Ok well I'll start out by saying I was doing a compression test by removing all of the spark plugs. Then disconecting the fuel to the injectors (2 white connectors) then I plugged in the compression gauge and let it go over for a couple turns. Anyhow now that I've got it all back together I went to crank it and it cranked fine but was tapping like crazy. The engine tapped for about 30-60 seconds and increased with rpms. With time it got quiter. Now it is quite again. Is this just because a lifter needed to pump back up with oil? Also does, this mean that I need new lifters? I am about to install a cam saturday and I really don't want to put it off because I need to buy lifters and wait for them to get here. Let me know what ya'll think. Is this normal?

Also not really completly on topic, but I'd like to know. Is it common for the #7 and #8 plug to have oil on it? The compression came up good on both, but there was quite a bit of oil on the plug. These were the only ones that had oil on it. Is it just the way things are designed or do I have some bad valve seals on those valves?

Kevin

 

The two white connectors on your valve covers? Those aren't for the injectors, they're for the coils. You were very possibly pumping fuel into the cylinders the whole time, which will skew your results a little bit. Also, none of that would affect your lifters or other valvetrain to cause tapping though.

 

I'm an idiot, I knew that. I was thinking that the whole time, especially while I was smelling fuel Any ideas on the tapping though, whether or not that it caused the tapping or not. I'm think that since I was cranking it quite a few times that the oil pressure wasn't enough to get to the lifters? I don't know, just looking for an explanation. Could I have messed something up with the fuel dump in the cylinders?

 

Man, youre pretty intelligent.

Yes ,it is normal to have some oil on those threads...If you know how to read them correctly by the way they are heating you could learn more on your engine and figure out what indexing your plugs are and all that. Easy ways to make more power.

Good job on the unplugging the fuel injectors.

Mike

 

Wow, that was sooo helpful. What does reading plugs have anything to do with having oil on them? If I wanted to know about reading plugs I would have asked that, but I didn't. Thanks for answering my question So just because I busted on ya a little bit about exhaust are you going to go around searching my threads to make stupid comments like these? That's lame...

Now that we know that I unplugged the coils instead of the injectors as Brains and I had already determined before v6 bird had to chime in. Anyone have answers to my questions.

I was thinking it was the injectors I guess because I remember that I had to disconect them to prime the oil pump so it wouldn't crank on me. It's a sad day when a simple mistake makes someone un-intelligent.

 

T T T

 

I'll tell you since you obviously arent a 50 watt light bulb. If you see where the threads are darker and more "heated" you can see if you are truly using a good plug for your application. If you can get heat on all the threads (darker area on all the threads) then you are using a good plug for your application. Now just because some uses a TR6 or 55 and says oh they are great...isnt correct. Yes they fit, but there are other options out there from NGK that will produce better results on the track and dyno. Your welcome. Back to your compression test. They yield results but really dont give you as good as info as say a leak down test.

Mike

 

Oil on plugs in back cylinders is relative to the same issue of those 2 being leaner.
Oil gets into the intake and accumulates mostly in the back.
Do a leakdown test to confirm that it is not a seal issue, then the above applies.

 

Pretty much what i said but I didnt put it in simple enough terms for him to comprehend, i didnt know how to.

But maybe im reading this wrong...Are you saying that the oil is seeping from the intake down into the head and showing up on his threads?

But yes, heat will show up on the threads and that was my point. What is a spark plugs job? To provide spark is the most obvious, but what else is it there for?

 

Miawwwwww LOL
Possible if it isn't a seal issue and compression is good.

Are you asking? or just F-around?
Tuning, but if you are using this method on your car, you must be the spark plug change wizz, as we all know how easy it is to change plugs in our f-bodies
I can see it.
Fresh set of plugs > 1 run at track > remove plugs at track > read them > tune adjust > put fresh set in> repeat process untill satisfied

 

Yes im serious...And with no emission stuff it takes about 30 minutes to change them while out for me on my car.

 

used to do that in Old School motors but with FI (fuel injected) there is easier ways with diagnostic tools, wouldn't you agree

 

I would add to run very VERY hard in 3rd (or 4th) then at top of RPM shut the engine completly... then check plug COLOR!

my engine had all plugs witish, very light tan, (80k Km later) (im used to race motorcycles and expected some coffe/wcream colr), remeved the heads and all pistons where coated very humid with oil, gunk, and a lot of carbon, even flakes, (dont know how to post pics).

intake was FLODED in oil

dont get smoked out, I did receive A LOT of flames for a simple question, some insults... but hey... isnt this FUN or what!!!!!!!!!!!!!

good luck with your change!!!!!!

 

Spark plugs dont lie...Think about this for second....

When you have a electric sender on your FP gauge to send a reading inside the car and it starts wigging out, what do you do? You put a manual gauge on the rail to make sure the gauge aint lying to you...Ill stick to the manual stuff. They dont lie. Just think nothing was really wrong with the fuel pump yet, if you didnt know how to troubleshoot then youd have just spend a big amount of money trying to fix the problem. Widebands are good and all that but it doesnt hurt to compare the plug readings with what you see on the wideband. Comprende?

 

V6 bird can you stop with the name calling and crap, I didn't do anything to you except point something out in 1 thread that seemed obvious to me. I don't know why you are being so negative. I UNDERSTAND PLUG READINGS. You don't have to act like I'm retarded just because I didn't respond to your post. I made one mistake by saying that I unplugged the injectors (which was the coils) why are you making such a big deal about it. I called you out on working with exhaust because you said you had been making custom exhaust 2 years before you started welding. What was I supposed to think? What would anyone else think. You explained yourself and I read it, I thought that was over with. I really don't know why yall keep bringing up plugs. This is the question at hand

 

last time i messed with some plugs i ended up not putting them on tight enough and having them make tapping sounds on compression stroke cause of air leaking out...

 

It's not that, I know they are in tight enough. It is definatly the lifters. I'm just wondering if cranking the engine over a lot without actually starting it will bring the need for them to pump up when it actually does start. I just changed cams yesterday and it did the same thing, now it is back quite again.

 

If you dumped a lot of fuel into the holes, then it seeped into the oil (crankcase).
Change your oil/filter.
If motor is stopped for a few hours and your oil is thin, lifter bleed down will be accelerated.
That is assuming there is no mechanical issue.
I would use 0W40 Mob 1

 

Thank you. I'm still getting pretty high oil pressure, I plan on changing my oil soon, actually maybe today. I can't ever find 0w40. If I could I'd run it, I'd also run the amsoil 5w40 which I can't find. So I am running mobil1 5w30 changed every 3000 miles.

 

777, not sure if you tried these places, but ive seen M1 0W40 and the 5W40 at Wal-mart. I went to Autozone the other night and they had the M1 0W40 as well. Just a thought. HTH