Where to get the longer crank bolt for pully install?
Where to get the longer crank bolt for pully install? I'm finishing up my cam install and read in the instructions you need a longer crank pully to reinstall the pully. 
Where can I get one?
Where can I get one? a longer bolt isn't necessary. I've done 2 installs using the regular length bolts. All you have to do is set the pully on the crank, and then lightly tap the pulley onto the crank until the threads on the bolt will thread. Then you just tighten the bolt to pull the pulley on the rest of the way. Having a longer bolt would just mean you don't have to tap the pulley on so far before the bolt will thread.
Pulling the pulley off is where the longer bolt would be come a HUGE help b/c you wouldn't have to readjust the pulley puller time and time again until you could get it off.
Pulling the pulley off is where the longer bolt would be come a HUGE help b/c you wouldn't have to readjust the pulley puller time and time again until you could get it off.
TECH Resident
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 905
Likes: 0
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/1481-crank-pulley-removal-tip.html
"The bolt you need is a 16mm / 2.0 thread pitch and 120mm in length (the head of this bolt is 24mm). This bolt can be purchased from NAPA as P/N 2801-225. Price is $5.39."
-somebody
"The bolt you need is a 16mm / 2.0 thread pitch and 120mm in length (the head of this bolt is 24mm). This bolt can be purchased from NAPA as P/N 2801-225. Price is $5.39."
-somebody
Here is a new setup I just made should do the trick. Have one to sell, PM if intrested.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65...iontool004.jpg
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3621174
Should beable to find it at a Specialty Hardware-fastner dealer ect.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65...iontool004.jpg
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3621174
Should beable to find it at a Specialty Hardware-fastner dealer ect.
Last edited by 618HAWK; Oct 10, 2005 at 10:31 PM.
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I didn't use a longer bolt for my install. I got my little propane torch and heated up the center of the pulley for about 3-4 minutes, got the wife's oven mits 
and slid the pulley onto the crank snout. It went on like butter about 80% of the way. Then just used the old crank bolt to get the last 20% and stretch the new bolt in. Took all of 10 minutes to do it.
and slid the pulley onto the crank snout. It went on like butter about 80% of the way. Then just used the old crank bolt to get the last 20% and stretch the new bolt in. Took all of 10 minutes to do it.
Originally Posted by jmm98LS1
I didn't use a longer bolt for my install. I got my little propane torch and heated up the center of the pulley for about 3-4 minutes, got the wife's oven mits and slid the pulley onto the crank snout. It went on like butter about 80% of the way. Then just used the old crank bolt to get the last 20% and stretch the new bolt in. Took all of 10 minutes to do it.
and slid the pulley onto the crank snout. It went on like butter about 80% of the way. Then just used the old crank bolt to get the last 20% and stretch the new bolt in. Took all of 10 minutes to do it.
Originally Posted by vettenuts
McMaster-Carr. Although I actually ordered threaded rod and some nuts and made my own installation press.
We have their catalog at work. I'll try them tomorrow. This bolt is the only thing holding me up.
Originally Posted by davered00ss
We have their catalog at work. I'll try them tomorrow. This bolt is the only thing holding me up.
Originally Posted by Somebody09
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1481
"The bolt you need is a 16mm / 2.0 thread pitch and 120mm in length (the head of this bolt is 24mm). This bolt can be purchased from NAPA as P/N 2801-225. Price is $5.39."
-somebody
"The bolt you need is a 16mm / 2.0 thread pitch and 120mm in length (the head of this bolt is 24mm). This bolt can be purchased from NAPA as P/N 2801-225. Price is $5.39."
-somebody
Originally Posted by 618HAWK
I would be a bit apprehensive doing it that way, unaware what the excessive heat would due to the internal bondings, unless it is a solid piece. And then applying that excessive heat to the lip surface of the crank seal.
The part of the pulley that heat is applied to is a solid piece, so no problems there. I've done two pullies this way, one about 6mo ago and one a year ago. Both see pretty "spirited" driving and haven't had any problems. To each his own I guess.
Originally Posted by vettenuts
McMaster-Carr. Although I actually ordered threaded rod and some nuts and made my own installation press.
http://www.mcmaster.com/
- I ordered a piece of 16 x 2.0 threaded rod from ENCO .
- Bought a bunch of washers and two nuts from Home Depot
- Cut the rod to about 18'' and put the washers and nuts on the rod
- Put the pulley on and screwed the rod into the crank
- Then turned the bottom nut until the pulley was seated.
This is a lot easier and puts a lot less stress on the threads of the crank. I also lubed the nut with some oil too.
- Bought a bunch of washers and two nuts from Home Depot
- Cut the rod to about 18'' and put the washers and nuts on the rod
- Put the pulley on and screwed the rod into the crank
- Then turned the bottom nut until the pulley was seated.
This is a lot easier and puts a lot less stress on the threads of the crank. I also lubed the nut with some oil too.
I just bought mine a few days ago here:
http://www.boltdepot.com/product.asp...&selected=6298
120mm worked great!
http://www.boltdepot.com/product.asp...&selected=6298
120mm worked great!
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 252
Likes: 0
From: PA
Go to Harbor Freight and buy a coil spring compressor. You will get 2 of the correct sized bolts with it. Then, change your springs too 
I couldn't get a bolt anywhere, luckly I had one of these in my garage.
I couldn't get a bolt anywhere, luckly I had one of these in my garage.
