degree Cam need help
degree Cam need help I am getting ready to install a set of AFR 205's. I have comp cam 224/224 581/581 on a 112. I have been told that if I degree the cam I can pick up quite a bit more power. I would definately like to do this, so if anyone knows how or where to find out how please help. What is the best degree wheel kit. I will be doing it with the engine in the car. Thanks Jessie
From the cam sticky at the top of this subforum:
D. Advance and Retard:
- When you see cams specs like 224/224 .563/.563 112+4; the +4 denotes that the cam has 4 degrees of advance ground in.
- Most off the shelf cams have 2 or 4 degrees of advance ground in. This lowers the power band slightly and offers more low end and midrange at the sacrifice of a bit more top end power
- For cams used primarily on the street the advance is best appreciated. For a strip or racing setup 2 or 0 degrees advance will net you more peak power in the upper ranges of the power band
- To find out if you cam has advance ground in you can check on the cam card. Besides the +2, +4, you can determine the number by looking at the intake center line (ICL). Referring back to the T1 cam card you’ll see that it states that those are the specs when installed on a 108 ICL.
- Subtracting the ICL from the LSA will give you the advance: 112 – 108 = 4 using the T1. Or 113 – 109 = 4 using the G5X2.
- Retarding the cam does the opposite of advancing it, it pushes the power band up slightly and gives more top end power.
- With an adjustable timing chain or degreeing the cam you can install the cam at different ICL’s.
- Keep in mind as stated; most cams already have advance ground into them so if you buy an adjustable timing chain and advance 2 degrees you’ll increase the overall advance to 6 degree’s if the cam has 4 degree’s ground in.
- Also with big cams and/or milled heads piston to valve clearances starts becoming an issue. If in doubt always clay the heads and find out your PtV clearance before installing/advancing especially if your cam has a big intake duration as advancing starts the intake valve events sooner.
- Degreeing or installing dot to dot at the said ICL is the best bet.
- When you see cams specs like 224/224 .563/.563 112+4; the +4 denotes that the cam has 4 degrees of advance ground in.
- Most off the shelf cams have 2 or 4 degrees of advance ground in. This lowers the power band slightly and offers more low end and midrange at the sacrifice of a bit more top end power
- For cams used primarily on the street the advance is best appreciated. For a strip or racing setup 2 or 0 degrees advance will net you more peak power in the upper ranges of the power band
- To find out if you cam has advance ground in you can check on the cam card. Besides the +2, +4, you can determine the number by looking at the intake center line (ICL). Referring back to the T1 cam card you’ll see that it states that those are the specs when installed on a 108 ICL.
- Subtracting the ICL from the LSA will give you the advance: 112 – 108 = 4 using the T1. Or 113 – 109 = 4 using the G5X2.
- Retarding the cam does the opposite of advancing it, it pushes the power band up slightly and gives more top end power.
- With an adjustable timing chain or degreeing the cam you can install the cam at different ICL’s.
- Keep in mind as stated; most cams already have advance ground into them so if you buy an adjustable timing chain and advance 2 degrees you’ll increase the overall advance to 6 degree’s if the cam has 4 degree’s ground in.
- Also with big cams and/or milled heads piston to valve clearances starts becoming an issue. If in doubt always clay the heads and find out your PtV clearance before installing/advancing especially if your cam has a big intake duration as advancing starts the intake valve events sooner.
- Degreeing or installing dot to dot at the said ICL is the best bet.
When you degree a cam, your checking to make sure it was ground properly. If you installed the cam dot to dot, and it was ground wrong, then yes, you may gain some power, but, if the cam was ground correctlly from the start, then it will line up dot to dot and you'll be no further ahead in hp than if you hadn't degree'd it. I always check mine just to make sure there correct. You never know whne the cam folks are gunna have a bad day.
