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Changing Pushrods

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Old Dec 2, 2005 | 05:00 PM
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Default Changing Pushrods

How hard is it to just change out the pushrods?!?
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Old Dec 2, 2005 | 05:14 PM
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With non adjustable rockers, fairly easy. Just loosen them, remove old one> put new one in and tighten to 22ftlbs. Just make sure the p-rod tip is well centered in the rocker cup area.
With adjustables, it is a different story.
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Old Dec 2, 2005 | 05:19 PM
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Maybe a 1 hour job at most. Easy.
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Old Dec 15, 2005 | 01:59 PM
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You do not have to go about making sure the pistons are in such and such position as seen here do you:
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=21
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Old Dec 15, 2005 | 02:01 PM
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Pretty easy the question I have is why would you just change the pushrods?
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Old Dec 15, 2005 | 02:01 PM
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nope. you should be able to drop them right in after you pull the other ones out.
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Old Dec 15, 2005 | 02:13 PM
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Did a h/c/stall/rearend/complete suspension and a bunch of other stuff over a few days. I bought the car used, and had the old pushrods as the car had hardened ones from a previous cam install about 9k ago. So we pull the rods, and 15 are hardened, 1 factory. I go count the old ones I had from when I bought the car as I got the stock parts, and sure enough 15 rods. So that is why I am changing just the rods.
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Old Dec 15, 2005 | 05:49 PM
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Bent ones is a good reason to change them too.
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Old Dec 15, 2005 | 09:50 PM
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Hopefully I will not find that out!
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 01:50 AM
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Originally Posted by BoneSS
You do not have to go about making sure the pistons are in such and such position as seen here do you:
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=21
I second that link!
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 08:10 AM
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After you torque the rockers down, make sure you rotate the motor over a few times, then re-torque them to 22 lbft.
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 12:32 PM
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So basically remove the coil packs, remove the valve covers, unbolt the rockers, pull the rods, put in new rods, put on old rockers, torque to 14 lbft, then rotate motor a few time,s torque to 22 lbft, and reassemble?
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 12:41 PM
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trq to 14ftlbs on the first pass, then re-trq them all to 22ftlbs...then rotate the engine 3 or 4 times, the re-trq again to 22ftlbs to ensure they're all trq'd to spec.

Good Luck!
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 12:58 PM
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Cool--thanks!!!
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Old Dec 17, 2005 | 10:47 AM
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you do wanna make sure the the lifters are are on the base circle of the cam so the rocker arm isnt trying to compress the spring while your trying to tighten it. you could get the a false torque reading screw up the pushrod tip
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Old Dec 17, 2005 | 10:48 AM
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you do wanna make sure the the lifters are are on the base circle of the cam so the rocker arm isnt trying to compress the spring while your trying to tighten it. you could get a false torque reading or screw up the pushrod tip
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Old Dec 17, 2005 | 10:55 AM
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I would measure to make sure that the previous butcher got the right rods in there. I only say butcher because they only put in 15 out of 16 which would make me wonder what other half as mods have been done.
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Old Dec 17, 2005 | 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by TSDuke
After you torque the rockers down, make sure you rotate the motor over a few times, then re-torque them to 22 lbft.
I did not rotate the motor and retorque.Snapped a rocker arm bolt off flush with the head while driving two weeks later. Had to drill out the hardened bolt- pain, tap, and insert a timesert.
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Old Dec 17, 2005 | 01:07 PM
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Start with engine at TDC on #1 and then do those valves on the base circle. LS1howto has the sequence. Then rotate 360 and do the rest, then 360 and check first set, then 360 and check 2nd set. Don't try and compress the springs with the bolt. This is per the service manual on my Vette. I would also soak the PR's in oil so they fill (they will bubble) and maybe use a dab of Redline assembly lube where they go in the rocker for the startup.
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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 12:20 PM
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Thanks! Want to make sure I do it right.
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