Lookin At A Cam, Got ?'s
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,221
Likes: 1
From: Skiatook, OK
Lookin At A Cam, Got ?'s I'm lookin to get a cam off a member on my local board, it has under 100 miles on it & is in new condition. He forgot to tell me the LSA but here are the other specs.
232"/238" .574"/.586"
He stated it was a custom grind. I was just curious if this was good specs. I'm not too educated in cam specs yet but am tryin to learn. Also what other parts would be needed to run a cam with these specs in a daily driver.
Thaknx for any help,
Mike
232"/238" .574"/.586"
He stated it was a custom grind. I was just curious if this was good specs. I'm not too educated in cam specs yet but am tryin to learn. Also what other parts would be needed to run a cam with these specs in a daily driver.
Thaknx for any help,
Mike
Thats not a extreamly agressive grind but will definetly wake the car up. You will also need valve springs, hardened push rods, crank pully bolt water pump gaskets, timeing cover gasket, and timeing cover seal. You could also put in TI retainers in for you valve springs and a new oil pump both are not needed but wouldn't hurt. Call texas speed or thunder they sell cam gasket kits. Good luck.
Conan....
I know nothing.....
Is all that REALLY necessary? or just a god idea or the "Hot set Up" since you in the beast....
The springs I get..the gaskets and seal I get since you have to pull them to get to the cam..
But for a daily driver..do you really need to replace the push rods..
But if the grind isnt much over "stock" (BTW what is stock)...is all that necessary..or just a good idea...
I know nothing.....
Is all that REALLY necessary? or just a god idea or the "Hot set Up" since you in the beast....
The springs I get..the gaskets and seal I get since you have to pull them to get to the cam..
But for a daily driver..do you really need to replace the push rods..
But if the grind isnt much over "stock" (BTW what is stock)...is all that necessary..or just a good idea...
That's a fairly agressive cam as far as duration goes. Lift is average.
Yes you will need new springs and pushrods at a minimum. The stock rods will be the weakest link if you don't replace them they will fail eventually and that does BIG damage. For about $150 its cheap insurance.
Here is an example of why to upgrade rods:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/439293-bent-broken-pushrods-need-help.html
Yes you will need new springs and pushrods at a minimum. The stock rods will be the weakest link if you don't replace them they will fail eventually and that does BIG damage. For about $150 its cheap insurance.
Here is an example of why to upgrade rods:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/439293-bent-broken-pushrods-need-help.html
Originally Posted by BitViper
Conan....
I know nothing.....
Is all that REALLY necessary? or just a god idea or the "Hot set Up" since you in the beast....
The springs I get..the gaskets and seal I get since you have to pull them to get to the cam..
But for a daily driver..do you really need to replace the push rods..
But if the grind isnt much over "stock" (BTW what is stock)...is all that necessary..or just a good idea...
I know nothing.....
Is all that REALLY necessary? or just a god idea or the "Hot set Up" since you in the beast....
The springs I get..the gaskets and seal I get since you have to pull them to get to the cam..
But for a daily driver..do you really need to replace the push rods..
But if the grind isnt much over "stock" (BTW what is stock)...is all that necessary..or just a good idea...
Oil pump & Titainium retainers: the oil pump is just because you are almost there to replace it when your doing the cam swap. The ti retainers are for valve train stability the lighter weight parts move better at higher RPMs than the heaver stock hardwhere. Those are not a must but would benifit.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,221
Likes: 1
From: Skiatook, OK
Yea I wanna do it right the first time. I plan on gettin the cam & then a LS6 intake. After those bigger purchases I am gonna start gettin all the pieces I need to install it so it will last. It is my daily driver & I do drive spirited.
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Originally Posted by conan
The cam is on the agressive side its not the most extream cam for the lsx. The stock ls1 cam is 198/208 DUR and .500" lift, the ls6 is 204/218 DUR and .550" lift, So the the cam he is getting is alot bigger than stock. The stock push rods will bend with the stiffer valve spring. If you dont change the springs to something stiffer you will get valve float. See where this is going. The gaskets: Thunder sells a GM/AC delco kit (water pump, timeing cover gasket, seal and crank bolt) for $58 so for that little amount of money why skimp on the little details.
Oil pump & Titainium retainers: the oil pump is just because you are almost there to replace it when your doing the cam swap. The ti retainers are for valve train stability the lighter weight parts move better at higher RPMs than the heaver stock hardwhere. Those are not a must but would benifit.
Oil pump & Titainium retainers: the oil pump is just because you are almost there to replace it when your doing the cam swap. The ti retainers are for valve train stability the lighter weight parts move better at higher RPMs than the heaver stock hardwhere. Those are not a must but would benifit.
Hey Thanks..see you ask smart people stuff you get answers!