Possibly Switching Cam...Reply Please
theres a good video of a tsp 231/237 car in the ls1sounds website,under the cam section,he opens a cutout for ya and everything.From the video it seems like a pretty sick cam,you can hear it pull pretty hard in the upper rpm's.check it out.
lol.. i pussed out big time w/ my cam choice. i was told its a great power under the curve with a good lope, I just don't want to be buying a bottom end....ever. my car has 40k miles i went w/ pp head/cam package. If fear of more money into the car wasn't a problem, I'd go with something like you have already.
Originally Posted by Rescue Ranger
lol.. i pussed out big time w/ my cam choice. i was told its a great power under the curve with a good lope, I just don't want to be buying a bottom end....ever. my car has 40k miles i went w/ pp head/cam package. If fear of more money into the car wasn't a problem, I'd go with something like you have already.
What are the cam specs? 
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From: Houston
okay orangeappeal lol help me out with this one if you chose too.. i got my car done at mti a week ago and i chose a 232/238 595/605 on a 112 and i have a 3600 stall with mti stage 2 e heads.. the stall is defective 
maybe so i dont get my car back for 2 weeks and maybe undergowing another cam... what is a big cam, that people will know damn well that im cammin and makes great mid to high hp and torque, and of course is tunable cause obviously my cam was a bitch to tune.. any suggestions?? and just to let you know this is a daily driver. Thanks
maybe so i dont get my car back for 2 weeks and maybe undergowing another cam... what is a big cam, that people will know damn well that im cammin and makes great mid to high hp and torque, and of course is tunable cause obviously my cam was a bitch to tune.. any suggestions?? and just to let you know this is a daily driver. Thanks Big cams can be a chore to tune. It also depends on your tuning software and the person tuning. 
Anything can be tuned to lope. (just about) Anyway. My cam is on a 115 and will cam hardddddd! what you are looking for is something that has a decent amount of overlap and is not a major monster.
What other supporting mods do you have? that will help determine what type of split you will want to run as well. I think that the traditional split is what you want to stick with for the most part. Just a tad bit higher LSA might help as well.
Anything can be tuned to lope. (just about) Anyway. My cam is on a 115 and will cam hardddddd! what you are looking for is something that has a decent amount of overlap and is not a major monster.What other supporting mods do you have? that will help determine what type of split you will want to run as well. I think that the traditional split is what you want to stick with for the most part. Just a tad bit higher LSA might help as well.
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From: Houston
Originally Posted by orangeapeel
Big cams can be a chore to tune. It also depends on your tuning software and the person tuning. Anything can be tuned to lope. (just about) Anyway. My cam is on a 115 and will cam hardddddd! what you are looking for is something that has a decent amount of overlap and is not a major monster.
What other supporting mods do you have? that will help determine what type of split you will want to run as well. I think that the traditional split is what you want to stick with for the most part. Just a tad bit higher LSA might help as well.
Anything can be tuned to lope. (just about) Anyway. My cam is on a 115 and will cam hardddddd! what you are looking for is something that has a decent amount of overlap and is not a major monster.What other supporting mods do you have? that will help determine what type of split you will want to run as well. I think that the traditional split is what you want to stick with for the most part. Just a tad bit higher LSA might help as well.
Well i have full bolt ons, and want to have a future in the next months using nitrous... with my stage 2 e heads and my 3600 stall.. Jason at Mti will be tuning my car.. Im an 18 year old kid with a good portion of knowlegde about thisstuff but not to the high degree as some of yall do.. What is a good cam choice that has a decent amount of overlap and isnt a major monster that is gonna give me best of both worlds (Performance and a mean lope)
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From: Herndon, VA
Originally Posted by redtail2426
[EDIT] Listen to this 213/237 mp3...http://ls1sounds.com/Borla/borla-ope...am_untuned.wma
Last edited by FUN LS1; Mar 20, 2006 at 10:49 PM.
haha...i like the 233/239 just as much as I like the 232/237. Im torn between the two and I dont think there is enough of a difference between the two to help me make a definative choice. I mean they both make just about the same peak power and the power band is probably so similar you wouldnt even notice a difference unless you looked at a dyno graph. If there is some major difference or reason why one is BETTER than the other...please chime in and end my back-and-forth decision between the two.
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From: Long Island, NY
Originally Posted by nokeman
haha...i like the 233/239 just as much as I like the 232/237. Im torn between the two and I dont think there is enough of a difference between the two to help me make a definative choice. I mean they both make just about the same peak power and the power band is probably so similar you wouldnt even notice a difference unless you looked at a dyno graph. If there is some major difference or reason why one is BETTER than the other...please chime in and end my back-and-forth decision between the two.
MS3, YOUR right there anyway!
Originally Posted by blue2002ss06
Well i have full bolt ons, and want to have a future in the next months using nitrous... with my stage 2 e heads and my 3600 stall.. Jason at Mti will be tuning my car.. Im an 18 year old kid with a good portion of knowlegde about thisstuff but not to the high degree as some of yall do.. What is a good cam choice that has a decent amount of overlap and isnt a major monster that is gonna give me best of both worlds (Performance and a mean lope)
232/238 is a good choice, but I believe that the 114 on that stick would be even better for spray on the wider LSA. I know people are going to chime into this and say that it will only matter if you are laying down a 200+ shot, but if it is a proven nitrous grind....freakin go for it!
