Broke bolt off in crank, now what?
01-27-2006, 06:35 PM
#21
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I don't think I'd like to pound anything onto my crank. The bolt broke off because it was seized on something and I seriously doubt and easyout type contraption is going to do anything productive. I guess I'm just going to have to try and seat the pulley with a rubber mallet and run it that way until I can afford to build my motor. That is of course unless there's a way to drill the bolt until there's just a thread "shell" and then extract that somehow.
01-27-2006, 06:42 PM
#22
Originally Posted by Zeus
I don't think I'd like to pound anything onto my crank. The bolt broke off because it was seized on something and I seriously doubt and easyout type contraption is going to do anything productive. I guess I'm just going to have to try and seat the pulley with a rubber mallet and run it that way until I can afford to build my motor. That is of course unless there's a way to drill the bolt until there's just a thread "shell" and then extract that somehow.
01-27-2006, 06:51 PM
#23
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Originally Posted by Griswold
get a piece of threaded rod and some washers and a nut. you will thank me later
01-27-2006, 08:52 PM
#24
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Originally Posted by DavidNJ
I don't think I would like to pound like that on the crank:
01-27-2006, 09:01 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by Zeus
I don't think I'd like to pound anything onto my crank. The bolt broke off because it was seized on something and I seriously doubt and easyout type contraption is going to do anything productive. I guess I'm just going to have to try and seat the pulley with a rubber mallet and run it that way until I can afford to build my motor. That is of course unless there's a way to drill the bolt until there's just a thread "shell" and then extract that somehow.
People have installed balencers with a hammer and a block of wood. I'm not saying that's the way to do it, but it has been done successfully. A bit of tapping with a hammer won't hurt it one bit.
You're going to have to drill one way or another, so pick your poison.
01-27-2006, 10:03 PM
#26
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Just put the new pully on and weld it secure...or you could put some set screws in by drilling half of pully and half of the crank snout. There are lots of ways to hold the pully on other the the factory way,,,,but its up to u
01-28-2006, 05:29 AM
#27
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If you do decide to drill it out and use an 'easy out', be really careful not to break the drill bit off in there... Take your time and be easy with it.
It's easy to drill a hole in a bolt, but it is a MF to drill a hole in a bolt with a drill bit broke off in it... (This I know!)
Good luck, Hope it all works out for you.
James
It's easy to drill a hole in a bolt, but it is a MF to drill a hole in a bolt with a drill bit broke off in it... (This I know!)
Good luck, Hope it all works out for you.
James
01-28-2006, 08:18 AM
#28
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Originally Posted by RSB
You could try a rosette weld.
Take the head of the bolt you have left over, and drill a fairly large hole in it inline with what would be the bolt shank. Try not to disturb the broken part too much. The idea is to put it against the piece broken inside the snout, clocking it so it matches as best as you can, and then weld through the hole into the end of the broken bolt, and filling up the drilled hole with weld. The weld should be stronger than the bolt depending upon the filler material selection and your proficiency. Hopefully the heat will help loosen things up too. You might get lucky.
An easy out will almost certainly not work because they're typically too brittle, and you just can't develop enough torque in a situation where the torque value being applied was enough to shear off a fastener with more cross section than the easy out.
Take the head of the bolt you have left over, and drill a fairly large hole in it inline with what would be the bolt shank. Try not to disturb the broken part too much. The idea is to put it against the piece broken inside the snout, clocking it so it matches as best as you can, and then weld through the hole into the end of the broken bolt, and filling up the drilled hole with weld. The weld should be stronger than the bolt depending upon the filler material selection and your proficiency. Hopefully the heat will help loosen things up too. You might get lucky.
An easy out will almost certainly not work because they're typically too brittle, and you just can't develop enough torque in a situation where the torque value being applied was enough to shear off a fastener with more cross section than the easy out.
I have never heard of that but it sounds like a really good idea!
01-28-2006, 11:44 AM
#30
I don't think you are going to able to use any type of extractor. I don't think welding anything will work either. You had to put alot of torque on it to get to the point of breaking that bolt. If you feel that there is 1/2 inch left, then that 1/2 inch is going to at least just hard if not harder to get out. Basically you will be cutting another 1/2 inch of threads with an already stressed crank bolt. I think I would do what someone mentioned earlier and drill it out and re-tap it a larger size.
01-29-2006, 11:28 AM
#31
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Originally Posted by Zeus
I don't think I'd like to pound anything onto my crank. The bolt broke off because it was seized on something and I seriously doubt and easyout type contraption is going to do anything productive. I guess I'm just going to have to try and seat the pulley with a rubber mallet and run it that way until I can afford to build my motor. That is of course unless there's a way to drill the bolt until there's just a thread "shell" and then extract that somehow.
I like the rossette idea, and I would try it first. Another option may be to drill a near perfectly centered hole thru the broken bolt and then continue to enlargen the hole until the bolt is week enough to break apart. I have done this successfully before (not on crank bolts).
01-29-2006, 05:13 PM
#32
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One thing i have done on other bolts that have broken is drill a hole in the remaining part, Use a left hand tap to make some new, SMALLER threads in the broken bolt, Then you can take a left hand bolt and thread it into the broken bolt. As you tighten the left hand bolt, it should extract the broken bolt.
As other poeple have mentioned, it is lodged in there pretty good, so heat will be a great help if you can heat up the end of the crank snout while trying to take it out.
Good luck with whatever you end up doing... -Jeff
As other poeple have mentioned, it is lodged in there pretty good, so heat will be a great help if you can heat up the end of the crank snout while trying to take it out.
