View Poll Results: Should I make the switch to Royal Purple?
Yes
137
39.60%
No
209
60.40%
Voters: 346. You may not vote on this poll
Mobil 1 or switch to Royal Purple?
02-02-2006, 08:17 AM
#61
Originally Posted by LSWon00
As a quick side note turbine engines do not use oil for the same lubrication purposes that car or other reciprocating engines do. If you were to use the Mobil oil that turbine engines use you would find that shortly after using it not much would be left of your engine.
02-02-2006, 09:31 AM
#62
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well my car has 57000mi and i was runnin mobil1 one when i bought it but its noisey and i dont like it because after 2200 miles my oil pressure has dropped about 5psi, last night i bought some RP
02-02-2006, 09:49 AM
#63
Originally Posted by rgaynor85
well my car has 57000mi and i was runnin mobil1 one when i bought it but its noisey and i dont like it because after 2200 miles my oil pressure has dropped about 5psi, last night i bought some RP
maybe this is just my logic talking... but do you think you might want to change the oil to RP and see if it helps, or has any effect, BEFORE saying that its the oil in there thats making it noisy?
comon, this isnt rocket science. you guys make it more complicated then it is.
02-03-2006, 08:43 PM
#65
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Originally Posted by MrDude_1
that is SOOOOO not true.
think about this:
we can all agree that the most engine wear occurs at startup, when the engine does not have the full VOLUME of fluid running thru it yet.
a thinner oil pumps quicker and can get into the bearings sooner.
a thicker oil will show PRESSURE sooner, but takes longer to pump around the motor.
sitting overnight, they both will have runoff.
if they're synthetic, both should also leave a rather good film on the parts anyway... so the amount of oil remaining is almost identical.. just because its thicker does NOT mean more oil will stay on there....
in most real life situations, it turns out that the quality synthetic thinner weight oil actually protects better then the thicker oil... even though it reads a lower pressure at times.
think about this:
we can all agree that the most engine wear occurs at startup, when the engine does not have the full VOLUME of fluid running thru it yet.
a thinner oil pumps quicker and can get into the bearings sooner.
a thicker oil will show PRESSURE sooner, but takes longer to pump around the motor.
sitting overnight, they both will have runoff.
if they're synthetic, both should also leave a rather good film on the parts anyway... so the amount of oil remaining is almost identical.. just because its thicker does NOT mean more oil will stay on there....
in most real life situations, it turns out that the quality synthetic thinner weight oil actually protects better then the thicker oil... even though it reads a lower pressure at times.
Fact: Every single engine I have torn down no matter the make that has used Mobil 1 from day one, has shown to be incredibly clean...
02-03-2006, 08:48 PM
#66
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Originally Posted by MrDude_1
btw, im not "pro" any kind of oil.... but i think i may just stay subscribed to these oil threads from now on, just to point out the obvious that so many people seem to miss....
02-04-2006, 11:48 AM
#67
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well i say that it got noisey because the guy i bought the car from used penzoil syn in the car and when i bought it i had about 1500mi left on his oil so when i changed it i used mobil1 sense the majority here says its good but when i did id say the from day one i got more sewing machine noise aqnd then i started to notice piston slap witch i didnt before this point thats why i say its the oil also my oil pressure never dropped 1psi even at 3k on his oil and at 2200 on M1 it did so thers my conclusion u dont gotto balieve i believe some people do have good luck with it, it worked well in my monte carlo ss but my car just doesnt seem to like it
02-09-2006, 03:18 PM
#69
Originally Posted by ynkssws6
why not try the german castrol instead? Just an idea, i know it's hard to get for some people. If not stick with the mobil 1
02-22-2006, 09:07 AM
#72
Originally Posted by TXZ28LS1
what bout regular oil..like castrol gtx.. or how about castrol syntec. is this stuff any good. i ran castrol gtx 10w-30 on my 2000 z28, and i didnt have any piston slap issues, or oil consumption. my car ran fine to me.
change it on a regular basis, and your engine will last 150,000 miles just fine too.
the only diff between the two is when you tear it apart... the engine with mobile 1 all its life will still have the crosshatch visible... most of the motor will look like the day it was assembled.
with conventional oil, it will look like a regular motor... the cyls will have a slight glaze to them, and normal wear will be there.
so while the synthetic is clearly protecting better, its not like this effects the normal person who just drives the car daily... in the end, we all get about the same miles out of the motor.
