i'm sure the large bolts can handle it (mine did), but the small ones are a different story - my wrench had extra play in it and i ended up turning about 270 degrees extra on one of them and snap

 

this will not destroy them all u are doing is cutting the tips/sharp point off. so leave about 1/4 and you will be fine. like all/most push/pull fastners, some are easy to pull out, some will be detroyed when pulled out. I should have been more clear on this . u wont have to deal w/ this again. I see u got head off. this mostly applies to driver side, but hand does go under dash at both ends. just my .02

fuerzaws6

 

I've unfastened mine a number of times and they still work fine..have not replaced any yet..

 

"yet" cool it works for you. buddy pulled them out and need to replace 3 of them. dont cost much, but will add up. me, "0" .



fuerzaws6

 

Pulling one of the water jacket plugs in the block would help to cut down on the coolant getting all over the place. I wish I had don't that one. The wet/dry shop idea is also a good idea. If you have a compressor you can use your air nozzle to get the remaining coolant out of the bolt holes that the paper towels don't wick up. One of the last things I did was to pull the drain plug in my oil pan and I was glad I did because the first thing that came flowing out of the drain hole was coolant. It wasn't a lot, but I guess some of the coolant went into the cylinders when the heads were lifted off and got past the rings before I could soak it up with paper towels. That might be another thing to check before you turn the key.

 

I have never done that, and have done several head swaps. My arms don't thank me for changing valve springs while head is on the block.

 

Looks like the goober method strikes again...I am willing to be that he did not come up with this idea first. He learned from a few of the best.

 

Here's my set up for cleaning out the bolt holes. They were pretty nasty. Cut 2 of the original bolts with a dremel to use as a tap, break parts cleaner, small hose attached to compressor to get down to the bottom of the holes (used the small red tube from a wd40 can, inserted into the clear plastic tubing, to get to the bottom of the 10 small holes) and taped everything off to keep the mess out.

 

be paticent(sp) and have fun

 

If you don't want to ruin your shop vac just take the coolant plug out of the block on the passenger side. It is directly above the starter and will drain the entire block.
Also if you leave the radiator cap on and the cooling system pressurized when you remove the plug nothing will leak out. Just take the plug out, put a bucket under the car, then take off the radiator cap and the coolant will begin to drain. No mess at all

 

What size wrench for the block plug??

 

I removed the block plugs when I did a head swap last year and it works well, but I was also changng out the motor mounts which makes it easier to reach the driver side plug. I had to remove the starter to remove the passenger side plug. This go around I used the Shop Vac method before removing the heads and this is the way to go. No mess, a lot less work and you don't have get under the car.
Pics and specs of the block plugs are in this thread if you still want to do it that way, not sure why though.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/335413-afr-s-fast-90-nw-90tb-poly-mounts-fast-rails-finally-done.html

 

The block plug is an 8mm allen head bolt. Be careful taking it out since it is very easy to strip out. I am about to replace it with another type of plug that is easier to remove.

 

I think a good piece of advice is to make sure you clean your deck surface thourghly before puttin on new gaskets and heads. ls1how to says to use a plastic ice scraper, this sucks. it dosent get it clean. I suggest you just use your head and be careful and get a razor blade. Be sure not to gouge the block with the blade.

 

die grinder with a roloc disc is the fastest way to clean gasket material. be sure to put thread sealant back on the coolant plugs before you install it.

 

hey whats the deal with the push rods? Do you always have to get longer ones? How can I tell?

 

indyboom

You can tell by measuring properly with an adjustable pushrod. Geometry and preload is what separates the big horsepower from ok HP. Well it certainly makes a difference when added with everything else.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...light=geometry

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...light=geometry

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...light=geometry