how to check pushrod length?
how to check pushrod length? How do you check pushrod length to make sure you have the right length? I have AFR 205 heads milled .024, stock 03 head gaskets, stock rockers, and a F13 cam. I saw the pushrod checker on Thunder Racing’s site but how do you use it? Are there other ways to check the length? I just want to make sure I get the right pushrods.
Check out the Cam Guide sticky: https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/327734-cam-guide.html
Pushrod checking is about the middle of the document.
Pushrod checking is about the middle of the document.
The best and easiest instructions I've seen so far was written by Tony Mamo yesterday from another post:
Assuming heads are in place with the proper headgasket (or the same thickness shims during mock-up), the following is a quick rundown to check and measure for proper pushrod length:
Install an adjustable PR initially set too small (makes sure cam is on the basecircle of the lobe you are checking)
Bolt down the factory rockers....
Set the adjustable pushrod to zero lash and remove
Measure pushrod, then add .050-.100 to that figure which now represents your pushrod preload into the lifter and the total length of the pushrod your engine requires. This is obviously quickie instructions for a factory rocker arm set-up (pedastal mount).
Install an adjustable PR initially set too small (makes sure cam is on the basecircle of the lobe you are checking)
Bolt down the factory rockers....
Set the adjustable pushrod to zero lash and remove
Measure pushrod, then add .050-.100 to that figure which now represents your pushrod preload into the lifter and the total length of the pushrod your engine requires. This is obviously quickie instructions for a factory rocker arm set-up (pedastal mount).
Thanks for the help guys. I used JRP’s pushrod calculator and cam up with 7.418 so hopefully 7.40 pushrods will work. I guess I can get a thinner head gasket to make it closer to 7.4 but I’m not sure about P to V clearance once I start going thinner. Man it’s always something. I should have left it stock but moding is so much fun.
Last edited by 99 TA; Feb 20, 2006 at 11:25 PM.
Originally Posted by Viper
I have a question on that.
How do you get your fingers in there to turn the adjustable portion once the rockers are torqued down?
How do you get your fingers in there to turn the adjustable portion once the rockers are torqued down?
Keep in mind, i'm using shaft mount rockers, but I took a pair of PR checkers, added a bit of teflon tape to the threads to tighten things up a bit, adjusted the PR checker, installed the rockers, measured lash, repeat until 0 lash acheived, measure PR checkers with 8" micrometer, record the measurements, repeate for all 8 cylinders. go back and add the desired preload to the recorded measurements (i.e. pr checker measured 7.400" + 0.030" preload = new pr length of 7.430").
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That's how I had to do it too.....tedious but it works. You're right Viper, once the rocker is bolted down I couldn't get my fingers in there to turn the adjuster either. That's a good idea to use teflon tape to tighten up the adjuster a little bit. Next time I do this it will go a lot smoother and quicker. Just curious, why are you using calipers to measure the checker instead of trusting the markings?
Originally Posted by TAQuickness
Keep in mind, i'm using shaft mount rockers, but I took a pair of PR checkers, added a bit of teflon tape to the threads to tighten things up a bit, adjusted the PR checker, installed the rockers, measured lash, repeat until 0 lash acheived, measure PR checkers with 8" micrometer, record the measurements, repeate for all 8 cylinders. go back and add the desired preload to the recorded measurements (i.e. pr checker measured 7.400" + 0.030" preload = new pr length of 7.430").
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