02-22-2006, 10:18 AM
#73
thanks mr.dude, thats good to know. i know a few people here just stick with regular oil. hey would it be best to run 10w-30 like i did with regular castrol gtx or should i have went with 5w-30 in the future. i know patman said the castrol gtx is an outstanding oil. but he said run 10w-40
02-22-2006, 10:30 AM
#74
Originally Posted by TXZ28LS1
thanks mr.dude, thats good to know. i know a few people here just stick with regular oil. hey would it be best to run 10w-30 like i did with regular castrol gtx or should i have went with 5w-30 in the future. i know patman said the castrol gtx is an outstanding oil. but he said run 10w-40
i personally run a thinner multiweight oil because i want the least amount of drag, lower pumping loss, and i want the oil to flow quickly on startup.
so i run 5w-30....
but realisticly, anything from 0w-30 on up to as high as 15w-40 will work...
03-02-2006, 11:59 PM
#75
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correct me if i am wrong because maybe im way off on this one here but as far as i know its bad to switch from one oil to another at any point. Not that doing it occasionally is going to greatly reduce the life of the engine but every company puts in their own additives into their oil. The additives dont always react well together. The one thing you might notice is that an engine that has run the same brand since day 1 can look pretty close to the way it did when it left the factory. Someone that switches oils from week to week with the jiffy lube special and then castrol and then quakerstate (...etc) looks horrible when you put it next to the other engine that ran the same thing its entire life.
If you started with mobil 1 one then stick with it. Also Mobil one is rated SM ( i think it is SM) which is rated above most oils which i believe are SL. I have no idea what royal purple is rated at but thats why my vote is for mobil 1.
If you started with mobil 1 one then stick with it. Also Mobil one is rated SM ( i think it is SM) which is rated above most oils which i believe are SL. I have no idea what royal purple is rated at but thats why my vote is for mobil 1.
03-06-2006, 07:46 AM
#77
Originally Posted by GO BABY GO
correct me if i am wrong because maybe im way off on this one here but as far as i know its bad to switch from one oil to another at any point. Not that doing it occasionally is going to greatly reduce the life of the engine but every company puts in their own additives into their oil. The additives dont always react well together. The one thing you might notice is that an engine that has run the same brand since day 1 can look pretty close to the way it did when it left the factory. Someone that switches oils from week to week with the jiffy lube special and then castrol and then quakerstate (...etc) looks horrible when you put it next to the other engine that ran the same thing its entire life.
If you started with mobil 1 one then stick with it. Also Mobil one is rated SM ( i think it is SM) which is rated above most oils which i believe are SL. I have no idea what royal purple is rated at but thats why my vote is for mobil 1.
If you started with mobil 1 one then stick with it. Also Mobil one is rated SM ( i think it is SM) which is rated above most oils which i believe are SL. I have no idea what royal purple is rated at but thats why my vote is for mobil 1.
03-06-2006, 09:28 AM
#78
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I just got my car and Im not sure what it had in it, but I assume non synthetic oil. I changed the oil right away to get on MY schedule. I put in Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic 5W-30. Any comments?
03-06-2006, 01:58 PM
#79
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Also looking to change over to 5-30 or 10-30 platinum pennzoil. The oil analysis looks preety good. Im running royal purple 10-30 and want to switch to something a bit cheaper and easier to find. Patman what are your recommendations on the Platinum pennzoil and what weight would you recommend for the Ls1.
03-06-2006, 02:45 PM
#80
i cant comment on the pennzoil full syn, but i can on their regular..
pennzoil is wax based, not ash based.. if you get regular and you dont change it ad often as you should, you will get a waxy buildup inside the motor... its nasty thick gunky stuff too..
for that reason, ive always shyed away from pennzoil... although, if you are never lazy about changing it, you wont get much buildup.
pennzoil is wax based, not ash based.. if you get regular and you dont change it ad often as you should, you will get a waxy buildup inside the motor... its nasty thick gunky stuff too..
for that reason, ive always shyed away from pennzoil... although, if you are never lazy about changing it, you wont get much buildup.