Replacing one piston and rod?
Replacing one piston and rod? Just got a '98 trans am with a broken #2 rod, nothing is damaged enough to take the engine completly apart.
What do you guys think of just dropping the pan to replace one? I don't even want to take the other head off. Before disassembly the compression was 180-200 psi in all the other cylinders.
It has 113,000 miles, bone stock.
Where could I find just one?
Anyone take the pan off?
My manual says to lift the engine up AND loosen the engine cradle bolts, take the trans pan off. Sounds like a lot but I really just want to get it running as easy as possible.
What do you guys think of just dropping the pan to replace one? I don't even want to take the other head off. Before disassembly the compression was 180-200 psi in all the other cylinders.
It has 113,000 miles, bone stock.
Where could I find just one?
Anyone take the pan off?
My manual says to lift the engine up AND loosen the engine cradle bolts, take the trans pan off. Sounds like a lot but I really just want to get it running as easy as possible.
I think you could definitely do it that way. You'd probably save some major cash too. I'd just make sure that the walls are definitely okay. Otherwise the galled up wall will trash the new piston.
I'm not sure you can break a rod and not have ANY other damage anywhere. if by some miricale you don't have any other damage you should still definatly take out the motor, put it on an engine stand and clean the ever living **** out of it. there has to be some metal from the brocken rod all up in there.
Belive me if you half *** it it WILL come back and bite you in the ***.
Belive me if you half *** it it WILL come back and bite you in the ***.
I broke a rod in a 396 years ago and it broke to bottom of two pistons and chewed up the bottom of the cylinder walls slightly but a little blending and a re-hone cleaned it up. I removed the motor and cleaned it up real well but I did not pull the other pistons.
BTW - You can't replace a rod by just pulling the pan because the piston will not come out the bottom and you have to remove it to put the new rod on. You will have to at least pull the intake and one head - after all this it may be almost as easy to remove the motor since working it on a stand is so much easier.
As has been stated, it us unlikely that there no other damage and it would be next to impossible to clean it well enough in the car.
Steve
BTW - You can't replace a rod by just pulling the pan because the piston will not come out the bottom and you have to remove it to put the new rod on. You will have to at least pull the intake and one head - after all this it may be almost as easy to remove the motor since working it on a stand is so much easier.
As has been stated, it us unlikely that there no other damage and it would be next to impossible to clean it well enough in the car.
Steve Man you guys really make me out to look like a dumbass. I know you can't pull a piston from the bottom, I already have the one head off, there is a notch knocked out of the bottom of the cylinder, the big end is still on the crank and spins free, not loose not tight, theres no coolant in the oil, hell I drove the car to my house when I bought it.
I've rebuilt blown engines before, check out the picture of the one with the hole in it, that was in a 427 big block, metal from that went accross the intake into other clyinders, the rod bent, the cylinder wall cracked. I had it sleeved and built it back up.
The 454 here at the bottom of the page was blown up by someone else.
Yea, this is too much to fix.
Theres also a picture of the LS1 piston (NOTICE HOW IT'S SITTING ON AN LS1 HEAD AND IF YOU LOOK IN THE BACK GROUND YOU MIGHT SEE THE INTAKE).
I've rebuilt blown engines before, check out the picture of the one with the hole in it, that was in a 427 big block, metal from that went accross the intake into other clyinders, the rod bent, the cylinder wall cracked. I had it sleeved and built it back up.
The 454 here at the bottom of the page was blown up by someone else.
Yea, this is too much to fix.
Theres also a picture of the LS1 piston (NOTICE HOW IT'S SITTING ON AN LS1 HEAD AND IF YOU LOOK IN THE BACK GROUND YOU MIGHT SEE THE INTAKE).
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 202
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From: longview, tx
Can't help you on the pan deal but make sure you solvent check the valve seats to make sure the valves are straight. Hard to imagine the piston slamming the head and not bending the valve somewhat. I've also cracked heads when connecting rods let go. Good luck.
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i understand what you are saying. if the large end of the rod (the one on the crank) is not messed up then you could just patch it. i would consider that if $ was tight. so if the crank aint messed up and cylinder is good to go i say run it with another rod and piston. check ebay or the wanted forum. might get luck so post up something. no sure about getting the pan off though. havent got that far or had to on the ls1's yet. i have done this sort of a thing back in the day on a few BBC's and older SBC's. BTW did the car have good oil pressure when you driving it? if not then i would go ahead and rebuild.
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Verdad Gallardo I just got the car not even a week ago. The oil pressure sender was broken off and leaking so I filled it up and drove it 5 minutes to my house.
This all doesn't even matter now, I can't get the title for the car so as it sits right now the engine is ready to pull. Took me 4 hours maybe 5, thought it would be more difficult than it was.
I'm going to pull the rear too.
I may rebuild it and put it in my 2000 S10.
So I'm not going to change just one piston if I do that.
This all doesn't even matter now, I can't get the title for the car so as it sits right now the engine is ready to pull. Took me 4 hours maybe 5, thought it would be more difficult than it was.
I'm going to pull the rear too.
I may rebuild it and put it in my 2000 S10.
So I'm not going to change just one piston if I do that.
