Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
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First day with my new die grinder (porting heads)

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Old 12-12-2005, 09:08 PM
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CBX
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Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
Okay, blending the seats im pretty clear on, but what about the lower par of the bowls? Most say to do 90%, 1.800" specifically, just wondering if you eyeballed them or you used something to measure, or maybe you didnt really open that part up too much yet?
I don't know what you mean by the lower part of the bowls. Do you mean like my first picture?

Did you take out the rocker bolt boss yet?
Old 12-12-2005, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Bo White
Get a stock valve(intake and exhaust) and have a mchine shop turn em down to 1.8/1.395 and then use them as a go/no go guage.
Stock valves I dont have, but a machine shop, i just happen to have. Ill find something to turn down in a lathe. I ported my heads by hand while surrounded by 5 perfectly good CNC machines... hows that for DOH!
Old 12-12-2005, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
Stock valves I dont have, but a machine shop, i just happen to have. Ill find something to turn down in a lathe. I ported my heads by hand while surrounded by 5 perfectly good CNC machines... hows that for DOH!
Oh, I get it, DOH! I just did them by eye, kept them the same all the way down, didn't take out that much. Just tried to blend everything and mostly took a lot off obviously from around the guides. I also did the roof of the exhaust just as described in the previous thread.
Old 12-12-2005, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
Okay, blending the seats im pretty clear on, but what about the lower par of the bowls? Most say to do 90%, 1.800" specifically, just wondering if you eyeballed them or you used something to measure, or maybe you didnt really open that part up too much yet?

Im thinking about just eyeballing it flush with the inner part of the seat down vertically and fading into the bottom of the bowl. Not quite sure how im going to pick off behind the valve guide yet. Guess ill just use the ball carbide burr.
You really should use a telescoping gauge and mic to be accurate.

Brandon
Old 12-12-2005, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by CBX
This is what I did last night. I still need to smooth it all out.


Your intake valve guide has a sharp edge on the back side. Round that thing out or it will create a disturbance in the air flow.

Brandon
Old 12-12-2005, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Xtnct00WS6
So no bigger than 1.58 on the exhaust width? How about the exhaust height and the intake runner port height and width measurements? Any recommended specifics on that?

Do those measurements apply to 243's too?

Thanks!
1.58 is the number you should apply to any 1 3/4 header. Measure width and diagonally. On the LS6 port, you dont need to widen really any, you should already be right there. However you can lose .080 out of the roof and another .080 out of the floor. Take .080 out of the floor from the opening and taper to 0 at 1/2" in. Also widen the bowl to short turn transitions, on the upper left and right when looking down the bowl. The shoulders of the short turn is the best way I can describe it.

Brandon
Old 12-12-2005, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by xfactor_pitbulls
Your intake valve guide has a sharp edge on the back side. Round that thing out or it will create a disturbance in the air flow.

Brandon
What about the ridge leading up to the valve guide?
Old 12-12-2005, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by CBX
What about the ridge leading up to the valve guide?
You can cut that out at the base of the guide. It doesnt really show up on the flow bench though. Just make sure you dont cut too deep at the base of the guide. Thats when you have a blow out.

Brandon




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