View Poll Results: Should I make the switch to Royal Purple?
Yes
137
39.60%
No
209
60.40%
Voters: 346. You may not vote on this poll
Mobil 1 or switch to Royal Purple?
03-06-2006, 02:55 PM
#81
Originally Posted by MrDude_1
that is SOOOOO not true.
think about this:
we can all agree that the most engine wear occurs at startup, when the engine does not have the full VOLUME of fluid running thru it yet.
a thinner oil pumps quicker and can get into the bearings sooner.
a thicker oil will show PRESSURE sooner, but takes longer to pump around the motor.
sitting overnight, they both will have runoff.
if they're synthetic, both should also leave a rather good film on the parts anyway... so the amount of oil remaining is almost identical.. just because its thicker does NOT mean more oil will stay on there....
in most real life situations, it turns out that the quality synthetic thinner weight oil actually protects better then the thicker oil... even though it reads a lower pressure at times.
think about this:
we can all agree that the most engine wear occurs at startup, when the engine does not have the full VOLUME of fluid running thru it yet.
a thinner oil pumps quicker and can get into the bearings sooner.
a thicker oil will show PRESSURE sooner, but takes longer to pump around the motor.
sitting overnight, they both will have runoff.
if they're synthetic, both should also leave a rather good film on the parts anyway... so the amount of oil remaining is almost identical.. just because its thicker does NOT mean more oil will stay on there....
in most real life situations, it turns out that the quality synthetic thinner weight oil actually protects better then the thicker oil... even though it reads a lower pressure at times.
To answer the poll in this thread, I say stock with Mobil 1. Thats what Gm reccommends, and if its good enough to be factory fill in Corvettes, Vipers, Mercedes, and Porsches, then its just as good for the LS1. I honestly don't think you'll see much, if any, benefit from switching to RP from Mobil 1.
03-15-2006, 09:21 PM
#82
I guess this has gotten way over my head, cuz I am confused now. When I start my car I get some noise, maybe piston slap may be a lifter i dunno. My oil pressure is great, 30-40 lbs. at idle and around 60 driving. Should I switch to a thicker oil or a different brand. I am running 5-30 Mobil 1. 
03-30-2006, 02:33 AM
#84
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ok, most 5 or 10w30, no matter what brand, thin out. Which means that when they thin out, they are more like a 20 weight instead of a 30 weight. Therefore, it is optimal to run a thicker oil ie:
1)GC 0W30( this oil is almost a 40 weight and the 0 part means it does great for cold startups)
2)Belgian Castrol Syntec 5W40( This is made in Belgium henceforth Belgian Castrol)
3)M1 5W40 for all the M1 fans out there. Prob the best oil M1 has.
4)Amsoil 5W40 Euro Formula. Great reviews.
5)RP 21 or 41 Racing Formula( I dont know much about these but have heard good things
6)Redline 5W40. Same as above
as a side note, M1 0W40 is not a bad choice either, HOWEVER, it is known to thin out over the life of the oil change interval. Therefore, if you change oil every 3k or so, it is fine. If you plan on running a long OCI, i would prob not consider it. Check Bobistheoilguy.com for reviews on almost all of these oils.
All in all, i think you can see the pattern, RUN A THICKER OIL!!!
1)GC 0W30( this oil is almost a 40 weight and the 0 part means it does great for cold startups)
2)Belgian Castrol Syntec 5W40( This is made in Belgium henceforth Belgian Castrol)
3)M1 5W40 for all the M1 fans out there. Prob the best oil M1 has.
4)Amsoil 5W40 Euro Formula. Great reviews.
5)RP 21 or 41 Racing Formula( I dont know much about these but have heard good things
6)Redline 5W40. Same as above
as a side note, M1 0W40 is not a bad choice either, HOWEVER, it is known to thin out over the life of the oil change interval. Therefore, if you change oil every 3k or so, it is fine. If you plan on running a long OCI, i would prob not consider it. Check Bobistheoilguy.com for reviews on almost all of these oils.
All in all, i think you can see the pattern, RUN A THICKER OIL!!!
