Does anyone have any information on this cam, dyno numbers, or sound bites. or does anyone have a someting similar to this cam. It has a 228/230 .571/.573 lift at 112 lsa. Cam shopping is not the easyest thing to do. Oh this is going into a stock displacement Ls1 with Ls6 mildly ported heads. Any input would help. I keep reading about F13/F14 and Trex's. I'm not too familar with any of these cams. Any help would be appreciated. I know this cam is supposed to be high rev. does that matter? Thank you guys.

 

02 Z06-all the boltons that exact cam 420/399 rwhp , 122mph trap speeds in 90 degree heat. Cam works friggin awesome-drives nice and makes gobs of power-go for it!

 

Where can I purchase the XR281HR?

 

Summit, Jegs-Ebay-anyone really-it's straight out of the comp catalogue.

 

This is the cam I am planning on gettin for my ride as well

 

I just wasn't sure about this cam, since I haven't read anything bout it yet. But it seems to best for what i'm looking for. NOt too Crazy but a little larger then the average. Thanks for your input. Keep in touch when put this cam in. let me know as i will let you know what becomes of the numbers.

 

This cam should be easier on valvetrain compaired to the XE-R higher lift versions. Good choice!

 

I have the XER281HR cam, 232/234 .595/.598 112, its very nice. made 375/364 80 degree air, stock ls1 intake, no other mods to the engine, mac's and hooker cb. Drives like stock on the hwy, and in the city. Look into it also if you haven't already.

 

I will tell you up-front the faster ramp rates of an XE-R cam will give you better idle and low rpm quality/power, compared to XE. Unless you specifically had to have it I would not use the XE lobe profile, but that is your choice. Also, if you have a factory exhaust system you will want more bias towards the exhaust lobe, to help scavenge the cylinders, maybe 228/232. I ran a F13 (112lsa+4) early this summer, great cam road racing cam. I knocked out 440/420 sae with it.

 

This is something that I would love to see proven. I bet if you take 2 cams, for example the mti C2 which is on XER lobes and the TR 224 which I beleive is on XE lobes with the same centerline and ICL say 114+4-they would make identical power. Everyone cuts down anyhting but XER lobes-but if you guys remember it wasn't too long ago that guys were making big power with C1's and B1's and running as fast as 10's with these tiny cams. Just look at the lobes comp has-they haven't been overly impressive as of yet? There are alot of cars out there making real good numbers with lazy lobes.

 

TR 224 are not XE lobes but in between XE and XE-R. They are proprietary lobes and came out a few months before Comp officialy released the XE-R.

 

So what exactly is the difference with the XE and XE-R lobe profile? I'm going to run long tube headers with a stock Z06 exhaust. I won't call that wide open but do you think that is enough to run a 230 exhaust? Thanks again for your input.

 

XE have a ramp rate of 53 and XE-R of 49
Cam motion usualy run 51 and 50
and TR falls in that margin too.

 

XE-R lobe ramps are more aggressive (in short). Are you running cats? If not then I will take a shot at it and say that 228/230 should be fine. If you ARE running cats I am going to say separate the intake and exhaust by 4, i.e. 228/232.

Tons of discussion on this subject in this thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/327734-cam-guide.html

I also recommend reading some of J-Rod's threads on cam tech:

Part II
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...&highlight=cam
Part III
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...&highlight=cam


ALL THAT being said, you have to tell us what your goals are. WOT, track only use or street use only, maybe a mix. I went for a balance between the two. For example, when I had the F13 in (with AFRs) it made a GREAT street package, tons of TQ (350ish at approx. 2500rpms). Next, I went to the cam in my sig. I made 450/415 with it, a real screamer wanted to REV to the ceiling. I have since added two degrees advance to that same cam to bring the power on sooner and I feel I have struck a balance between two extremes.

What I am saying in all this is you need to have solid goals before you start buying...

Good Luck,

 

SideStep is exactly right-set goals-it will save you time and money. I still think the 228/230 is a very nice cam-it made very good all around power and the car drove perfect after being tuned. It's right in the middle between the mild 224's and the crazy MS3's G5X3's and the F14-it's alla bout what you want. BTW this cam was a daily driver for me-with a tune it is very liveable-with AS stage 2.5 heads it made 447/407.

 

[/QUOTE]ALL THAT being said, you have to tell us what your goals are. WOT, track only use or street use only, maybe a mix. I went for a balance between the two. For example, when I had the F13 in (with AFRs) it made a GREAT street package, tons of TQ (350ish at approx. 2500rpms). Next, I went to the cam in my sig. I made 450/415 with it, a real screamer wanted to REV to the ceiling. I have since added two degrees advance to that same cam to bring the power on sooner and I feel I have struck a balance between two extremes.

What I am saying in all this is you need to have solid goals before you start buying...

Good Luck,
[/QUOTE]

Once again thanks for the help.
First i'm runing no cat's. so 230 should be fine.
Second I'm really leaning towards the best 1/4 mile time. It's a manual if that matters. I'm trying to reach high to mid 11's. (just like everyone else )

 

Thanks a lot. I'm still leaning towards this cam. I'm trying not to lose to much livealbility. Nice numbers on the dyno.

 

Well then if 1/4 mile track is your goal and you want that cam in particular go with a 114lsa (it will be easier to live with compared to the 112lsa) and as little advance as you can get away with (+1, +2). The less advance the later (and higher) the HP with come on, more advance does just the opposite (peak power is sooner and a little less).