TSP Torquer v.2 too big for DD?
#1
TSP Torquer v.2 too big for DD?
Hey everyone, sonetime this winter i was planning on buying a cam for my car. Of course I will be geting LT's,catted y, LS6 intake, and port the TB also. But I am kind of confused on what cam to get. I was looking into the Torquer 2 in either a 112 or 113. The thing is would that even be safe to rev anywhere past 6300 on in a 1998? Also, i drive to school 25 highway miles each way. WOuld there be a ton of surging, cruisin at about 60-65 in 6th? For now i also have the stock 3:42's. The 3:73's will hopefully be coming this summer. I can handle some surging. And how much would my gas milage be affected. My original goal was to make 400rwhp cam only. But my car being a 98, im sort of concerned about the rod bolts. Should i even consider this cam? or should i go with something smaller like the F13? I also want something that has a decent lope to it.
Thanks-Jarett
Thanks-Jarett
#2
with a 98 i would be more concerned about oil return than the rod bolts. you can fix the rod bolts easier compared to the oil return issue. regardless, i think you'd be fine if you shifted ~6500 with that cam and the supporting products. the surging would be related to how well your car is tuned. better tune = less surge. also, i would recommend upgrading your oil pump and installing a new timing chain (ls2) with your cam swap.
#4
would i be safe to spin it to 6500? I was going to get a ported ls6 oil pump and ls2 timing chian also. As for the rod bolts, my dad doesnt want me doing that because he says that I would be at a greater risk to spin a bearing after the install, because i would have had everything apart making stuff inside not as tight? It looks like many other people have installed katechs without any problems
#5
Katech bolts are 50lbs/ft and good to go. They were designed especialy for that for GM ASA program.
LS1 rods are cracked rods, so as long as bolt heads are same as stock, no issues.
Katech bolts are similar to stock ones but with a higher tensile strength.
Look, a good TR224 112 will put a huge smile on your face, street friendly, good mileage and if you decide to put heads on in the future a good 420rwhp cam.
LS1 rods are cracked rods, so as long as bolt heads are same as stock, no issues.
Katech bolts are similar to stock ones but with a higher tensile strength.
Look, a good TR224 112 will put a huge smile on your face, street friendly, good mileage and if you decide to put heads on in the future a good 420rwhp cam.
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#11
Originally Posted by sledneck687
i was just searching and it looks liek the f11 had around 390-400 rwhp. Is that right? Also how is the amount of lope with the f11? I want it to sound mean.
I can't vouch for it loping or not, but I'd rather a cam that pulls up top hard and gives a great tq curve than a cam that lopes hard and doesn't provide those benefits. Edit: for Blanco *Not implying the TR224 in this last statement, referring to lope in general.*
Also, have a look at the ol' G5X1 from LG
228 232 .588 .574 112
Last edited by SouthFL.02.SS; 01-11-2006 at 04:50 PM.
#12
Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Katech bolts are 50lbs/ft and good to go. They were designed especialy for that for GM ASA program.
LS1 rods are cracked rods, so as long as bolt heads are same as stock, no issues.
Katech bolts are similar to stock ones but with a higher tensile strength.
Look, a good TR224 112 will put a huge smile on your face, street friendly, good mileage and if you decide to put heads on in the future a good 420rwhp cam.
LS1 rods are cracked rods, so as long as bolt heads are same as stock, no issues.
Katech bolts are similar to stock ones but with a higher tensile strength.
Look, a good TR224 112 will put a huge smile on your face, street friendly, good mileage and if you decide to put heads on in the future a good 420rwhp cam.
#13
Originally Posted by SouthFL.02.SS
I like the F11 because it's making more up top over the TR224. With good heads it's in the 440rwhp range with proper bolt-ons. It has a great tq curve also.
I can't vouch for it loping or not, but I'd rather a cam that pulls up top hard and gives a great tq curve than a cam that lopes hard and doesn't provide those benefits.
Also, have a look at the ol' G5X1 from LG
228 232 .588 .574 112
I can't vouch for it loping or not, but I'd rather a cam that pulls up top hard and gives a great tq curve than a cam that lopes hard and doesn't provide those benefits.
Also, have a look at the ol' G5X1 from LG
228 232 .588 .574 112
#14
Originally Posted by sledneck687
i was just searching and it looks liek the f11 had around 390-400 rwhp. Is that right? Also how is the amount of lope with the f11? I want it to sound mean.
#15
The Torquer 2 would be just fine on a daily driver application. I have one in my Goat right now & I took the guys to lunch in it & 2 of them didn't even notice the camshaft was swapped out with the cats still in place! I would probably go 113 in your application, it will peak earlier & have a little rougher idle. That camshaft comes in pretty early & made 14rwhp gain over a 224/224 .581/.581 camshaft! Thats pretty hard to beat for a camshaft that drives nice & idles nice.
__________________
Jason
Co-Owner, Texas Speed & Performance, Ltd.
2005 Twin Turbo C6
404cid Stroker, 67mm Twins
994rwhp/902lb ft @ 22 psi (mustang dyno) www.Texas-Speed.com
Jason
Co-Owner, Texas Speed & Performance, Ltd.
2005 Twin Turbo C6
404cid Stroker, 67mm Twins
994rwhp/902lb ft @ 22 psi (mustang dyno) www.Texas-Speed.com
#16
Jason, what would be a good rpm to shift at with the torquer 2? would 6400 be too soon? Also, i thought the lower the lsa, the sooner the cams peak? In that case wouldnt the 112 be better? Also how is the gas milage? 18 or so??
#17
You can see in my sig I have that cam (Torqr V2), it replaced my Stealth II (224/220 .581 116) and made an extra 15>20 rwhp.
I was surprised how streetable that cam is but I did loose a bit below. Above 4000 rpm now watch out that thing pulls and pulls. I've been to 6800 on juice and the curve would not even dip.
Would I use it as a daily driver, NO, a still maintain a 22x range cam is better for that, but for street/strip it is awsome. Does it behave on the street, YES.
I was surprised how streetable that cam is but I did loose a bit below. Above 4000 rpm now watch out that thing pulls and pulls. I've been to 6800 on juice and the curve would not even dip.
Would I use it as a daily driver, NO, a still maintain a 22x range cam is better for that, but for street/strip it is awsome. Does it behave on the street, YES.
#18
Torquer on a 113 would probably peak 6200 ish, I think 64 would be ok.
Jason
Jason
__________________
Jason
Co-Owner, Texas Speed & Performance, Ltd.
2005 Twin Turbo C6
404cid Stroker, 67mm Twins
994rwhp/902lb ft @ 22 psi (mustang dyno) www.Texas-Speed.com
Jason
Co-Owner, Texas Speed & Performance, Ltd.
2005 Twin Turbo C6
404cid Stroker, 67mm Twins
994rwhp/902lb ft @ 22 psi (mustang dyno) www.Texas-Speed.com
#19
Originally Posted by sledneck687
Jason, what would be a good rpm to shift at with the torquer 2? would 6400 be too soon? Also, i thought the lower the lsa, the sooner the cams peak? In that case wouldnt the 112 be better? Also how is the gas milage? 18 or so??
Any shifts less that 6600 at wot is a waste of that cam.
What is the point of having a cam that can carry its peak power to 7000 rpm and shifting it at 6400???
If 6400 is what you want, then get a cam that peaks at 5900-6000 and carry that power to 6400. You'll still have more HP on a cam like that from
idle >4500 rpm