04-06-2006, 03:10 PM
#86
Originally Posted by JLMoses
My car drank Mobil 1 5w30 oil like it was water...so i changed to RP 10w30 and so far i have been VERY pleased...
04-10-2006, 09:16 AM
#89
Originally Posted by SSDude
Moderator, please kill this thread. It has outlived its usefulness.
i STRONGLY disagree.
alot of people are going to want to know/read/debate oil on here.
atleast with this thread, most things were already said.
if this one dies, and drops to the bottom, someone is just going to make a new thread, and we're starting back from square one again.... with the same things that were already said.
theres no reason to kill this thread, it hasnt gotten down to stupid fighting, personal bashing, or anything of that nature...
04-11-2006, 02:58 PM
#93
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Originally Posted by Cheatin' Chad
I don't like Mobil1 or Royal Purple. Do a search for Patman and oil and you'll get a good deal of info on this subject.
04-11-2006, 03:55 PM
#95
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Has it been concluded that the Gold German Castrol is just as effective as the Green stuff was? I know the Green > * ... but I haven't seen any oil analysis' done on the Gold stuff or don't recall any final word from Patman about the new formula.
BTW ... what weights are you guys running with the Mobil 1? My car used to go thru 5w30 pretty quickly back when I used it.
BTW ... what weights are you guys running with the Mobil 1? My car used to go thru 5w30 pretty quickly back when I used it.
04-17-2006, 12:03 AM
#96
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SO what type of oil is everyone recommending. I personally have a 6.0 witha 1000 miles on it that I have been doing the oil break in period. does anyone know how the castrol partial synethic works out in the silver jug.
04-18-2006, 01:48 AM
#97
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Best oils found after testing in the Australian Street commodore magazine were,
Valvoline DuraBlend 10w-40 with a bearing showing a 3mm scar @ 8lb load rating.
Royal purple 10w-40 1.5mm scar @ 8lb
Royal purple racing 51 1mm scar @ 8lb
Penrite syn 5 5w-60 1mm scar @ 8lb
The FABULOUS MOBIL 1 8mm scar @ only 2lb
Your choice guys but i have also seen the wear on my bearings after always using Mobil 1 at only 30,000 mls
Valvoline DuraBlend 10w-40 with a bearing showing a 3mm scar @ 8lb load rating.
Royal purple 10w-40 1.5mm scar @ 8lb
Royal purple racing 51 1mm scar @ 8lb
Penrite syn 5 5w-60 1mm scar @ 8lb
The FABULOUS MOBIL 1 8mm scar @ only 2lb
Your choice guys but i have also seen the wear on my bearings after always using Mobil 1 at only 30,000 mls
06-11-2006, 06:46 PM
#98
Originally Posted by GTOTitoLS1
mobil 1 is good , but it all depends on what you have. I personaly don't like it, GM only recommends mobil 1 on vette LS1, not all LS1, there is a slight difference in vette LS1 and camaro and tran Ls1, stock Ls1 on camaro was only 325hp versus LS1 on vette stock output 350h, anyways the oil pump on vette LS1 is different , suction screen changes, but like I said mobil 1 is still pretty good for any motor, in some camaros , mobil 1 produces a ticking sound , and GM does not recommend mobil 1 on 2004 GTO LS1 that has 350hp, I personaly like Q oil 5w30 and in summer I use Q 10w30 , Mobil 1 was turning dark to fast after I made it twin turbo. But that's my oppinion.
06-11-2006, 10:38 PM
#100
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Originally Posted by MrDude_1
i cant comment on the pennzoil full syn, but i can on their regular..
pennzoil is wax based, not ash based.. if you get regular and you dont change it ad often as you should, you will get a waxy buildup inside the motor... its nasty thick gunky stuff too..
for that reason, ive always shyed away from pennzoil... although, if you are never lazy about changing it, you wont get much buildup.
pennzoil is wax based, not ash based.. if you get regular and you dont change it ad often as you should, you will get a waxy buildup inside the motor... its nasty thick gunky stuff too..
for that reason, ive always shyed away from pennzoil... although, if you are never lazy about changing it, you wont get much buildup.
