Ive been reading through the jmx cam instal several times and am still wondering why it is better to use the longer crank pulley bolt when doing the cam swap. Thanks

 

If you use the old bolt, which you can, and your balancer is tight on the crank snout you will be whaling away with a big torque wrench and a bigger cheater (I use my 6 foot long aluminum jack handle) with only 2 threads started in the stock length bolt.

Guess what you do if you strip the threads on the inside of the crank???

Perry

 

Thanks bud...that clears it up alot i guess i will spend the few dollars and get another crank bolt whenever i do my instal.

 

I could not find one locally. It is a 16 mm x 2.0 mm pitch and needs to be 100 or 110 mm long...I forget exactly.

I got mine online from McMaster.com.

Perry

 

I think it said 120 mm long in the jmx instal and yea m16x 2.0.

 

in another thread said to buy a threaded ROD, use all the threads available in the crank AND THEN, install the pulley with a nut&washer, uninstall the rod then reinstall the OLD bolt, put 140FT" then install the NEW bolt to 25-30Ft" then + 140 deg (wich will be hard).

 

I think that problem is most common when using the stock balancer and which is compounded if it's a high mileage engine that has never had the balancer removed. I have the ASP pulley and never had a problem using a stock crank bolt removing the balancer. But it has been removed several times with no problems.

 

I used a 130 mm long bolt and had no problems. I used my lathe to counter sink the head to keep the puller centered. Check here for more info.

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23

 

Go to McMaster-Carr on line and order a 300 mm threaded rod and some nuts. Then screw that in all the way in the crank, put on some washers and the nuts and pull it on. Total cost is about $15 and is a much better way to go IMO.

 

Put the pulley in a 200 degree oven for about an hour and it will slide on most of the way. No need to buy a longer bolt this way.

OK flame on.

 

reusing stock pulleys
they are bitch to reinstall even with a long bolt. Best way I can imagine has to be a GM pulley installer. I agree that the ASP is the best option. Those things slide right on and off.
I did the oven method once and it barely helped and added 2 hours to an install

 

So you don't strip out the threads in the crank.