WOT noise, How bad is it?
WOT noise, How bad is it? I have a 98 TA M6 with just exhaust and a lid and thermostat and a moderate tune, whenever I go for a WOT run around 5k rpm it starts to make some engine internal rattle is my assumption. It doesnt really sound like a engine mount or tranny mount gone loose it could be but I was wondering more internal what it could be. It kinda acts like if I keep my foot into it that it will rattle apart or blow. Which i wouldnt like to see.. I dont get it much WOT now for this reason more because I cant afford something to take a **** on me.. I dont even take it to my shift point anymore now I shift at 5k just to make sure, anybody have any useful suggestions or corrective actions to take ? Thanks.
Nick
Nick
ive been running 91 (highest pump gas in Denver, CO) with octane boost sometimes... as well as sometimes race gas at track... how could i troubleshoot to make sure it is or isnt detonation and if so how do i go about fixing this....sum help greatly appreciated TECHS.... thanks guys.
NICK
NICK
Trending Topics
it happens at WOT at and above 4k...thru 6k.....i dont even take it to 6 anymore i shift at beginning of 5 because im worried of cause more damage, from may be wrong... I was wondering if a catch can would help me out , I was thinking maybe I am detonating because of oil into the chamber. Not sure though, also what kind of fuel cleaner would be the best as well as maybe an oil stabilizer, I havnt done a leakdown or compression test yet. But since Ive gotten the car I was wondering If some of my rings were bad because I also get blue smoke at WOT as well... Im not too sure on the problems that lie in my motor, so any assitance or direction would be greatly appreciated. thanks...
Nick
Nick
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Originally Posted by dub.ya.es.SICK
it happens at WOT at and above 4k...thru 6k.....i dont even take it to 6 anymore i shift at beginning of 5 because im worried of cause more damage, from may be wrong... I was wondering if a catch can would help me out , I was thinking maybe I am detonating because of oil into the chamber. Not sure though, also what kind of fuel cleaner would be the best as well as maybe an oil stabilizer, I havnt done a leakdown or compression test yet. But since Ive gotten the car I was wondering If some of my rings were bad because I also get blue smoke at WOT as well... Im not too sure on the problems that lie in my motor, so any assitance or direction would be greatly appreciated. thanks...
Nick
Nick
Are you sure that the smoke is blue? Is it black? I doubt the rings are bad...maybe valve seals but a car rarely smokes blue on WOT unless the rings are really f^ed up are the valve seals are non exsistant. Besides, if they were that bad it would smoke on start up and idle. Change you pcv valve first and if you want put a catch can...it cant hurt and what $100 and an hour.
I had a similar problem and first I changed valve springs but it didn't help. After that I went for a tune and it's all gone. It was detonation. Fuel trims were part of the problem. Don't ask me the specifics because I don't know. I just know the guy used LS1 Edit to reprogram and then used a scanner to see what was going on through the RPMs & at WOT. Voila!
Anybody in the Denver Colorado area that has autotap or ls1edit let me know...I have already gotten a tune for my car it wasnt nothing big but they told me for some reason my car was so far off the charts is what they said, but it didnt seem like that when i bought.. Like it didnt feel that messed up before the tune and it didnt feel that different or run much different after the tune. Also i dont believe it listed the A/F readings on my dyno paper. Ill look.. I did however gain about 20 ft lb's as well as rwhp.. but I am not sure waht they did.... so you think I should do my pcv valve , what other corrective actions could I take...is Seafoam worth it?...and is it Easy? I was gonna maybe try some Lucas Oil stabilizer to see if the rings could seat better and maybe get rid of my smoke issue, I think its blue smoke and the tune shop thought so also...Besides I know its not coolant and im pretty sure its not fuel...So i think its oil burning...I go thru a qt of oil every 1000miles roughly which is pretty normal Im assuming..Let me know what you think I should do....Thanks guys..
I suggest getting a catch can and changing the pcv valve to try and solve you oil consumtion issue (good to have anyway). Who tuned your car? Pinging comes from either bad gas or the tune. Try a different gas station, preferaly a name brand like BP or Sunoco. If that doesnt fix anything, your tune may be a little off.
I had a similar problem, from 4500 and up it almost sounded like something was rattling or flying around under the hood. Maybe not flying around but it sounded like when something gets stuck in a vacuum cleaner hose. That might sound wrong at first but whatever. Anyways, I got it tuned and the problem was gone. Whats really crazy was I had a moth stuck to one of my MAF sensor poles.......And yes, I do run it with a filter...wtf?
I don't think using a quart of oil every 1K miles is normal. I'm running 5 w 30 full syn & mine used 1 qt after I had 7500 miles on the oil. You say you only have 28K miles on the engine. Sounds like a rebuild. My experience on total rebuilds is old small blocks, but I believe on the LS1 the crosshatching of the cylinders for ring seat is more critical than the old stuff. It may not have been done properly. The end gap on the rings may be off. Worn valve guides? You could also have bad seals on the intakes which would pull oil into the combustion chamber. Who knows? When you buy something that has been rebuilt by a previous owner, you just don't know what the heck you're getting. Have you done a compression test & leakdown test? I feel for you. I hope it's something simple and it works out for you.
easiest way to check for detonation: run it until its almost empty, then put 5 gallons of race (100+ octane) gas in it, there should be a station somewhere near you that has 100 unleaded. If its gone after that, you have detonation. Scanning is more accurate but not everyone has the means to do it.
