Pretty much since my tranny crapped out on me and I had to drive around 150 miles home in 2nd gear around 45-5700 rpms the whole way, my car started cutting off. The low oil light comes on and the SES light comes on then the car starts to die. I changed oil Mobile 1 syn as always and put new trann/converter in it. Took off catback so just runs from exhaust manis to ORY and no 02 sims, but car was tuned around them. Car has 6.0 with Z06 cam and 241 heads. car will idle around 1300 then drop to 750 and die. Even i put foot on gas, car will cut off and die. There is also a surge when i am going down the road about 400 rpm surges when speed remains constant. What is all this mean?

 

have you had your car dyno tuned yet? If not you should do that. It will fix pretty much everything you stated

 

car was tuned January 05 when motor was swapped in. Never cut out until the tranny messed up 3 weeks ago. I got a new tranny put in and it is still doing the same thing. I am just hoping the engine isnt ruined. I have a brand new cam, new heads, QTP headers, Y, FAST 90, TPIS 90, torque converter, pretty much everything external along with 12 bolt, and I need to know if my engine is going to ruin the $6000 I just spent on new parts. Should I just get a new shortblock just in case?

 

not to be an ***, but when is the last time you checked the oil level? also. do you know anyone with a handheld tuner like a Diablo or anything? they can read the DTCs for you.

 

why was the car at 45-5700 rpms? i realize your tranny went out and you only had 2nd gear...but you couldve just went slower and kept the rpms down

 

+1

maybe he did it out of anger. i remember the first time i sent my tranny into limp mode it wouldn't shift out of 2nd...i was upset and ran the dogshit out of it for about a mile, then realized i wasn't doing any good..

 

Tuning was done by computer at a local shop, like I said this never happed before the tranny crapped out. I just changed the oil when I put the new tranny in. And the tranny has been slipping for a few months now and I have had a built 4L60E to put in it, was just waiting til the tranny went out and it finally did. Tranny wouldnt catch until 4500 rpms and I had to go at least 55, imagine going 30 mph for 150 miles. Yes I did it out of impatience and anger, but I made sure the temp of the engine was ok. I think I answered all the Q's, I think I might just go ahead and get a new shortblock.

 

I personally would have rather gone 30MPH for 150 miles...than go 150 miles turning 4500-5700 RPM's...that was pretty dumb

 

pretty dumb? I think personal opinions are just that, personal opinions. Unless you have something productive to add, keep your own opinion to yourself BTW, 32 on ACT

 

hey man..i didnt mean to sound like a smartass or anything. I apologize..It sounds like you have a nice motor there, the first step i would do is find out what code it's throwing...go from there..it may be something really simple..I wouldnt go buy a new shortblock yet, odds are its nothing major, and you could save yourself alot of money by fixing whats wrong with your current motor , instead of buying a new shortblock.

 

Check the block grounds and the grounds on the back of the cylinder head. I have seen those be loose and cause very similar problems.

John

 

You haven't even taken any of the advice of people on the thread. You just decide you are going to get a new shortblock, and not one person has said anything about that. If you want a new shortblock, get one, don't post a useless thread asking whats wrong, and not take anybodys advice.

I think that your engine may be fine, but you need to take a few steps like the rest of us have said, before you go dropping money on something that doesnt need it.

A standardized test doesn't mean you are the sharpest tool in the shed. I've seen plenty of people do great on that test, and I wouldn't trust their common sense with my car.

Atleast you have a number to quantify your intelligence.

 

What is an ACT??

 

I scored 200 in an internet IQ test, So I'm a genius !!! beat that Einstien

 

There are two sensors in the same area that could cause the issues you mention. I would check the wiring harness to the passenger side of the engine. That is where the low oil level sensor and crank sensor are. Knowing the SES codes would help.

 

I will check these tips tomorrow, thanks for the help. I was just stating a number I scored on a test that was used to get me a pretty great academic scholarship. I know I am not a uber-smart guy. I will post results tomorrow.

 

yea so what is an ACT?? I realize it is some sort of test?? Please tell me it has something to do with cars..because there's no point in bringing up test scores if it has nothing to do with cars....i know plenty of people who are on full scholarships to big name schools..and can barely even figure out how to put gas in there car...

 

You could have run low on oil. High RPM low load driving is what GM claims causes the oil consumption problems in the early ls1's. They changed the ring profile in 2001 or so to correct it.

-Geoff

 

A test that colleges look at for accepting kids to their school. (Like SAT)

 

posting college test scores on a techie automotive site is kinda pointless. thats like bringing a ***** to weiner contest.