Head swap tips?
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From: Dyess AFB, TX
Head swap tips? I'm going to start pulling my heads tonight and I was wondering if anyone had any tips or tricks that have helped you in the past. I've read the instructions off LS1howto.com and will be using those, but I was wondering if anyone has any tips that aren't in the writing.
I think I have most of the tools except some gear wrenches which I'm going to buy tonight. I'm still trying to decide which ones to get, the adjustable head ones or the reversable ones. If anyone has any tools that helped you but aren't listed in the intructions, let me know those too. Thanks.
I think I have most of the tools except some gear wrenches which I'm going to buy tonight. I'm still trying to decide which ones to get, the adjustable head ones or the reversable ones. If anyone has any tools that helped you but aren't listed in the intructions, let me know those too. Thanks.
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Corpus Christi
look under the windshield above the engine, u will see those sharp plastic clips cut them off with cutters. it will save your hands.
now when you are cleaning bolt holes make sure all matter is out. I used paper towels to absorb oil/antifreeze. cut a used head bolt (longest bolt) cut down center w/ grinder. u will need this to clean threads in the block. keep cleaning threads till you can screw bolt by hand till it hits bottom and screw it out by hand, if you need assistance by any tool, socket for example then u need to clean threads again. dont want to cut corners here or you will crack block. that is the most important thing I can tell you right now since I'm currently doing cam/head swap. cleaned threads yesterday took me about 2 1/2 hours on cleaning threads alone so take your time. you will feel better when installing heads. hope this helps.
fuerzaws6
now when you are cleaning bolt holes make sure all matter is out. I used paper towels to absorb oil/antifreeze. cut a used head bolt (longest bolt) cut down center w/ grinder. u will need this to clean threads in the block. keep cleaning threads till you can screw bolt by hand till it hits bottom and screw it out by hand, if you need assistance by any tool, socket for example then u need to clean threads again. dont want to cut corners here or you will crack block. that is the most important thing I can tell you right now since I'm currently doing cam/head swap. cleaned threads yesterday took me about 2 1/2 hours on cleaning threads alone so take your time. you will feel better when installing heads. hope this helps.
fuerzaws6
Tip I read from another member on the boards here, but I havent tried it yet, but am in the process of a H/C swap. He said before you remove the heads suck the coolant out of the water pump passages with a shopvac, this way there will be no coolant in the heads to splash all over and fill the blind holes. I will be doing this this weekend and seeing how it works.
otherwise, everything has been very straight forward so far...
otherwise, everything has been very straight forward so far...
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YOU do not need to cut off the sharp plastic fasteners that protrude under the cowl..they are push-pull fasteners..just pull them up from the top of the cowl and than push them back down upon completion of your work uner the cowl..no need to destroy them.. 
Works Like a Charm Just edited:
Was able to pull one head tonight...Works like A million dollars$$$
About 10 drips of anitfreeze came out as i was loosening the final head bolts, and all that is in any of the bolt holes is dry factory thread locker! I think the LS1Howto should be changed to state this as an optional method, unless u enjoy doing extra, un-needed work. just my $.02 Still gonna clean the bolt holes for threadlocker, but now it should take only about 30 min max. Sorry i didint take a picture of my dry garage floor, but it is dry. The lilttle red shop rag was there to catch the huge mess!
Hope this helps a lot of people!!
Here is the best proof i could get
Was able to pull one head tonight...Works like A million dollars$$$
About 10 drips of anitfreeze came out as i was loosening the final head bolts, and all that is in any of the bolt holes is dry factory thread locker! I think the LS1Howto should be changed to state this as an optional method, unless u enjoy doing extra, un-needed work. just my $.02 Still gonna clean the bolt holes for threadlocker, but now it should take only about 30 min max. Sorry i didint take a picture of my dry garage floor, but it is dry. The lilttle red shop rag was there to catch the huge mess!
Hope this helps a lot of people!!Here is the best proof i could get
Originally Posted by ilirw325
Just edited:
Was able to pull one head tonight...Works like A million dollars$$$
About 10 drips of anitfreeze came out as i was loosening the final head bolts, and all that is in any of the bolt holes is dry factory thread locker! I think the LS1Howto should be changed to state this as an optional method, unless u enjoy doing extra, un-needed work. just my $.02 Still gonna clean the bolt holes for threadlocker, but now it should take only about 30 min max. Sorry i didint take a picture of my dry garage floor, but it is dry. The lilttle red shop rag was there to catch the huge mess! Hope this helps a lot of people!!
Here is the best proof i could get
Was able to pull one head tonight...Works like A million dollars$$$
About 10 drips of anitfreeze came out as i was loosening the final head bolts, and all that is in any of the bolt holes is dry factory thread locker! I think the LS1Howto should be changed to state this as an optional method, unless u enjoy doing extra, un-needed work. just my $.02 Still gonna clean the bolt holes for threadlocker, but now it should take only about 30 min max. Sorry i didint take a picture of my dry garage floor, but it is dry. The lilttle red shop rag was there to catch the huge mess!
Hope this helps a lot of people!!Here is the best proof i could get
What brand and model shop vac..loooks like the hose was a perfect fit..thank you for the photos and info sir..
Best advice.... Do NOT get in a rush! Take your time so you don't end up doing something stupid like snapping off a valve cover bolt in the head when your 10 minutes away from being finished. 
Originally Posted by jub jub
What a great tip! 
Jub..nice to see you over here..if you ever get up in the ATL area give me a call and we will consume some beverages..take care..
..I PMed you my phone # 
First off the comment about the torque wrench being off by a little bit could spell disaster. I highly disagree. The directions are to tighten to XXlb/ft of torque. Then you need to turn them like 90 degrees and then another 90. So if you are off by a couple degrees that would be the same as being off some with the torque wrench. It's not that precise. As far as tips. Definatly buy a socket for your 3/8" or 1/4" ratchet so you can get the power steering off of the head. That was my biggest pain.
Originally Posted by jub jub
What a great tip!
. Nothing like having to do the job twice because of a stupid mistake that could have and should have been avoided. slt200mph, Was an older shop vac brand and for the hose, just pull off the hard plastic end so you end up with only flexible soft corrugated plastic hose, i think the hose diameter was about 1.5" +/- a little.
Again thanks to goober35 for this method, i just documented it, cause i can see how people can be skeptical of such a simple solution.
Again thanks to goober35 for this method
, i just documented it, cause i can see how people can be skeptical of such a simple solution.