AFR 224/228 Cam Installed
I dynoed at 415.7RWHP 383.7RWT. Although I didnt peak much higher, the torque curve is flat and the power under the curve is excellent! That is exactly what I wanted out of my car.
Driveability is still excellent; no bucking, no surging, and I can still cruise as low as 1000rpm without issues. You cannot feel any shake or lope inside the car. To me, details like that is important. At WOT this car is an animal, very easy to go sideways if your not careful. I have to re-learn the limits of this car all over again but its alot of fun to drive. Car sounds very nice too when you get on it.
Anyway, its all about combination when doing H/C setups and what you want out of your ride so choose your parts wisely if your going to go N/A
Heres a small vid clip of my car at idle...
AFR cam 224/228
But just curious, what did you dyno with the Stealth? was it S1 or S2?
Also what is your SCR? and what gaskets/ p-rods did you use? (for the 224/228)
Hmmm that S1 was a good cam afterall.
You wouldn't happen to be able to overlay the two on a graph ?
The reason I'm saying this is you know S1 is 115 with 0 advance
Had you just advanced your S1 +2 you would have got the same results.
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Hmmm that S1 was a good cam afterall.
You wouldn't happen to be able to overlay the two on a graph ?
I'd like to see that too. The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
The afr's (heads) ended up on my car, WS6 in sig, The new TEA 1.5's ended up on her car with the AFR cam, it made good power, 430 locked, with all the goodies.
Hours of dyno tune with complete attention to detail.
if copied one should make at least within 40hp of that setup. Like 440 rwhp should be obtainable.
I've use some of his techniques (still do) and I squeezed Hps out of where poeple said it was impossible. How about 404rwhp from a 224/220 cam, A4, 3200 stall (locked).
It is not just A+B = 480
I dynoed at 415.7RWHP 383.7RWT. Although I didnt peak much higher, the torque curve is flat and the power under the curve is excellent! That is exactly what I wanted out of my car.
Driveability is still excellent; no bucking, no surging, and I can still cruise as low as 1000rpm without issues. You cannot feel any shake or lope inside the car. To me, details like that is important. At WOT this car is an animal, very easy to go sideways if your not careful. I have to re-learn the limits of this car all over again but its alot of fun to drive. Car sounds very nice too when you get on it.
Anyway, its all about combination when doing H/C setups and what you want out of your ride so choose your parts wisely if your going to go N/A
Heres a small vid clip of my car at idle...
AFR cam 224/228
Can you provide more details on the rest of your setup? CC of chambers, intake, TB, headers, gears, type of trans, etc?
ECS did the AFR heads and 224/228 581-588 114+1 cam on my car. With the stock (LS6) intake, stock TB and 4.10 gears it put down 444 rwhp and 411 rwtq on their dyno.
It backs those numbers up at the track running 124mph in the ¼ without speed shifting.
Hmmm that S1 was a good cam afterall.
You wouldn't happen to be able to overlay the two on a graph ?
The reason I'm saying this is you know S1 is 115 with 0 advance
Had you just advanced your S1 +2 you would have got the same results.
Can you provide more details on the rest of your setup? CC of chambers, intake, TB, headers, gears, type of trans, etc?
ECS did the AFR heads and 224/228 581-588 114+1 cam on my car. With the stock (LS6) intake, stock TB and 4.10 gears it put down 444 rwhp and 411 rwtq on their dyno.
It backs those numbers up at the track running 124mph in the ¼ without speed shifting.
this car kicks ***! With a Futral FM11 on STOCK heads I did 401 hp and 395 tq.
-Rick


