Blown head gasket??
#1
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Well, I've done it again!!
Did a pass yesterday at the track on 150 nitrous dry.
Had to shut down half way, car was loosing power dramaticaly.
Came back to the pits, and there are the symptoms:
1- car puffing heavy white smoke upon reving
2- car doesn't want to hold idle
3- Oil pressure down to 22>25 psi at idle,
4- leaking oil on passenger side front between head and block
5- no valvetrain noice or noticeable knock.
I suspect blown gasket, but I guess I'll have to tear down to find out if there is any block damage, but judging from the oil, I think there is.
Oh well, looks like it might be time for a forged block, this is my second block in the past 1.5 year (stock block)
I'll post some more as I tear down.
Did a pass yesterday at the track on 150 nitrous dry.
Had to shut down half way, car was loosing power dramaticaly.
Came back to the pits, and there are the symptoms:
1- car puffing heavy white smoke upon reving
2- car doesn't want to hold idle
3- Oil pressure down to 22>25 psi at idle,
4- leaking oil on passenger side front between head and block
5- no valvetrain noice or noticeable knock.
I suspect blown gasket, but I guess I'll have to tear down to find out if there is any block damage, but judging from the oil, I think there is.
Oh well, looks like it might be time for a forged block, this is my second block in the past 1.5 year (stock block)
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I'll post some more as I tear down.
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#2
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Sorry to hear what happend man A
.That is the same place were i had oil leaking. The gasket blew on number 2 cyl near the ring and oil was leaking inbetween the gasket and leaking out the front. I changed the gasket and got done today and everthing seems okay.
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#8
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Originally Posted by ninobrn99
of all the advise you give on here you...YOU, blow one stock block and didnt go forged after that
just kidding...
Nino
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Nino
I still didn't get a chance to tear it down. Definately a head gasket but I have to see if any other damage.
Smoke is white, no oil smell from exhaust so 'm keeping my fingers crossed.
Gaskets were stock graphite BTW, and TTY bolts.
I used the graphite due to PTV and my unwillingness to notch the pistons (not to mention the lack of tools to do so here).
#10
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If I was back home in TX, that wouldn't be an issue.
If block is damaged, I'm definately going forged, I would like a 383 so I can keep the heads, cam.
Otherwise there is always the option of forged 347, MS3, while still keeping heads..
Anyways, the next couple of days will determine that.
If block is damaged, I'm definately going forged, I would like a 383 so I can keep the heads, cam.
Otherwise there is always the option of forged 347, MS3, while still keeping heads..
Anyways, the next couple of days will determine that.
#12
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Sounds like you went lean on the spray....run a wideband or at the very minimum a narrowband AFR gauge while on the dope. Also ditch those crappy torque to junk bolts and go with some ARP studs while you have it apart.
Id also go with the GM MLS gasket... Good luck! I recently broke a timing chain at 6000 rpms, heads were toast but the shortblock with new heads is stronger than ever.
The sound it made at the time I thought a rod had went through the fender!
I hope your as fortunate.
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#13
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Wasn't lean, 12.9 on juice, I think the cylinder pressures were just too much for the graphites/?
I have a Wideband Commander.
If block is OK, I just have 1 more race this season so i'm just change the gaskets and bolt it back up. I have a set of GM MLS sitting at home.
Still I want to go All Motor and quit using N2O, at high levels, this thing tears the motor apart eventually, or just use 100 shot for extra help but no more 150>200
This means, TH350, transbrake, 4400 stall, 12 bolt rear and a forged big cammed motor.
Basically a full drivetrain/motor rebuild.
I have a Wideband Commander.
If block is OK, I just have 1 more race this season so i'm just change the gaskets and bolt it back up. I have a set of GM MLS sitting at home.
Still I want to go All Motor and quit using N2O, at high levels, this thing tears the motor apart eventually, or just use 100 shot for extra help but no more 150>200
This means, TH350, transbrake, 4400 stall, 12 bolt rear and a forged big cammed motor.
Basically a full drivetrain/motor rebuild.