Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Hello. I am looking to get into FI soon and therefore id need to build my engine later to handle more boost. I was browsing when i came across these from Speed inc. There are 383 kits and include rotating assembly, 3.903" bore, pistons (you choose from 3), 4.000" stroke, and 6.125" rod length. Now my question is..... How complete will this make my engine. Obviously it will make my engine into a 383 correct? What else is needed for the build/conversion and will this kit include everything i need to handle some more boost. Like is this a complete bottom end change? Also NA, what type of numbers are guys getting from this kit and would it be a good kit for me when i plan to build my motor? Thanks

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Im seeing obviously that the kit doesnt include valvetrain, but numbers NA with a decent sized cam? Really iwant to know how complete this is for a build and what else would be needed to handle boost.

PREDATOR-Z

To handle boost, I would choose pistons with gas reliefs and file gap the rings appropriately.
Block will need to me bored .005, assembly balanced internaly and blueprinted to accept stroke.
You'll also need head studs, Cometic gaskets (MLS).

IMO, get a built shortblock and safe yourself the headache. Most poeple opt for 408 iron.

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Ok, i was looking into those way down the road since they arent too cheap, but what is? This kit NA with a pretty big cam fr the street, how much power approx would i suspect if i wanted to stroke my motor rather than boost?

PREDATOR-Z

With proper combo matching, you can see over 500rwhp 383's

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

hmm maybe ill want to go that way. Im looking at about 7 grand for a turbo kit and i can only run about 6 psi to keep it safe which ill only get about 450. The turbo is probably alot more prone is having something go wrong also. My goal is to have about 600 rwhp for the street. Maybe get the stroker kit, big cam and some heads and a small shot? What would you suggest for a decent set of heads and mathcing cam to get good pwoer for the street? Since the stroker kit is a lot, i probably couldnt afford 2 grand for AFR heads....

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Hmm, maybe some Dart 225 heads and a custom big stroker cam? Now would i need 90/90 intake for this or would an ls6 and ported stock TB work?

jrp

iTrader: (16)

your power is gonna come from you H/C/I combo, dont skimp on that. does you no good spending 3900 on the rating assembly just to go half assed on the heads and valvetrain. my opinion, the lunati is overkill for a street/strip applicatio. i'd go with an eagle crank, compstar rods, and your choice of pistons. or just go on ahead and buy a complete shortblock from one of the sponsors. unless you have the tools and wherewithal to put the motor together yourself and have it in with a good machine shop the costs of buying and building the shortblock will run roughly the same. then spend the money on a good set of heads AFR/ET, Fast/nw 90/90, and cam. thats the only way you'll see any numbers in the 500rwhp range.

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Alright, so you wouldnt suggest that i stroke out my motor? Id have to get it installed. Just buy a new longblock (mise well)?

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Found an alum 402 stroker long blcok for 7100 at TSP and iron 408 stroker long block for 6600

jrp

iTrader: (16)

im not saying not to stroke your motor, im saying that unless you have the tools and experience and are in with a good machine shop the cost of building the shortblock vs buying one already built will be very simiilar. the reason i say this is because you stated that a 408 was to expensive and you seem to be under the impression that a 383 will be far cheaper. when i realility there's not much difference. if i were me i'd skip the 383 all together and just go with the ls2 based 402.

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Alright thanks. Im really unsure if i want to build a big motor for NA, or turbo my already motor, ls1. If i were to build a motor id shoot for around 600 na if possible? Is this at all? And why is the 402 stroker for money than the 408? What would i need for some big NA power?

Elite_Hot_Rod

You probably won't see 600 RWHP's N/A, I'd say 550 on the high side would be more realistic. A 402 is what they call a "square" motor, 4" stroke 4" bore where a 408 is a 4" stroke and 4.030" bore. It's always less expensive to build it yourself if you have the expertise and tools required.

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Yea idont have either, haha. So id buy a motor. ok, we'll say for 550 rwhp

Elite_Hot_Rod

The labor is what will kill you. 550RWHP will probably be on the high side with a hydraulic set up, my 408 makes 485RWHP N/A thru a PG and a 9" with 3:55 gears. I'd look at TSP's 402 or 408 kits. As said previously a well matched heads/cam/intake combo along with a good lower end is where you get the power.

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

alright thanks. But which one.... iron 408 stroker or alum 402 stroker?

Elite_Hot_Rod

I think that's a personal preference. I went iron 408 because personally I think an iron block will take more abuse from alot of nitrous use. If I were going strictly N/A I'd probably go with an aluminum block to save the 100LB weight difference.

Wnts2Go10O

iTrader: (12)

a buddy of mine made 400 some wheel hp and over 500ft/lbs to the wheels with a 382 setup

Elite_Hot_Rod

You can do that with a 6 speed and a built 346.

jrp

iTrader: (16)

500rwtq with a 382 n/a