Good luck with whatever you end up doing... -Jeff
01-29-2006, 06:07 PM
#33
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Originally Posted by Black Z/28
It seems obvious to me as well- yet some still seem to argue about it. It didn't take much reading for me to understand that once you get this long bolt seated, ain't no way you're gonna strip out the hole:
01-29-2006, 06:35 PM
#34
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This method takes time but usually works:
Drill a pilot hole down the center using about a 1/8 drill, be sure it's centered and straight. Then follow the pilot with progressively larger bits until you are just smaller than the threads. you can then use a punch, easy out etc. to loosen the bolt threads from the cranks threads. Run a tap in to clean up the threads and then put the pulley back on with threaded rod and a nut, followed by a new bolt.
Good luck.
Drill a pilot hole down the center using about a 1/8 drill, be sure it's centered and straight. Then follow the pilot with progressively larger bits until you are just smaller than the threads. you can then use a punch, easy out etc. to loosen the bolt threads from the cranks threads. Run a tap in to clean up the threads and then put the pulley back on with threaded rod and a nut, followed by a new bolt.
Good luck.
01-29-2006, 08:02 PM
#35
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Originally Posted by DaddySS
This method takes time but usually works:
Drill a pilot hole down the center using about a 1/8 drill, be sure it's centered and straight. Then follow the pilot with progressively larger bits until you are just smaller than the threads. you can then use a punch, easy out etc. to loosen the bolt threads from the cranks threads. Run a tap in to clean up the threads and then put the pulley back on with threaded rod and a nut, followed by a new bolt.
Good luck.
Drill a pilot hole down the center using about a 1/8 drill, be sure it's centered and straight. Then follow the pilot with progressively larger bits until you are just smaller than the threads. you can then use a punch, easy out etc. to loosen the bolt threads from the cranks threads. Run a tap in to clean up the threads and then put the pulley back on with threaded rod and a nut, followed by a new bolt.
Good luck.
That method is the least likely to wreck anything.
01-29-2006, 10:25 PM
#37
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Originally Posted by Ryan02SS
You must have been cranking like hell on it to break that bolt!!!!
Using a center punch, punch a hole dead center in the broken off bolt. Use the correct size drill bit to drill through the bolt. Use the correct size EZ out to extract the bolt. This should work pretty easily. It's a blind hole so it will have to be extracted from the front. I'm not sure if the bolt is hardened steel or not but you might have to invest in some $$ titanium bits if it is.
Using a center punch, punch a hole dead center in the broken off bolt. Use the correct size drill bit to drill through the bolt. Use the correct size EZ out to extract the bolt. This should work pretty easily. It's a blind hole so it will have to be extracted from the front. I'm not sure if the bolt is hardened steel or not but you might have to invest in some $$ titanium bits if it is.
01-29-2006, 11:59 PM
#38
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Originally Posted by 2xLS1
That looks like the one I used to sell. I stopped because I flamed by a lot of people here that my tool was too expensive and everyone should just go buy the $3 longer bolt. I got tired of defending it. My tool was cheaper than fixing fucked up crank threads. Maybe I should start selling them again.
01-30-2006, 02:00 AM
#39
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I broke my crank bolt off at the threads trying to torque it down. The pulley was already seated and I was nowhere near the correct torque. broke like 2" inside the snout. It was a new bolt too. so don't know really why it broke.
I tried easy outs, reverse threaded bolts. I wasn't comfortable heating the crank, seems to me it wouldn't be good on the front bearings with a really hot crank sitting in them. maybe its alright.
Since I had a decent amount of crank left I tapped it and used a shorter larger bolt. The broken piece remains in there. forever.
I tried easy outs, reverse threaded bolts. I wasn't comfortable heating the crank, seems to me it wouldn't be good on the front bearings with a really hot crank sitting in them. maybe its alright.
Since I had a decent amount of crank left I tapped it and used a shorter larger bolt. The broken piece remains in there. forever.
01-30-2006, 02:22 AM
#40
Originally Posted by DaddySS
This method takes time but usually works:
Drill a pilot hole down the center using about a 1/8 drill, be sure it's centered and straight. Then follow the pilot with progressively larger bits until you are just smaller than the threads. you can then use a punch, easy out etc. to loosen the bolt threads from the cranks threads. Run a tap in to clean up the threads and then put the pulley back on with threaded rod and a nut, followed by a new bolt.
Good luck.
Drill a pilot hole down the center using about a 1/8 drill, be sure it's centered and straight. Then follow the pilot with progressively larger bits until you are just smaller than the threads. you can then use a punch, easy out etc. to loosen the bolt threads from the cranks threads. Run a tap in to clean up the threads and then put the pulley back on with threaded rod and a nut, followed by a new bolt.
Good luck.
They used a drill bit a little smaller than the THREADS and drilled the bolt out, the old bolt got weaker and weaker, then crumbled and came out.
Another option is to remove the motor from the car, and the crank from the block, then have a machine shop get it out. If they mess the threads up, they can drill/tap a new hole in there that will be stronger than stock.
You can drill and tap the crank yourself, the worst thing that can happen is you mess it up, then you can take it to the machine shop
If you dont feel like messing with that, and the pulley is on far enough. Weld the pulley to the crankshaft, and get ready to buy new stuff when you get ready for the new motor. This sounds harsh, but at least its a quick and dirty method. I warn you, the pulley has to be seated or you will have more oil coming out of the front cover than you can imagine.