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lube on cam when swapping

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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 02:17 AM
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Default lube on cam when swapping

just wanted to know if I need to purchase Comp Cam's break-in lube when installing new cam? do I need apply this same lube on chain as well? if not specific lube required then which one do I need or which one works best? ant info on lube and how to break-in a new cam would be appreciated.


thanks

fuerzaws6
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 02:26 AM
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I just drenched everything in motor oil before installing.
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 08:12 AM
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clean everything with brake cleaner then dry it, then coat everything in motor oil.
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 08:21 AM
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on flat tappet cams (aka non-roller) you have two surfaces (the lifter and the cam lobe) that have to wear into each other. they require a special lube so that they dont grind into each other before they break in.

roller cams do not have a break in. using break-in lubes on roller cams can actually gum up the roller on the lifter, and cause it to scrape.
use regular motor oil to lube the roller cam.

because the cams are rifle drilled, theres a good chance that theres machine shop chips and gunk inside them... clean out the inside with some brake cleaner.. clean the whole cam with it.. then cover it in motor oil, and slip it in.
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 09:50 AM
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I used assebly lube on my cam swap. I thought "what could it hurt?" Never thought about MrDude_1 's comment on gumming the lifters. But I'm not too worried.
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by radkon
I used assebly lube on my cam swap. I thought "what could it hurt?" Never thought about MrDude_1 's comment on gumming the lifters. But I'm not too worried.
i will say ive never heard of it happening on a LS1. however, ive seen it first hand on two small block chevys.

since the lifters are the same design, i wouldnt risk it. however, whats done is done, if you've run the engine for more then a couple mins, the lube is gone anyway.. no harm done.

btw, the lube im referring to is the thick gray moly lube. not the red gel-like grease that some cam manufacturers sell..
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by MrDude_1
btw, the lube im referring to is the thick gray moly lube. not the red gel-like grease that some cam manufacturers sell..
I used the newer red assembly lube, looked like thickened blood. Ran it for about 30 mins and she seems fine. A little smoke on the first start but I figured that was normal (probably just oil seepage into the cylinders during spring swap)
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 11:35 AM
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I used brake cleaner and motor oil on the cam and lifters....no issues ...don't get any brake cleaner in the motor, however... if you are in doubt, use silicone spray instead...

...I did spray the rockers, pushrods, valve stems, lifter bores, cylinder bores, and other visable valve train components with a heavy dose of silicone spray during and after assembly...


I see the NHRA guys use silicone spray exclusively when they assemble drag motors... I picked up the silicone habit a few years ago and now use it for everything I assemble that is subject to friction and wear.

Brake cleaner works well becasue it has a solvent but for cleaning out bits of machine metal that are left behind, I don;t think you really need solvent.... Plain old silicone will work as well and won't comtaminate the crankcase....

Hey... if it works for a 6,000 HP nitro-meth motor, why not use it for my corn-gas street car...
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by robertbartsch
I used brake cleaner and motor oil on the cam and lifters....no issues ...don't get any brake cleaner in the motor, however... if you are in doubt, use silicone spray instead...

...I did spray the rockers, pushrods, valve stems, lifter bores, cylinder bores, and other visable valve train components with a heavy dose of silicone spray during and after assembly...


I see the NHRA guys use silicone spray exclusively when they assemble drag motors... I picked up the silicone habit a few years ago and now use it for everything I assemble that is subject to friction and wear.

Brake cleaner works well becasue it has a solvent but for cleaning out bits of machine metal that are left behind, I don;t think you really need solvent.... Plain old silicone will work as well and won't comtaminate the crankcase....

Hey... if it works for a 6,000 HP nitro-meth motor, why not use it for my corn-gas street car...
the reason brake cleaner is recommended over other solvents is that brake cleaner evaporates completely. leaving no residue behind. you dont have to worry about brake cleaner contaminating your engine.
however, if you just used a liquid spray, you could leave the machining oil, or whatever else is in the cam.
usually they're pretty clean, but if you're paranoid enough to worry about brake cleaner residue being in your motor, you would be twice as paranoid to see the kind of slop that went thru that cam before they gave it a quick cleaning and packaged it...
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 12:14 PM
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just used oil on mine like everybody else.
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 02:38 PM
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thanks guys I think I will clean w/ brake cleaner then then stick to mobil-1 for installation.

thanks again

fuerzaws6
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 03:05 PM
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i wouldnt use synthetic for assembly...I used wolfs head 20W50...stuff is real sticky...then changed over to Mobil1. Soak the lifters and rockers overnight after you clean them!!!

I wouldnt do what NHRA guys do..they rebuild after every run
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Old Jan 5, 2006 | 11:29 AM
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Not to add flame to the fire but Comp Cams recommends using assembly lube:

http://www.compcams.com/Community/Ar...?ID=1014036976

Permatex Ultra Slick (same stuff I used)
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Old Jan 8, 2006 | 02:39 AM
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thanks guys I like the sound of permatex.



fuerzaws6
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Old Jan 8, 2006 | 02:46 AM
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i clean it first with brake clean then put some lithium grease then add oil on top of that.
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