U want stealth
Comp has a 212-218 558-563 Cam designed for the LS6 with a 115LSA
It pulls very well up to 6500+,A few guys have installed it with great results...

 

You can use a smaller duration cam, but narrow the LSA a bit over what some folks are doing IMHO. Some folks may feel this will give you too much lope.

You can tune any lope out of the car at idle pretty easily. The main thing is by narrowing the LSA you can fatten up the midrange power.

Some folks may feel that the car peaks to early, but keep in mind that the stock LS6 manifold/tb is out of power at around 6200-6400, and peak tq is around 4800. You can spin a motor to 6500-6700 with a small cam with a wide LSA. It shows peak numbers, but I'm just saying it depends on what your goals are as for how to get where you want... If average peak power is fatter, but peak is down just a bit, which one is going to make you faster.

I'm not saying the CheaTR cam or the Stealth II, or any of those are bad cams. Patrick and others have done very good, and very extensive testing of these designs. The results are all over, and worth looking at. Like I said, it just depends on your goals.

 

You still have cats so your exhaust is not totally free flowing so I would still lean toward a regular split. The specs on the second cam is maybe more in line with what you want. In fact, you could go a little bigger by cutting the LSA to 114 or 113, or add 2 degrees on the intake and cut the LSA to 114. I'm just trying to get you something that "will maintain the awesome drivability the car has now"

 

Thats what I did as my exhaust flow isnt that great (shorties and an X w/Stock catback) I went w/ Comp 214-222 559-566 115+4...This way it wont peak real high (6100)..I make decent lowend but the midrange is sick and it pulls hard to 6300,Idles like a stock cam.....

 

J-Rod is right on the money (as usual). The stealth cam choice depends heavily on your mods. When designing the CheaTR cam, Thunder Racing built it around cars running factory exhaust manifolds and cats. Because log manifolds and cats are pretty darn restrictive, it was necessary to open the exhaust valve earlier and hold it open longer to give it plenty of time to evacuate spent exhaust. Next, the intake valve closing was chosen to give the best all around peak power and torque under the curve. When it was all said and done, the cam wound up having a fairly wide LSA and a wide split between intake and exhaust. But keep in mind, the valve events were chosen FIRST and the specs of the cam were what they were.

If you were running a free flowing exhaust with long tube headers, but still wanted stealth, you would want to do the following:
Keep the overlap at -7 degrees of overlap or less (for stealth idle)
Open the exhaust a little later (since you have better exhaust)
Close the exhaust a little sooner (since you have better exhaust)
Keep the IVC between 43-44 degrees ABDC (for good all around power)
Increase intake duration slightly (because you can)

With all that in mind, here's what a stealth cam with headers might look like:
___________________________________________ 0.006 __ 0.050 __ 0.200
Intake Duration - ID_______________________ 269 __ 220 __ 143 3720 Lobe
Exhaust Duration - ED______________________ 275 __ 226 __ 147 3723 Lobe
Lobe Center Angle - LCA (also known as LSA) 115 __ 115 __ 115
Intake Centerline - ICL____________________ 113 __ 113 __ 113


Intake Valve opens - IVO___________________ 21.5 __ -3 __ -41.5 BTDC (- indicates ATDC)
Intake Valve closes - IVC__________________ 67.5 __ 43 __ 4.5 ABDC
Exhaust Valve Opens - EVO__________________ 74.5 __ 50 __ 10.5 BBDC
Exhaust Valve Closes - EVC_________________ 20.5 __ -4 __ -43.5 ATDC (- indicates BTDC)
Exhaust Centerline - ECL___________________ 117 __ 117 __ 117
Overlap____________________________________ 42 __ -7 __ -85 degrees

 

Ok, thanks for all the great info guys but now I think I am even more confused as to which to go with now that JS threw comp cams in the mix.

So...let me ask this...which one SHOULD give me the best overall power increase (not just peak)and still be relatively stealth.

Again, its an 01 Z06 and the only mods will be Dynatech supermaxx (LT's + their X-pipe & hi-flo cats) + Halltech Stinger. I'd like to see at least 390rwhp peak & still have a fat power band.

