crank pulley came off, threadlocker?
#21
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
I really don't like the idea of loctite on the threads, its not called for in the manual. With a new pulley and bolt, proper tightening procedure, I think you put yourself at risk of later problems if you have to disassemble again. Just my opinion though.
ilirw325 "I hit the 240 lb ft. with my 250 lb torque wrench and then 37 lb ft. and then got between 100 and 140 extra degrees with out any problems"
Are you saying you torqued it to 240 ft lbs, THEN another 100, and 140 degrees? Each pass separate or 240 degrees beyond the RECOMMENDED 240 ft lbs? Thats the way Im reading it, if thats the case youre REALLY strong, and lucky you didnt shear the head of your bolt off.
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Originally Posted by Importdestroyer
Are you referring to the crank pulley? Balancer? Well it inched forward about an inch and rested on the steering rack, the belt wasnt frayed.
Where did you get the pinning tool from? I want to pin my crank pulley too, but dont know how.
Where did you get the pinning tool from? I want to pin my crank pulley too, but dont know how.
I posted a request on the forum, and one of the guys was cool enough to let me borrow his for the shipping cost ($10 for both ways) I bought a pin for a buck.
There's nothing to pinning it (as long as your drill bit is sharp)15-20min once you get to it.
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
You really need the service manual procedure. Do you have access to a manual?
So is it 100, 120, or 140 degrees past 37 ft lbs?
#28
Originally Posted by Importdestroyer
ilirw325 "I hit the 240 lb ft. with my 250 lb torque wrench and then 37 lb ft. and then got between 100 and 140 extra degrees with out any problems"
Are you saying you torqued it to 240 ft lbs, THEN another 100, and 140 degrees? Each pass separate or 240 degrees beyond the RECOMMENDED 240 ft lbs? Thats the way Im reading it, if thats the case youre REALLY strong, and lucky you didnt shear the head of your bolt off.
Are you saying you torqued it to 240 ft lbs, THEN another 100, and 140 degrees? Each pass separate or 240 degrees beyond the RECOMMENDED 240 ft lbs? Thats the way Im reading it, if thats the case youre REALLY strong, and lucky you didnt shear the head of your bolt off.
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well.... at least you dont own a god damn corvette....
just got my 408 installed..
new bolt, torqued it down like in the manual, loaded it up with red loctite did everything according to the specs posted on this site...
bolt backed out... crank pulley came out and rubbed into my power steering rack and wore two 1/8 holes in it... my steering rack must now be replaced (990 dollars from the dealership) and im not real happy about it... stupid POS damn crank pulley's....
just got my 408 installed..
new bolt, torqued it down like in the manual, loaded it up with red loctite did everything according to the specs posted on this site...
bolt backed out... crank pulley came out and rubbed into my power steering rack and wore two 1/8 holes in it... my steering rack must now be replaced (990 dollars from the dealership) and im not real happy about it... stupid POS damn crank pulley's....
#30
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I have a hard time believing that bolt would come out if you used the instructions from LS1Howto (or that are posted in this thread) as well as put loctite on. I've had mine off and on so many times using the stated sequence never using loctite and never had a problem. Are you sure you did it properly, it's easy to overlook something (like just putting the old bolt back in and torquing it to 240).
#31
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Our torquing methods were in question, no tq wrench, just a lot of pressure with 1.5 ft of extension on it.
The guy didn't even use a torque wrench to begin with...end of story...
Next time, do exactly what the manual says: Torque it down to 240 with old bolt, remove it, thread in the NEW bolt, torque it to 37, followed by additional 100-140 degrees, minding that the flywheel might spin, so you have to disregard those degrees.
FOLLOW the priocedure, and you won't have issues with cranks falling off....this is terrible.....MORON !
I'm sorry this is my first rant ever....I'm a very calm guy...but people...follow simple instructions...don't try to be too inventive...torque specs are there for a reason - engineered reason....
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i work at a dealership here in detroit. its funny actually none of the guys replace the bolt besides me. but none of us torque it down. 1/2 inch impact and its good. i'd say we have prob done over 1000 ls engines this way without a bolt ever coming loose
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Loc-tite 262 and used a 1/2" impact with 145psi line pressure and ran it down until it wouldnt turn it no more. Its not by the book but we were tight on time and done it anyway and hadnt thought about it since.
#34
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Originally Posted by AdamSS
I'm sorry but WTF IS WRONG WITH PEOPLE ???
The guy didn't even use a torque wrench to begin with...end of story...
Next time, do exactly what the manual says: Torque it down to 240 with old bolt, remove it, thread in the NEW bolt, torque it to 37, followed by additional 100-140 degrees, minding that the flywheel might spin, so you have to disregard those degrees.
FOLLOW the priocedure, and you won't have issues with cranks falling off....this is terrible.....MORON !
I'm sorry this is my first rant ever....I'm a very calm guy...but people...follow simple instructions...don't try to be too inventive...torque specs are there for a reason - engineered reason....
The guy didn't even use a torque wrench to begin with...end of story...
Next time, do exactly what the manual says: Torque it down to 240 with old bolt, remove it, thread in the NEW bolt, torque it to 37, followed by additional 100-140 degrees, minding that the flywheel might spin, so you have to disregard those degrees.
FOLLOW the priocedure, and you won't have issues with cranks falling off....this is terrible.....MORON !
I'm sorry this is my first rant ever....I'm a very calm guy...but people...follow simple instructions...don't try to be too inventive...torque specs are there for a reason - engineered reason....
Sounds like youre european or just had 1 too many, here in a america we spell procedure the way I just did. MORON. Yeah hopefully that was your last rant ever.
My buddy has done 3 cam swaps, without mishap, a lot of people without a tq wrench within the specified range, do just tighten the hell out of the crank bolt. Unfortunately, the thread locker we used was a high temp thread sealant, which may have been the problem. We got threadlocker this time around.