Some lifter, stud,cam and assembly questions.
#1
Some lifter, stud,cam and assembly questions.
OK guys, I am ready to start putting together my LS2 402. I ordered new lifters and was hoping to get a couple of things clarified.
1) Should lifters be soaked in oil?
2) What is lifter preload?
3) Using ARP studs. Do I use the stock torque/angle specs or different ones? If different, does someone know what they should be?
4) Do you really have to degree the cam in or can it just be put in on the "dot"?
Any other advise would help.
Thanks in advance.
1) Should lifters be soaked in oil?
2) What is lifter preload?
3) Using ARP studs. Do I use the stock torque/angle specs or different ones? If different, does someone know what they should be?
4) Do you really have to degree the cam in or can it just be put in on the "dot"?
Any other advise would help.
Thanks in advance.
#2
TECH Junkie
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1) yes
2) it's the amount the lifter cup is depressed when the lifter is sitting on the base circle
3) different specs for ARP stuff. I have bolt's, not sure if they are the same for studs, but 3 passes, 30-50-70 on the 10 big ones, and 22 on the small ones
4) you don't really have to do anything, but to make 100% sure your install is correct you should degree the cam.
2) it's the amount the lifter cup is depressed when the lifter is sitting on the base circle
3) different specs for ARP stuff. I have bolt's, not sure if they are the same for studs, but 3 passes, 30-50-70 on the 10 big ones, and 22 on the small ones
4) you don't really have to do anything, but to make 100% sure your install is correct you should degree the cam.
#3
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Originally Posted by TAQuickness
1) yes
2) it's the amount the lifter cup is depressed when the lifter is sitting on the base circle
3) different specs for ARP stuff. I have bolt's, not sure if they are the same for studs, but 3 passes, 30-50-70 on the 10 big ones, and 22 on the small ones
4) you don't really have to do anything, but to make 100% sure your install is correct you should degree the cam.
2) it's the amount the lifter cup is depressed when the lifter is sitting on the base circle
3) different specs for ARP stuff. I have bolt's, not sure if they are the same for studs, but 3 passes, 30-50-70 on the 10 big ones, and 22 on the small ones
4) you don't really have to do anything, but to make 100% sure your install is correct you should degree the cam.
#4
Hey thanks for the answers.
To clarify on #2. I have heard people talking about this when they are talking about putting the rockers back on the heads. I am going to use the stock rocker for now. Should I have any concerns when torquing them down since I am using new lifters or should I just go by the book on the torque specs. I am aware that you should turn the motor over a couple of times and recheck but is that it?
To clarify on #2. I have heard people talking about this when they are talking about putting the rockers back on the heads. I am going to use the stock rocker for now. Should I have any concerns when torquing them down since I am using new lifters or should I just go by the book on the torque specs. I am aware that you should turn the motor over a couple of times and recheck but is that it?
#5
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Crane recommends not soaking in oil so preload can be set properly, but I don't like the idea of putting them in without some type of pre-lube. Also, I think the lifters come with an anti-corrosive that should be washed out first. Check with the manufacturer on that though.
You need the ARP Moly for the torque sequence on the studs. If you don't have it, the torque value may be different. Check with ARP. All of their pre-load (torque values) are based on using their lube a specific way.
You need the ARP Moly for the torque sequence on the studs. If you don't have it, the torque value may be different. Check with ARP. All of their pre-load (torque values) are based on using their lube a specific way.