Oil Pump installation Question
Oil Pump installation Question I'm doing a cam install and upgrading to the LS6 ported oil pump at the same time. I read JMX's writeup and also checked my GM service manual and both are in agreement that you just bolt the new pump on (With the usual cautions about the O-ring etc.) I remember seeing an episode on one of the DIY TV shows, I think it was "Horsepower" where they went through a more involved process where they loosely mounted the pump temporarily shimmed both sides evenly to center it, (I think they may have removed the pump cover to do this step) and then tightened the four mounting bolts. With the pump properly centered, they then went back and removed one bolt at a time, applied loctite and torqued it to spec. Is this added step necessary or recommended?
It's not a job a want to do twice, so I want to get it right the first time. Also has anyone done a writeup using this procedure?
Thanks for any help.
It's not a job a want to do twice, so I want to get it right the first time. Also has anyone done a writeup using this procedure?
Thanks for any help.
Originally Posted by Greg_E
I'm doing a cam install and upgrading to the LS6 ported oil pump at the same time. I read JMX's writeup and also checked my GM service manual and both are in agreement that you just bolt the new pump on (With the usual cautions about the O-ring etc.) I remember seeing an episode on one of the DIY TV shows, I think it was "Horsepower" where they went through a more involved process where they loosely mounted the pump temporarily shimmed both sides evenly to center it, (I think they may have removed the pump cover to do this step) and then tightened the four mounting bolts. With the pump properly centered, they then went back and removed one bolt at a time, applied loctite and torqued it to spec. Is this added step necessary or recommended?
It's not a job a want to do twice, so I want to get it right the first time. Also has anyone done a writeup using this procedure?
Thanks for any help.
It's not a job a want to do twice, so I want to get it right the first time. Also has anyone done a writeup using this procedure?
Thanks for any help.
I have never seen any of our engine builders doing that. Just wondering, is it our pump?
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I completely disassembled the pump and first installed only the empty housing. This makes it very easy to get the o-ring installed properly. Then I installed the rotors, and then the cover. With the bolts only finger-tight, I turned the engine over a few times (by hand, of course) to be certain everything was centered and nothing was binding. Then I torqued down the housing, then the cover. No problems after 3k miles.
Last edited by Gary Z; Dec 28, 2005 at 11:38 PM.
Originally Posted by Greg_E
I'm doing a cam install and upgrading to the LS6 ported oil pump at the same time. I read JMX's writeup and also checked my GM service manual and both are in agreement that you just bolt the new pump on (With the usual cautions about the O-ring etc.) I remember seeing an episode on one of the DIY TV shows, I think it was "Horsepower" where they went through a more involved process where they loosely mounted the pump temporarily shimmed both sides evenly to center it, (I think they may have removed the pump cover to do this step) and then tightened the four mounting bolts. With the pump properly centered, they then went back and removed one bolt at a time, applied loctite and torqued it to spec. Is this added step necessary or recommended?
It's not a job a want to do twice, so I want to get it right the first time. Also has anyone done a writeup using this procedure?
Thanks for any help.
It's not a job a want to do twice, so I want to get it right the first time. Also has anyone done a writeup using this procedure?
Thanks for any help.
I would say you could probaly get away with out doing it but whay take a chance.
Originally Posted by Katech
I have never seen any of our engine builders doing that. Just wondering, is it our pump?
Does it make any difference which way you install the drive gear ie inner smaller gear? It appears you can flip it either way.
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Only one gear has a locator "DOT" on it so when I used the disassemble method I only concerned myself with the one that had the dot. Removing the drive and driven gears makes getting the pickup tube up into the input port of the pump a whole lot easier because you can wriggle the empty pump body around while your jiggling the pickup tube back and forth to get it started into the port. Once you get it in there you then put the shims in place not before. It's probably a good idea to at least get the pickup tube flange bolt started before you install the shims and start turning the 4 screws in place. As a matter of fact it's probably a good idea to install the drive and driven gears before you install either the shims OR the bolts because once you do the pump body won't move around as much and it's a whole lot easier to get those gears in place if you can rock the pump body around a little bit as you slide the gears home. I know GM says the pump needs to be centered with a feeler gauge (concentric with the drive sprocket), but you'll find that it is basically self-centering because once the drive and driven gears are placed into the pump body there isn't a whole lot of space between the gear and pump body faces. Add to that the 4 mounting bolts and there isn't a whole lot of room for adjustment. Put oil on the gears and body during this process.
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Verdad Gallardo Thanks Eallanboggs, good explanation/points. I was just making sure about the drive gear ie inner gear, my GM service manual does not mention anything about whether or not it makes any difference which way you install the drive gear. Both sides of the drive gear appear identical. Could someone confirm this? Thanks in advance!
Originally Posted by Katech
I have never seen any of our engine builders doing that. Just wondering, is it our pump?
I searched through some video and finally found that episode. They removed the georotor and checked for .002" clearance between the driver and pump housing all the way around. At least according to them, it is a very important step to prevent the georotor from destroying itself and sending bits of metal through the engine. I suppose it can't hurt to check it.
Originally Posted by Gary Z
I do not remember there being any shims.
Thanks for all the replies guys! I've learned alot from this forum.
Last edited by Greg_E; Dec 29, 2005 at 07:47 AM.
Originally Posted by Greg_E
I believe it is one of your pumps. I purchased it through Thunder Racing whick you list as one of your vendors.
I searched through some video and finally found that episode. They removed the georotor and checked for .002" clearance between the driver and pump housing all the way around. At least according to them, it is a very important step to prevent the georotor from destroying itself and sending bits of metal through the engine. I suppose it can't hurt to check it.
I searched through some video and finally found that episode. They removed the georotor and checked for .002" clearance between the driver and pump housing all the way around. At least according to them, it is a very important step to prevent the georotor from destroying itself and sending bits of metal through the engine. I suppose it can't hurt to check it.
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Inserting a feeler guage between the driven rotor and the pump housing seems like very poor practice to me. The housing is aluminum and you do not want to scratch its inner surface. Coat all parts with Mobil 1 and assemble carefully.
Last edited by Gary Z; Dec 29, 2005 at 09:50 AM.
Originally Posted by Gary Z
Inserting a feeler guage between the driven rotor and the pump housing seems like very poor practice to me. The housing is aluminum and you do not want to scratch its inner surface. Coat all parts with Mobil 1 and assemble carefully.
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,471
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From: Berkeley, California
Originally Posted by Greg_E
They didn't say the driven rotor. They were checking clearance between the housing and the portion of the crank sprocket that drives the georotor in the pump.
I know GM says the pump needs to be centered with a feeler gauge (concentric with the drive sprocket), but you'll find that it is basically self-centering because once the drive and driven gears are placed into the pump body there isn't a whole lot of space between the gear and pump body faces.
Last edited by Gary Z; Dec 29, 2005 at 04:40 PM.
Originally Posted by Katech
I have never seen any of our engine builders doing that. Just wondering, is it our pump?
Originally Posted by oange ss
so centering the pump with feeler gages is the correct way ? or extra insurance ?
Originally Posted by eallanboggs
I know GM says the pump needs to be centered with a feeler gauge (concentric with the drive sprocket), but you'll find that it is basically self-centering because once the drive and driven gears are placed into the pump body there isn't a whole lot of space between the gear and pump body faces. Add to that the 4 mounting bolts and there isn't a whole lot of room for adjustment. Put oil on the gears and body during this process.
Last edited by JnJSpdShop; Dec 29, 2005 at 04:33 PM.