need mod assistance
Kooks stainless steel full length headers
X pipe with high flow catalytic converters
Gmmg Exhaust
Custom Hydraulic roller camshaft
Dual high performance valve springs, titanium retainers
LID
Hardened race pushrods
GM gasket set
plug wire set w/Kevlar heat protectors
AC Delco Iridium spark plugs
160 Thermostat
Fast LSX intake and Throttle body
PCM programming
Chassis dyno tuning
OK now I need suggestions on what size cam to go with? I Want a cam that`s going to give good horse power without sacrificing low end torque. I don`t want to change gearing right now. Also I don`t want to do anything to the heads right now either.
Also with the Fast LSX intake. With the above listed mods, should I go 90mm or 78mm. I plan to do head work later so should I go 90mm now? Also who has the best 90mm TB?
Will I need to replace my rocker arms?
What type of clutch should I go with? because I`m told this setup will get me around 400rwhp or better. What do you think I should reach RWHP wise?
Any other suggestions are greatly welcome. Thanks for your help!
no need to mess with your rocker arms
spec tage 3 with aluminium flywheel ,, sure will be your best
seems that your forgot the mass air flow u have to choose between SLP or GMS
i wish that i could make things clear
thanks
fahad
Kooks stainless steel full length headers
X pipe with high flow catalytic converters
Gmmg Exhaust
Custom Hydraulic roller camshaft
Dual high performance valve springs, titanium retainers
LID
Hardened race pushrods
GM gasket set
plug wire set w/Kevlar heat protectors
AC Delco Iridium spark plugs
160 Thermostat
Fast LSX intake and Throttle body
PCM programming
Chassis dyno tuning
Ditto on the subframe connectors. One reason to do them early (besides traction) is to avoid twisting the body with that extra power. You can end up with poor door fit and wind noise while you’re cruising.
I suggest better tires. Drag radials if it’s to be a street car. Slicks or ET Streets for the strip. If the car doesn’t hook your mods aren’t going to do you much good.
Also, you need to put about $2,400 aside to replace the rear (plus installation if you don’t do it yourself). The stock rear won’t hold up.
Also, consider LCA’s if you have trouble hooking.
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next i would go for the 90fast +tb , next go for the MAF 85mm , Asp pulley.
go for a good tune after that and invest some $$ for some radials and go kick *** at the track , low 12 is easy to achieve by not doing any major upgrade as a camshaft or heads.
Kooks stainless steel full length headers
X pipe with high flow catalytic converters
Gmmg Exhaust
Custom Hydraulic roller camshaft
Dual high performance valve springs, titanium retainers
LID
Hardened race pushrods
GM gasket set
plug wire set w/Kevlar heat protectors
AC Delco Iridium spark plugs
160 Thermostat
Fast LSX intake and Throttle body
PCM programming
Chassis dyno tuning
OK now I need suggestions on what size cam to go with? I Want a cam that`s going to give good horse power without sacrificing low end torque. I don`t want to change gearing right now. Also I don`t want to do anything to the heads right now either.
Also with the Fast LSX intake. With the above listed mods, should I go 90mm or 78mm. I plan to do head work later so should I go 90mm now? Also who has the best 90mm TB?
Will I need to replace my rocker arms?
What type of clutch should I go with? because I`m told this setup will get me around 400rwhp or better. What do you think I should reach RWHP wise?
Any other suggestions are greatly welcome. Thanks for your help!
Gmmg Exhaust
Hardened race pushrods
GM gasket set
plug wire set w/Kevlar heat protectors
AC Delco Iridium spark plugs
Chassis dyno tuning

The questions are, what cam is best for you? Sounds like you want a mid-sized cam.

Many out there will hold that power. My McLeod Twin has held up fine for about 4 years.
Peace,
Craig.
12-bolt is fine...but SEARCH!!! on who makes a "good" one. Moser makes them too...
Peace,
Craig.





