Oil Pump installation Question
Gary,
I'm only going by what was on the video tape I made of the show. I guess the intent is that if the pump housing is centered in relation to crank sprocket/oil pump drive, the the georotor in the pump will also be properly aligned when you put it back in pump housing. I don't really know. I was the one asking the question, remember?
I'm only going by what was on the video tape I made of the show. I guess the intent is that if the pump housing is centered in relation to crank sprocket/oil pump drive, the the georotor in the pump will also be properly aligned when you put it back in pump housing. I don't really know. I was the one asking the question, remember?
10 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Berkeley, California
Originally Posted by JnJSpdShop
You can certainly assemble the pump and **** the housing so it is rubbing against the lower timing gear/oil pump drive. That is why GM sells a tool to install it, because for safety sake it should be centered so there is no housing wear.
Thanks, Gary
Last edited by Gary Z; Dec 29, 2005 at 08:09 PM.
TECH Regular
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Orlaanndoooo
Originally Posted by Gary Z
Is the GM tool a feeler guage? Where is this information. My 2002 Camaro/Firebird Service Manual makes no mention of any special tool or feeler guage in the section dealing with oil-pump installation. It just says torque the mounting bolts to 18 ft-lbs. No loctite.
Thanks, Gary
Thanks, Gary
What about the orientation of the drive (inner gear) gear?
Also, as stated above there is no mention of a special tool or using Loctite on housing bolts at least in the '98 GM service manual.
Also, as stated above there is no mention of a special tool or using Loctite on housing bolts at least in the '98 GM service manual.
Originally Posted by JnJSpdShop
You have never seen your engine builders center the housing on the crank/timing chain drive? How do you engine builders center the pump so there isn't wear on the housing & aluminum shavings in the oil?
That is the correct way to do it
I don't agree with this statement at all. You can certainly assemble the pump and **** the housing so it is rubbing against the lower timing gear/oil pump drive. That is why GM sells a tool to install it, because for safety sake it should be centered so there is no housing wear. If you don't believe me put the oil pump on put all 4 bolts in a tighten them so you can still move the pump and you will see there is still room for movement to contact the pump housing
That is the correct way to do it
I don't agree with this statement at all. You can certainly assemble the pump and **** the housing so it is rubbing against the lower timing gear/oil pump drive. That is why GM sells a tool to install it, because for safety sake it should be centered so there is no housing wear. If you don't believe me put the oil pump on put all 4 bolts in a tighten them so you can still move the pump and you will see there is still room for movement to contact the pump housing
Thanks JnJSpdShop
Update: I finished everything up, reassembled the pump loctited the bolts etc. As a final check I slide the .002" feeler gauge between the housing and high part of the spline on crank sprocket/ oil pump drive, and using a flashlight I could see it protrude from the back side of the pump. I repeated this step for all six of the splines. so I know nothing moved. If you had six strips of .002" shim stock you could probably center the pump without disassembling it, but taking it apart makes it easy to see what your doing.
Last edited by Greg_E; Dec 30, 2005 at 05:07 PM.
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Launching!
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Atlanta area, GA
I asked this question of several well-known turners when I installed mine, as well as referencing my factory manuals. No one that I spoke to bothers aligning the oil pump. And I think this "factory alignment tool" folks are referring to is for the front cover, to make sure it's aligned properly and won't leak. So when you thing about it, us DIY'ers are potentially "fixing" a problem that doesn't exist, but yet we aren't following the factory instructions when installing the front cover (everyone I know simply lets the seal center the cover once the damper is installed). Kind of ironic, don't you think? 
Last edited by Dan_the_C5_Man; Dec 30, 2005 at 09:42 PM.
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From: Berkeley, California
I am obtuse. I now understand what the feeler gauge people were telling us and the Service Manual should tell us but doesn’t. I had completely ignored the potential interference between the crank sprocket and the central bore of the housing. It makes perfect sense to ensure that there is no contact there. I was fixated on the interface between the driven rotor and the housing and saw nothing else. My pump seems to be ok but I now realize I was lucky.
There is a somewhat ironic twist to this insight. My first post was intended to share the fact that anyone willing to risk disassembly of their oil pump could simplify proper seating of the o-ring. The irony is that disassembly is necessary to directly ensure there is no interference between the crank sprocket and the pump housing and therefore, disassembly should be the standard procedure.
