Harland Sharp Roller Rockers...good stock replacement?
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If I was just wanting a reliable roller rocker set to replace the stockers to go on a pair of 5.3 Patriot heads, would the $389 Harland Sharp Rockers (1.7:1 ratio) be good? The stock ones have ~90,000 on them and I don't want to reuse them.
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Send your stockers to Nasty Performance. He can have them rebuilt by Harlan Sharp. They'll get rid of the needle bearings and go back with the typical trunion that you find in most roller rockers. This will run you about $260 and you won't have to worry about them overwhelming your springs because of that added weight the rollers add.
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Originally Posted by deadmanTA
Someone in another thread just said rollers and LSx engine don't mix.
If that's true it's nice to know beforeyou drop almost $400 in them.
If that's true it's nice to know beforeyou drop almost $400 in them.
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Some information I posted on another thread about comp r lifters regarding the Harland Sharp/Yella Terra type rocker. I agree with what others have said, just have the stock system re-built.
"As far as the rest of your statement we're pretty much on the same page. Also, one thing to note is the use of non-stock rockers REAL SHAFT (not harland sharps or yella terras) with different pivot lengths. Rockers like T&D (what I had), comp shaft rockers (which are pretty identical to T&D), and jessel. These may induce even more load on the lifter as it will be harder for the lifter to push up against the rocker arm as the pushrod cup is often brought closer to the fulcrum and the pivot length is changed to maintain the 1.7 ratio. Further, they may induce valve float as they will lift the valve quicker and faster then an equal ratio stock rocker because of the pivot length difference and stiffer body.
I'd also stay away from the non real shaft rockers I indicated above. I have personal experience with the harland sharps removing 2 mph from my car everything else being equal when I was running my 230/236 cam. The problem with them seems to be that the cradle that the stock rockers used is removed which is an excellent guide to reduce deflection in the stock rocker arms. Furthermore, I believe stock small block chevy rocker studs are 3/8" and am pretty sure big block rocker studs are 7/16". The ls1 rocker stud is 8mm which is closest to 5/16" which will deflect more then the bigger sizes obviously which will become an issue when you remove the stock rocker cradle and don't replace it with a real shaft rocker system and it's cradle."
"As far as the rest of your statement we're pretty much on the same page. Also, one thing to note is the use of non-stock rockers REAL SHAFT (not harland sharps or yella terras) with different pivot lengths. Rockers like T&D (what I had), comp shaft rockers (which are pretty identical to T&D), and jessel. These may induce even more load on the lifter as it will be harder for the lifter to push up against the rocker arm as the pushrod cup is often brought closer to the fulcrum and the pivot length is changed to maintain the 1.7 ratio. Further, they may induce valve float as they will lift the valve quicker and faster then an equal ratio stock rocker because of the pivot length difference and stiffer body.
I'd also stay away from the non real shaft rockers I indicated above. I have personal experience with the harland sharps removing 2 mph from my car everything else being equal when I was running my 230/236 cam. The problem with them seems to be that the cradle that the stock rockers used is removed which is an excellent guide to reduce deflection in the stock rocker arms. Furthermore, I believe stock small block chevy rocker studs are 3/8" and am pretty sure big block rocker studs are 7/16". The ls1 rocker stud is 8mm which is closest to 5/16" which will deflect more then the bigger sizes obviously which will become an issue when you remove the stock rocker cradle and don't replace it with a real shaft rocker system and it's cradle."