He guys. I can get a half decent price on a set of LS6 heads and I've been thinking of buying them and then sending them out to get ported. I really didn't want to fly cut so would it even be worth doing a stage 1 head with stock valves?

Car has full bolt ons, MS3 cam, 225-250 shot. I will also be switching to a Victor Jr intake, I know it's not the best intake for my set up right now but I think I'll be putting togethor something it'll like for '07.

Thanks,
Andrew

 

same here i am thinking of the pp ls6 full ported heads with stock size valves ?and by the way what is your rwhp for now ? n/a

 

The car has never been on a dyno so I don't know.

 

just my .02...with the Ms3 cam alreayd in there, dont short change yourself on heads. You want to get a well ported head that will match the specs of that cam. There are many affordable heads out there now. PP and PRC have great deals. But id save for a set of ETP or AFR so you have maximum performance. you get what you pay for! good luck!

oh and stick with an LS6 intake, its a proven performer for n/a 346 motors

 

It will make a difference, YES, but will it be optimum, NO.
I would say a good 15>20 rwhp

 

maybe 20rwhp.

 

GM Muscle...is that the stock bottom end?

 

Yep, it's still haning in along with the stock tranny and rear.

Well, maybe I'll bite the bullet and fly cut. It must be a bitch doing #8 though.

 

i'm in the same boat as well, i have been looking at the ls6 heads for a while too.

 

I have stage one LS6 heads with a 150 shot and have gone 10.21 at 130mph at 3500 lbs. I think the heads made a difference. I run stock valves.

 

We can do a set of 243 heads CNC ported with our 5 angle valve job for 2.00"/1.55" or 2.02"/1.57" valves bare for $845.00 per pair. These heads will flow in the 300-303 range @ .600". We also have bare non ported 243 castings for $645.00 per pair.

 

Andrew you'll have to be careful with what configurations you run with that camshaft. There isn't alot of room p/v wise so make sure you select a cylinder head company that has a lot of experience setting up the cylinder heads and how it changes p/v.

We just finished up PRC's brand new LS6 program that is completely awesome! With a 2.04 valve it went 314cfm @ 600 last time I flowed it! If we can help you with the cnc work shoot me a PM & I'd be glad to help!

 

I was asking because of the large shot you're running and its the same reason why I'm iffying on spending the big money for AFR heads. I'm in the same boat as you with a large cam + large spray setup...you can't beat the price of the 243 Patriots.

 

No matter what it is gonna make more power. It is gonna make more power with a better port job with big valves. How big of a difference is maybe one to two tenths and 1-2 mph??

 

I'm going to work with Jason on getting a set up togethor. My only real goal for the season is have a 9.80 street night car that I can drive out the gate and knock down 25+mpg on the ride home (120+ mile round trip).

I pretty much set the car up to dip into the 9s this past fall but I never got a chance to get back to the track and make some passes. I'm excited for this coming season, the way things are going, the car itself will be sub 2,750lbs with an interior and I should get my 60's down into the high 1.30s. It should go like a bastard.

 

Man I need to get my pig on a diet

 

pm sent

 

Stock bottom end, 10 bolt... 135mph trap speed.

I wouldn't bother, seems like you're "pushing your luck" as it is.

I admit to not knowing too much about nitrous, but wouldn't the added compression from the LS6 heads be a little more dangerous with that big of a shot of nitrous?

 

Changing heads involves some work, time, and parts. There are alot of outstanding aftermarket heads for a similar price. My gut says to go with them UNLESS you are racing under rules that require LS1 or LS6 heads.

 

The 10 bolt still looks new inside but that will be delt with when it breaks. With the right tune I don't see this set up being a problem, for awhile anyway. I'm not giving it a full 225 shot at once. It's a two stage wet/dry set up that helps break up the torque. That has been the whole key to making the car last through this past season. If I go 250 it will be a 3 stage set up with the 3rd stage coming in high up in the rpm range. The car is also short shifted at about 6,400 in hopes of keeping the rod bolts togethor (probrably replace them this spring). And there is a reason why I want 25+mpg, this is not a pump gas car.

I think 650rwhp is obtainable out of a stock short block. If it spits a rod or something....oh well, I'll give AAA a call.