This has been a valuable lesson for me. Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this discussion.
-Gary
There is a somewhat ironic twist to this insight. My first post was intended to share the fact that anyone willing to risk disassembly of their oil pump could simplify proper seating of the o-ring. The irony is that disassembly is necessary to directly ensure there is no interference between the crank sprocket and the pump housing and therefore, disassembly should be the standard procedure.
This has been a valuable lesson for me. Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this discussion.
-Gary
Last edited by Gary Z; Dec 30, 2005 at 11:53 PM.
Originally Posted by 618HAWK
I have looked at my spare pump and I see no differance, as to differance in sides. Basic gearator style.
Thanks 618Hawk!! Both sides of the inner drive gear apprear identical to me. I was just hoping maybe some of folks that disassembled and ported their own oil pumps would chime in to confirm.
Thanks again!
I'm sure GM has a "SPECIAL" tool just for making sure the pump body is concentric with the crank sprocket, but getting your hands on one is harder than winning the Powerball. In order to do it with feeler gauges you would need at least 3 0.002 gauges and 4 or more would be even better, but I think that is overkill for this job. Once I got everything back in place and the 4 bolts were a little snug, but not tight I spun the crank letting the crank sprocket do the centering for me. I think this method is well within tolerance.
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Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Portland Oregon
I just bolt it all up, install the gears, tighten the bolts, then try to rattle the inner gear.
If it moves enough to rattle (.001-.002) it's fine. If it is so tight that it will not move, start over.
If it moves enough to rattle (.001-.002) it's fine. If it is so tight that it will not move, start over.
Originally Posted by racecar
. If it is so tight that it will not move, start over.
. My pump would not rotate either, took it apart and reinstalled it like 3 times before realized it wasn't working this way. I had to torque the bolts down a little, rotate the crank, tighten a little, and rotate the crank until my bolts were fully tightened and the pump rotated fine.Philip S.
Launching!
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From: Guatemala City.
IF YOURE AT IT! go ahead an put an ls2 chain GMP# 12586482 (30ish bucks) clean up the sharp edges in your oil pump, put a couple of 0.040" stainless steel washers between the relieve spring and cap (allen key), also buy the chain dampner GMPT# 88958607 (quite pricy for a plastic part)
also drill the cam-sprockets retaining bolts for safety wire, RED locktite, Ive heard (read) fairly frequent that this bolts came loose.
with the z06-1 pumps, thera are THE SAME dont bother to hear BS from someone selling a "special" ls6 pump. for clarification PERHAPS later production pumps got more machining attention...
also when installing oil pump do not slap it, measure it.... with gerotor removed (pump disasembled) instal pump body to crank snout with two bolts finger tight, slide two gap feelers diametrally opossite of 0.002" Th. this WILL center pump body, tighten up the four bolts, then drench the gerotor in 90 oil (!) (this will insure sucking power when first starting) assemble the pump....
prelube your (new!) oil filter install it, put cheap 10W oil
START..... PRAY..... oil needle jumps..... GOOOOOOD JOB!!!!!!!
use the car easy for about two hours... drop oil...
new oil (favorite good quality) new filter.....
E-N-J-O-Y ! ! ! ! ! !
GOOD LUCK!
also drill the cam-sprockets retaining bolts for safety wire, RED locktite, Ive heard (read) fairly frequent that this bolts came loose.
with the z06-1 pumps, thera are THE SAME dont bother to hear BS from someone selling a "special" ls6 pump. for clarification PERHAPS later production pumps got more machining attention...
also when installing oil pump do not slap it, measure it.... with gerotor removed (pump disasembled) instal pump body to crank snout with two bolts finger tight, slide two gap feelers diametrally opossite of 0.002" Th. this WILL center pump body, tighten up the four bolts, then drench the gerotor in 90 oil (!) (this will insure sucking power when first starting) assemble the pump....
prelube your (new!) oil filter install it, put cheap 10W oil
START..... PRAY..... oil needle jumps..... GOOOOOOD JOB!!!!!!!
use the car easy for about two hours... drop oil...
new oil (favorite good quality) new filter.....
E-N-J-O-Y ! ! ! ! ! !
GOOD LUCK!
