NOt sure what to do next, except rip the car apart.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 360
Likes: 0
From: Johnsonville, SC; but orginally from GAINESVILLE, FL
NOt sure what to do next, except rip the car apart. I have been chasing issues after the heads and cam job...what I believed was an exhaust leak...well I am not sure anymore.
I replaced the header gaskets, the air system gaskets, the header-collection pipe seals and swapped the plugs, torq'd eveything down to the service manuals recommended specifications and not I am going because I didn't even make it down the road and the sound was back, there is also a new sound and to be perfectly honest, I am out of ideas.
I have dumped so much money into the heads/cam, torq converter and all the tuning and I am tapped for months. I am to nervous to drive the car and well...I guess I will just let it sit. I really don't see myself going to the CRUISIN now, things are just not working in my favor.
This sucks so badly.
Micah
I replaced the header gaskets, the air system gaskets, the header-collection pipe seals and swapped the plugs, torq'd eveything down to the service manuals recommended specifications and not I am going because I didn't even make it down the road and the sound was back, there is also a new sound and to be perfectly honest, I am out of ideas.
I have dumped so much money into the heads/cam, torq converter and all the tuning and I am tapped for months. I am to nervous to drive the car and well...I guess I will just let it sit. I really don't see myself going to the CRUISIN now, things are just not working in my favor.
This sucks so badly.
Micah
Yes, what H/C combo? When do you hear the noise? All the time? Idle, cruise, Sustained rpms? Where does the sound seem to emmanate from? Is it from a particular side? Drv or Pssg? Have you pulled the valve covers? What was your pre load like? Are you using stock lifters, rockers, pushrods? Many possibilities. I don't want to go on and on and sound like a dick but, if you seriously want some help we need details. I feel your pain brother. There is a reason for this...don't let it get you down- just deal with it and learn from it and then pass on this experiance to others on this board and good karma will come your way.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 360
Likes: 0
From: Johnsonville, SC; but orginally from GAINESVILLE, FL
Well, I installed a cam and a set of CNC'd LS6 heads with 918s and hardened pushords and LS6 OEM lifters. I have shorty heads and replaced every single gasket that had to do with the exhaust or air system as well as the plugs. Had the NGK TR6s and returned to the ACDelco Iridiums and ensured all things were torq'd per service manual. When I got the car back together and started it, I heard the valve train much more clearly, but I also heard a grumbling/grinding type sound (wife said she couldn't hear anything) coming from the driver side of the car.
Before I went hunting I had a clicking/slapping sound coming from the driver side of the motor, sounded a lot like an exhaust leak so that is why I replaced all gaskets. The sound wasn't really noticeable during city driving, more during the highway driving. The sound would just be extremely loud and steady, however when you exited and the car's speed slowed, the sound would disapate and often just disappears. I had a buddy of mine with me and he was certain it was an exhaust leak and wanted to hear it idling at his house which was 2 miles from the interestate and by the time I got there the noise was gone. :*****:
After my drive tonight when I got home the car seemed to be fine. I just don't understand. I am certained that if I get on the interstate it would be back. :crazy:
Thanks.
Before I went hunting I had a clicking/slapping sound coming from the driver side of the motor, sounded a lot like an exhaust leak so that is why I replaced all gaskets. The sound wasn't really noticeable during city driving, more during the highway driving. The sound would just be extremely loud and steady, however when you exited and the car's speed slowed, the sound would disapate and often just disappears. I had a buddy of mine with me and he was certain it was an exhaust leak and wanted to hear it idling at his house which was 2 miles from the interestate and by the time I got there the noise was gone. :*****:
After my drive tonight when I got home the car seemed to be fine. I just don't understand. I am certained that if I get on the interstate it would be back. :crazy:
Thanks.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 360
Likes: 0
From: Johnsonville, SC; but orginally from GAINESVILLE, FL
Originally Posted by Doc
Yes, what H/C combo? When do you hear the noise? All the time? Idle, cruise, Sustained rpms? Where does the sound seem to emmanate from? Is it from a particular side? Drv or Pssg? Have you pulled the valve covers? What was your pre load like? Are you using stock lifters, rockers, pushrods? Many possibilities. I don't want to go on and on and sound like a dick but, if you seriously want some help we need details. I feel your pain brother. There is a reason for this...don't let it get you down- just deal with it and learn from it and then pass on this experiance to others on this board and good karma will come your way.
I am not offended by your post and understand completely. In fact, this started when I was visiting family in Jacksonville.
Are u sure you are not just hearing vavle noise. When i drive my car i her what is best described as a sowing machine sound under the hood. It is right behind the gagues as you say. There is no leak in my exhaust what so ever. I know the rockers are not tapping because they are tq to my spec not GM's pos spec.
If it is just a tapping sound under the hood you are going to have to get use to it.
