Full-Force

iTrader: (11)

that cam even on a 114 should be noticeable that its not stock

too long pushrod holding the valves open could be it but it should idle like ***** and carry on like crazy from exhaust popping back up through the intake

i wouldnt rule out fuel problem like mentioned earlier about the injectors

Red99C5

Even a stock cam wouldn't drop power like that. And if the cam was off one tooth, the motor would be back firing. Looking at the dips below 5400, I would say that is either timing retard by the knock sensor because yoou are getting detonation, or a really funky fuel map. But the way it drops off suddenly after 5400 is fuel. The motor isn't just going to quit breathing air all the sudden like that. I bet if you look at the A/F ratio, you would see a lean condition. Plus with the motor leaning out, the computer is going to retard the timing to keep detonation from happening. Did you tune this on a Dyno with a wide band A/F meter? If not, then that is your problem.
Could it be that your tuner subtracted instead of added to the injector flow at WOT? Also check your fuel pressure on the dyno just to rule that out.

jasonsny

This set-up should yeild much better results. Did you get the Air/Fuel ratio, wide band o2 on the dyno? My guess is that it's pig-rich and dumping too much fuel.

Red99C5

Give us an update and let us know what you find out. I am curious.

Kraest

iTrader: (3)

Like it was said before... the cam is too far advanced.
Advancing the cam makes the horsepower peak earlier. In this case, the cam is advanced too far probably because they degreed the cam, like you said.

The first thing you need to do is reinstall dot to dot then check everything else.

Mike

DavidNJ

Which cam? 226/228/114 could be very different depending on the grind. Without an intake and TB, from other posted results, you were probably looking at low 400s. So you are off about 10%.

Did you buy the parts new?

Brak Attack

iTrader: (10)

So did you find anything out? I have not recieved a PM back from you so you must be tinkering with the car. My buddy just did a head and cam swap with pretty much the same problem (no power). He thought the lifter preload was too high and he was dead on. He did a compression test and was getting 140's, he lessened the preload and got 210's afterwards. He has yet to redyno the car but I will post his before and after numbers when he does. Previous RWHP # was 340, I can't remember the TQ. Hope this helps you out.

KingWalrus

Pardon my stupidity, but how do you go about checking/adjusting lifter preload on a LSx? I wasn't even aware that it was adjustable...

bigdsz

iTrader: (1)

What kind of dyno was it, are its numbers equivalent to a Dynojet? You also need to check fuel pressure. it may be dropping off forcing you into a lean condition. Peaking at 5,400 rpm if other things check out ok means you are at least 6*+ advanced too much. On a Dynojet that combo should be putting out around 430 rwhp.

Brak Attack

iTrader: (10)

You really should never have to worry about preload if you have unmilled heads, stock rockers and stock length pushrods. In that case all you should have to do is torque the rockers to 22ft/lbs. In my friends case he was using heads that were milled .016 with stock length pushrods. He had too much preload on the lifters causing the valves to bleed off compression. He took out a 1/2 turn on the rockers and did a second compression test and he then had 210 instead of the 140 he had before the adjustment. If I remember correctly a 1/4 turn on the rocker after zero lash should equal .010 - .012 preload on the lifter. Sorry for the novel.