a result of not tuning my car yet. It won't be long before I take it to get that problem solved with some tuning!! It's still running off of another tune that was for my previous combo. Pull the plugs and see what they look like. Put in some new plugs and give it a shot. Since you did say you smell a lot of fuel when starting it up. Plugs aren't that expensive for some NGK's. Hope this helps...I'm just speaking from my experience.
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Originally Posted by Licken2
The heads are unmilled. I called Texas Speed since I purchased the cam from them, and they sell those heads... let them know I was using Cometic .040 head gaskets. They said 7.400" pushrods were perfect length. The motor does turn over fine. Even by hand.
I have OBDII software on my laptop and hooked it up at lunch today. The only code thrown was for the EGR system I eliminated. No other codes at all? Struck me as odd.
I have to pull the intake off anyway to tap out that one broken manifold bolt (right in the front thankfully, easy to access). So I'll triple check everything behind there. I may even pull the valve covers to watch the valve train move.
I have OBDII software on my laptop and hooked it up at lunch today. The only code thrown was for the EGR system I eliminated. No other codes at all? Struck me as odd.
I have to pull the intake off anyway to tap out that one broken manifold bolt (right in the front thankfully, easy to access). So I'll triple check everything behind there. I may even pull the valve covers to watch the valve train move.
Your setup is very similar to the one I just finished installing today with 7.4s.
TEA stage 1.5 5.3 heads unmilled
cometic .040 gasket
chromoly 7.4 pushrods
220/224 .581 lift 114lsa +2
Fortunately, mine started right up.
#24
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Well, I've taken a nap... and got some friends involved that know what they're doing with motors. They're willing to bet money on the fact that somehow the timing is off. So I'm going to pull the front of the motor apart... and double check that crank gear. It's a Rollermaster double roller timing set and has several keyways... I may have set it in there wrong. So here's to another several hours of work.... but hey, at least it's free labor.
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Originally Posted by Licken2
Well, I've taken a nap... and got some friends involved that know what they're doing with motors. They're willing to bet money on the fact that somehow the timing is off. So I'm going to pull the front of the motor apart... and double check that crank gear. It's a Rollermaster double roller timing set and has several keyways... I may have set it in there wrong. So here's to another several hours of work.... but hey, at least it's free labor.
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Yeah, the dots were definitely lined up on the new double roller timing set. However, I didn't even notice if they were dot-to-dot when I removed the stock set, which sources tell me they should have been... which would put piston #1 at top dead center when I reinstalled everything. At least now I have a goal for the weekend. Get that all pulled apart and back together. But damn I am not looking forward to removing and reinstalling that oil pump. Ugh.
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We checked for spark by pulling a wire and holding it near the plug. Spark did arc. No fuses have been pulled at all.... at this point, I hope if it is indeed the timing being out of whack... that no valves are bent.
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At this point I'm almost 100% sure I made a mistake in installing the double roller crank gear. The stock gear can only go on one way, and when the dots are lined up it's definitely correct. The double roller gear has many different keyways for adjustment purposes. So, since I have no idea if the #1 piston was at TDC, and didn't even know to check (since the walk-thru used a single timing chain set, like stock)... I'm fairly certain that's where my error lies. I just hope there aren't any valves bent. I'll find out today.
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Originally Posted by Licken2
At this point I'm almost 100% sure I made a mistake in installing the double roller crank gear. The stock gear can only go on one way, and when the dots are lined up it's definitely correct. The double roller gear has many different keyways for adjustment purposes. So, since I have no idea if the #1 piston was at TDC, and didn't even know to check (since the walk-thru used a single timing chain set, like stock)... I'm fairly certain that's where my error lies. I just hope there aren't any valves bent. I'll find out today.
Even if you installed the lower gear wrong, it would only be off by 4 degrees one way or the other - it still should start. When did the finger test, it sounded like you had compression. the plugs should show signs of gas, if not I would inject some gas directly into the intake, you don't need much, so don't flood the engine.
Bill
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I just wanted to post an update for anyone who may be following this thread.
Tore the front of the engine down to the timing gear - only took 90 minutes tops this time around. Guess something can be said for a little experience & air tools. At any rate, turns out I managed to install the Rollermaster timing set approx 180 degrees off. It was my own fault for not having the factory gears lined up dot-to-dot before removing them, which would have had #1 at TDC. The new crank gear had 9 keyways instea of 1 like the factory does. So my bad. Lesson learned. So, I tried to crank the motor by hand and it got stuck about 90% through the motion. Pulled the valve covers & rockers on both sides - sure enough, valves are bent all to hell. Hopefully there's no major damage to the pistons. I'll know more tomorrow when I have the heads back off. They'll go into the machine shop Monday for new valves & whatever else is necessary.
So, the lesson learned here is..... this install is NOT hard. Not even difficult. Just make certain that the #1 piston is at top dead center BEFORE reinstalling a new timing set that has multiple keyways. Way too easy to screw it up if not. It's my own fault... but it's one of those things I'll never forget. Neither will be my savings account.
She'll be back and better than new within a couple of weeks... and if the pistons need replaced, forged ones will be going in. So... either way, something good will come from all of this. Experience is costly sometimes.
Tore the front of the engine down to the timing gear - only took 90 minutes tops this time around. Guess something can be said for a little experience & air tools. At any rate, turns out I managed to install the Rollermaster timing set approx 180 degrees off. It was my own fault for not having the factory gears lined up dot-to-dot before removing them, which would have had #1 at TDC. The new crank gear had 9 keyways instea of 1 like the factory does. So my bad. Lesson learned. So, I tried to crank the motor by hand and it got stuck about 90% through the motion. Pulled the valve covers & rockers on both sides - sure enough, valves are bent all to hell. Hopefully there's no major damage to the pistons. I'll know more tomorrow when I have the heads back off. They'll go into the machine shop Monday for new valves & whatever else is necessary.
So, the lesson learned here is..... this install is NOT hard. Not even difficult. Just make certain that the #1 piston is at top dead center BEFORE reinstalling a new timing set that has multiple keyways. Way too easy to screw it up if not. It's my own fault... but it's one of those things I'll never forget. Neither will be my savings account.
She'll be back and better than new within a couple of weeks... and if the pistons need replaced, forged ones will be going in. So... either way, something good will come from all of this. Experience is costly sometimes.
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Unfortunately I found the problem. The intake valves are all bent. #7 broke off & punched through the piston. Piston shattering busted the water jacket. Short block will have to be replaced now. Along with some head work. Eeek.
I hope that damage the valve area on the head is repairable. Surely it is. Now it's time to get this engine pulled out of the car and see how long it takes to round up the money to fix this inconvenience.
And to think, this was all done by just turning it over with the starter. The engine never ran, not even for a second. It was ALL caused by me over looking the dot that designated 0 degrees on that Rollermaster set.
I hope that damage the valve area on the head is repairable. Surely it is. Now it's time to get this engine pulled out of the car and see how long it takes to round up the money to fix this inconvenience.
And to think, this was all done by just turning it over with the starter. The engine never ran, not even for a second. It was ALL caused by me over looking the dot that designated 0 degrees on that Rollermaster set.
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Im sorry to see things did not have a better outcome. I cant see how this happened if you turned the motor over by hand 1st. And all appeared good, how many revolutions did you turn the crank, before you went to the starter?
Well it looks to be a costly mistake, but look at it this way you can get a forged short block and have a excellent platform to build on with your 205,s.
Well it looks to be a costly mistake, but look at it this way you can get a forged short block and have a excellent platform to build on with your 205,s.