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From: Herndon, VA
Yeah, the deciding factor for me might be PTV; I'm going to get some hand-ported LS1 heads, and I want to mill the heads some to increase the quench. I would have thought the 231/237 might be a hair better on the street, but it doesn't sound like what you'd call real streetable in the MP3 I posted above; it lopes as hard as it gets and probably needs a tune bad. What's the overlap on the 231/237? Sounds huge.
I'm hoping with 112+4 on the 233/239 and a good tune I'll get the best of both worlds, great torque curve and a nice peak in the 435 range with a FAST/NW combo. I go to a shop with a Mustang dyno, and I watched their tuner dial in a Comp 228 to 396rwhp (was 335) as part of a cam and pulley only swap for a guy with basic bolt-ons (no lts, but good exhaust). Did it 20 minutes and 3 passes at wide ranging speeds and throttle to fill pretty much all the cells. Both cams look pretty sprayable; I'm thinking a 125 shot is about all I'll risk with stock bottom end, and that's after new rod bolts. Dang it, I'm gonna be beatin' on that 10-bolt like a red-headed step child; it's the weak link in my plan, as in I don't plan to have enough dough for a 12-bolt for several months the way things are going.
I'm hoping with 112+4 on the 233/239 and a good tune I'll get the best of both worlds, great torque curve and a nice peak in the 435 range with a FAST/NW combo. I go to a shop with a Mustang dyno, and I watched their tuner dial in a Comp 228 to 396rwhp (was 335) as part of a cam and pulley only swap for a guy with basic bolt-ons (no lts, but good exhaust). Did it 20 minutes and 3 passes at wide ranging speeds and throttle to fill pretty much all the cells. Both cams look pretty sprayable; I'm thinking a 125 shot is about all I'll risk with stock bottom end, and that's after new rod bolts. Dang it, I'm gonna be beatin' on that 10-bolt like a red-headed step child; it's the weak link in my plan, as in I don't plan to have enough dough for a 12-bolt for several months the way things are going.
FOR THOSE THAT ARE CURIOUS:
231/237 .591/.601 112lsa = 10*
233/239 = 12* overlap
232/234 = 9* overlap
232/238 .595/.605 on a 114LSA = 7*
231/237 .591/.601 112lsa = 10*
233/239 = 12* overlap
232/234 = 9* overlap
232/238 .595/.605 on a 114LSA = 7*
Last edited by orangeapeel; Mar 21, 2006 at 01:50 AM.
if you simply want something that will thump, drop any of the aforementioned cams on a 110 lsa.
play with the ground-in advance for a more nitrous friendly combo...
i'm going with a 110+0 simply because i won't use n2o, nor do i want to give up a few high rpm ponies for more "under the curve" power...i have a 4k stall that will be restalled to 4400, i have no under the curve..
play with the ground-in advance for a more nitrous friendly combo...
i'm going with a 110+0 simply because i won't use n2o, nor do i want to give up a few high rpm ponies for more "under the curve" power...i have a 4k stall that will be restalled to 4400, i have no under the curve..
Originally Posted by s346k
if you simply want something that will thump, drop any of the aforementioned cams on a 110 lsa.
play with the ground-in advance for a more nitrous friendly combo...
i'm going with a 110+0 simply because i won't use n2o, nor do i want to give up a few high rpm ponies for more "under the curve" power...i have a 4k stall that will be restalled to 4400, i have no under the curve..
play with the ground-in advance for a more nitrous friendly combo...
i'm going with a 110+0 simply because i won't use n2o, nor do i want to give up a few high rpm ponies for more "under the curve" power...i have a 4k stall that will be restalled to 4400, i have no under the curve..
As an experiment, I swapped out my 233/235 .644/.598 112LSA +4 cam for a 234/238 .598/.605 114LSA +2 cam. Bad move. Although the new cam made around the same power above 6000 rpm, it lost 20 lb ft of torque at 4000 rpm. That's torque you can FEEL. My DCR dropped from 8.56 to 8.34 with the wider LSA cam. This is one of the reasons why I'm not a big fan of the wide LSA cams with lots of duration. They kill your DCR and kill your mid-range torque. Just look at a dyno sheet of an HPE S cam or an MS3. They are pretty gutless in the 3000-4000 range. Only above 6000 do they begin to shine. The T-Rex on the other hand, builds up some DCR because it's ground on a 109-110 LSA. The mid-range torque of the T-Rex is pretty violent in comparison to the other cams.
BTW, my next cam won't be a T-Rex, but an experimental 223/227 .636/.639 110LSA +0 cam from Thunder Racing. Should maintain my top-end power, but boost my mid-range torque in a BIG way.
Originally Posted by Patrick G
BTW, my next cam won't be a T-Rex, but an experimental 223/227 .636/.639 110LSA +0 cam from Thunder Racing. Should maintain my top-end power, but boost my mid-range torque in a BIG way.
i'm curious to see what the 110+0 will do for my graph between 6-7k. this particular cam on stock heads should peak around 6,200 and carry to ~6,8-6,900 before falling off. it's a 240s duration cam, but nothing like the t-rex. we'll see, i can't wait. i finish my exhaust this week, then i am ready to start purchasing cam swap parts.
Originally Posted by s346k
that looks like it will be a valvespring killer, even if you opt to use softer lobes, you'll still have mad ramp rates. nonetheless, looks like a promising cam for your goals, should offer a boatload of tq in the mid-range with that duration/lsa combo