Installing a cam next month... A little help please
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Teching In
Joined: Sep 2005
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Installing a cam next month... A little help please I am going to be installing a cam, timing chain, long tubes, ory pipe, underdrive pulley with a dyno tune next month. I am getting the cam from a guy at work he had put it in his corvette but blew his motor due to a set of cracked heads. So the cam is basically new and we ended up trading the cam for my stock ss wheels and he also gave me $150 bucks. Anyways the specs on the cam are I believe 226/226 and like 520 or 530 duration it's around there. So my question is, is this cam good for my stock engine? I have k&n intake and 3.73 gears. And comments please. Also what do you guys think my et should be around? I'm guessing 12.7 Thanks in advance!!
check that cam out real good. If its all good then go for it. I would suggest printing out the ls1tech howto from the FAQ section. I used that and my 2 LS1/LS6 books I have. Went fine without anyhitchs. Just do a search for recent cam installs and you'll find all kinds of little tid bits of cheats to make it go easier. Make sure you really clean those head bolt holes really good.
Ski
Ski
springs, timing chain, and hardened pushrods. Seeing as how you have a 99 i would go with an oil pump too. But like these other guys said......check really good that the cam isn't grooved or messed up in ANY way!
P.S.- might want to get ready for a clutch swap soon if you are still on stock clutch or clutch of stock power. mine didn't last but about 5 months.
P.S.- might want to get ready for a clutch swap soon if you are still on stock clutch or clutch of stock power. mine didn't last but about 5 months.
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TECH Fanatic
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Originally Posted by WsSickLs6
isn't 530* duration a bit much? I don't think it'll clear without flycutting 
I would suggest that you change springs (if possible) Oil pump and Timing chain for sure. hardened pushrods are never a bad idea either. As a matter of fact I would change those too. and maybe retainers to a lighter weight compound such as titanium.
taken from the FAQ at the top of the page:
C. Lobe Separation Angle (LSA)
- LSA is defined as spread in camshaft degrees between the intake centerline and the exhaust centerline.
- Overlap is the number of crankshaft degrees that both the intake and exhaust valves are open as the cylinder transitions through the end of the exhaust stroke and into the intake stroke
- LSA is ground into the cam and cannot be changed without grinding a new cam
- Bigger duration cams will have more overlap then a smaller duration cam even if both are on the same LSA.
- The key to making overlap work is maximizing the power in the rpm band where you want it.
- Long overlap periods work best for high-rpm power. For the street, a long overlap period combined with long-duration profiles combine to kill low-speed torque
- Reducing overlap on a long-duration cam will often increase midrange torque at the expense of peak power, but if the average torque improves, that’s probably a change worth making.
- Many enthusiasts purchase a camshaft strictly on the basis of how it sounds. A cam with generous overlap creates that distinctive choppy idle that just sounds cool.
- While doing my research on the T1 I cam across this dyno in which if I recall Tony (Nineball) stated that the blue graph was a T1 (112 lsa) and the other 2 where a B1 (114) lsa.
- What really affects where the cam makes the most power is the intake timing events. What affects drivability most is the exhaust-closing event.
C. Lobe Separation Angle (LSA)
- LSA is defined as spread in camshaft degrees between the intake centerline and the exhaust centerline.
- Overlap is the number of crankshaft degrees that both the intake and exhaust valves are open as the cylinder transitions through the end of the exhaust stroke and into the intake stroke
- LSA is ground into the cam and cannot be changed without grinding a new cam
- Bigger duration cams will have more overlap then a smaller duration cam even if both are on the same LSA.
- The key to making overlap work is maximizing the power in the rpm band where you want it.
- Long overlap periods work best for high-rpm power. For the street, a long overlap period combined with long-duration profiles combine to kill low-speed torque
- Reducing overlap on a long-duration cam will often increase midrange torque at the expense of peak power, but if the average torque improves, that’s probably a change worth making.
- Many enthusiasts purchase a camshaft strictly on the basis of how it sounds. A cam with generous overlap creates that distinctive choppy idle that just sounds cool.
- While doing my research on the T1 I cam across this dyno in which if I recall Tony (Nineball) stated that the blue graph was a T1 (112 lsa) and the other 2 where a B1 (114) lsa.
- What really affects where the cam makes the most power is the intake timing events. What affects drivability most is the exhaust-closing event.