If it is just a tapping sound under the hood you are going to have to get use to it.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 360
Likes: 0
From: Johnsonville, SC; but orginally from GAINESVILLE, FL
Originally Posted by goober35
Are u sure you are not just hearing vavle noise. When i drive my car i her what is best described as a sowing machine sound under the hood. It is right behind the gagues as you say. There is no leak in my exhaust what so ever. I know the rockers are not tapping because they are tq to my spec not GM's pos spec.
If it is just a tapping sound under the hood you are going to have to get use to it.
If it is just a tapping sound under the hood you are going to have to get use to it.
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Originally Posted by heavymetals
What headers are you running?
Those noises that come and go and never appear when your looking for them are all part of being in MOD HELL.
Those noises that come and go and never appear when your looking for them are all part of being in MOD HELL.
Yeah what headers? do they have smog provisions? one of my egr tubes got a crack in it and it was making an exhaust leak. Also, did you check the intake gaskets before you put the intake back on? Might be a small intake leak aswell.
Thank you for the very detailed response. You are not alone. I am having the exact same problem. You donot have an exhaust leak trust me. I have EFI Live and I scanned the car last night. I bet yours is doing the exact same thing. I pulled the valve covers last night. What size pushrods do you have? I have 7.4 Chromoly hardened. I have cnc'd ls6 243 factory castings with 2.05 valves, double springs, and a 228/228 .588/.588 114 comp xer cam. I talked with the folks who sold me the stuff and they asked me to take #1 to td center and measure how many turns I needed to get to the preload 22ft. lbs. I work in a calibration lab by day so, I know that the tq wrench is traceable to NIST. It took me 3 1/2 turns to get to 22ft. lbs. The people who sold me the set up thought that was way too much and were collectively thingking this thing out but "probably were going to send me some shorter pushrods." Like 7.35's . Keep in touch. Come on down to OP if you need to. I am here to help.
yup, doc is right.... valvetrain geometry (i.e. preload) is a VERY important thing to check, and very often ignored by DIY-folks.
Check the geometry first, before you "tear it" apart...
Check the geometry first, before you "tear it" apart...
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 360
Likes: 0
From: Johnsonville, SC; but orginally from GAINESVILLE, FL
Thanks guys, I did torq it to the spec of the service manual, so I was thinking that was good. I am running the stock length hardened pushrods. I am dropping the car off with the local VETTE Shop Owner and he is going to personally drive it. The car only seems to make the noise when I have been cruising on the highway for extended periods of time (at least 10 minutes). After return home and putting it in park at an idle, there is no noise. If I knew how to host and post video clips, so you all can hear it. When the car was started this morning from a cold start it is a normal cold valve train sound, driving around the city (stop and go) things are normal, it is when a load is held for an extended period of time. Trust me it is loud.
I am sure that Kerry will go step by step to get the car right after I apparently screwed it up.
I am sure that Kerry will go step by step to get the car right after I apparently screwed it up.
Originally Posted by Doc
Thank you for the very detailed response. You are not alone. I am having the exact same problem. You donot have an exhaust leak trust me. I have EFI Live and I scanned the car last night. I bet yours is doing the exact same thing. I pulled the valve covers last night. What size pushrods do you have? I have 7.4 Chromoly hardened. I have cnc'd ls6 243 factory castings with 2.05 valves, double springs, and a 228/228 .588/.588 114 comp xer cam. I talked with the folks who sold me the stuff and they asked me to take #1 to td center and measure how many turns I needed to get to the preload 22ft. lbs. I work in a calibration lab by day so, I know that the tq wrench is traceable to NIST. It took me 3 1/2 turns to get to 22ft. lbs. The people who sold me the set up thought that was way too much and were collectively thingking this thing out but "probably were going to send me some shorter pushrods." Like 7.35's . Keep in touch. Come on down to OP if you need to. I am here to help.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 360
Likes: 0
From: Johnsonville, SC; but orginally from GAINESVILLE, FL
Originally Posted by 777
In your case it sounds like you need longer pushrods, not shorter. Like 7.425 or 7.450. I bet this is the current problem with this guy's car as well. I ordered 7.425" pushrods for my car because of the same stuff ya'll are talking about.
My 35th has a similar problem after I installed a set of MAC Headers, I hear a ticking that I thought was a check valve from the AIR system. Well I removed the AIR system and I still have the ticking noise. The noise is bad when it's cold and when the engine is under load, but when the engine is warm and not under load the ticking goes away. I think I have found the source of the noise, it looks like I have a small leak where the header meets the head at the primary tube closest to the firewall. I used brand new GM gaskets when I installed the MACs and I torqued all the bolts properly so I don't understand why it would be leaking but there is a small build up of carbon back there. I'm going to replace the gasket and see if it makes any difference, hopefully it will fix the problem and I won't have to replace the header, just letting you know my situation, it may be something simple with your car as well.