Thanks all!
Kevin

 

You should see that with your stock cam.
There is also the LPE-GT2-3
207 / 220 .571" / .578" 118.5 CL

400rwhp easily atainable with this cam.

 

Well remember the 01 Z06 cam is a little less agressive than the 02+ 01 Z06 usually dyno around 340rwhp bone stock. Figure Supermaxx + halltech will add probably 30-35rwhp which would put me around 370-375. But you are right 390 might be expecting too little...I really would like to hit 400 or more

 

You've already been given the recommendation in post #25. It's a Comp Cam grind with XE-R lobes. 220/226, .581/.585 115LSA, 113ICL. Part numbers for each lobe are given as well. Call Comp or your favorite Comp dealer and have it ground for you.

 

Patrick, I very much appreciate all the effort you put into post #25, but unfortunately I don't know how to interpret 50% of it. I would have never figured those were the specs. So with my car and those mods you think thats the best choice, sounds good. What kinda power would you guess.

PS-Just remember the exhaust still is relatively free flowing. Only restrictive thing is cats but they are aftermarket cats. The stock Ti Z06 catback is known to flow really well.

Thanks again!!
Kevin

 

I took all of your exact mods into account when I cam up with the specs. If you were running LG long tubes with no cats, the cam choice would have been different still. But since you are looking for stealth and the most power possible, this is what I came up with. You should make 410 rwhp with your mods and tuning.

 

And thats without ported TB and UD pulley, right? Cool, thanks.

 

That 220-226 Patrick spec'd out looks pretty tastey..He helped me in deciding on my 214-222 as I'm running shorties and didnt want lope...I'll be happy with 390RW threw my A4 w/AFR's/LSX/90 and my whimpy little 214

 

JS
Your cam looks like an excellent choice for a relatively heavy A4 vehicle. Do you have any 1/4 mile numbers? I bet they would be impressive.

I agree, that cam Patrick G spec'd looks to be a perfect cam for a Z06. Strong early mid-range that pulls hard to redline. It may not win every dyno contest, but would be a winner at the track.

I want to see somebody run a 215-220 cam on a 108-110 lsa. This type of cam should be tuneable right?

 

That would be a juicy street cam with lots of mid-range punch, but it may have a little too much of a beat to be "stealth", LOL. You would have to install the intake centerline pretty far retarded to keep the motor from peaking too early.

 

Just out of curiosity Mr G what cam would you have recomended for my setup? Willing to have a little lope but stock 01 Z06 driving charactoristics? While I know what some of the specs mean I'm still a dumbass when it comes to the overall picture.. Same with tuning I know what it all means but the whole thing hasn't quite "clicked." Anyways I researched my choice quite extensively and was actually torn because the reverse split I had in my WS6 (232/230 595/590 114) while it put down impressive numbers was very and I mean very "peaky." So going with the Stealth II was hard but after reviewing dyno sheets and other setups chose it. Although I'm happy with it, I had the same goals as the original poster and made them easily. The strip is a different story but thats a problem with me getting the power to the ground

Just curious what someone with more experience picking camshafts would have chosen.

Thanks!

Bobby

 

A 214/220 108 would have as much overlap at .05 as a 224/224 112 and probably even more at .006 if the ramps are slower than XE-R and similar lobes. A 216/220 111 might be something interesting for the street. About the same overlap as 220/220 112 so it could be made to idle pretty easy, but with a hair more midrange.

 

That's pretty similar to what I suggested. Just curious, why not use the 219 LSK lobe and pick up the extra intake area under the curve?

 

The LSK lobes require expensive Comp 921 springs (with lots of spring pressure) and they tend to make more valvetrain noise than XE-R lobes with 918 springs or conventional duals. If the thread wasn't about stealth, then I might be more inclined to recommend using the LSK lobes.

But for all-around performance, the LSK lobes are tough to beat...let's just keep that our little secret though.

 

U guys have me thinking my little 214-222 559-566 115+4 is pretty good afterall
I'm glad I went with the little cam now