Pushrod swap for the mechanically retarded...
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TECH Regular
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 411
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Pushrod swap for the mechanically retarded... Yes, I have been doing my research and still dont' feel comfortable pulling my pushrods (stockers) to check and install new stockers (have them ready to go). Can somebody provide a very detailed step by step of this and maybe use it as a sticky for other people who are new to going internal.
I am comfortable removing everything including the valve covers. My biggest issue is not being clear on once I remove the rockers and check the pushrods how to correctly reinstall, torque, etc. I have been told recently in another post to rotate the crank so that #1 is TDC etc. I need every step after that. Am I rotating the crank each time? Do I torque all pushrods at any given time? See, I need help. Soon as I get the right info I'll get this done.
Thanks for your patience!
I am comfortable removing everything including the valve covers. My biggest issue is not being clear on once I remove the rockers and check the pushrods how to correctly reinstall, torque, etc. I have been told recently in another post to rotate the crank so that #1 is TDC etc. I need every step after that. Am I rotating the crank each time? Do I torque all pushrods at any given time? See, I need help. Soon as I get the right info I'll get this done.
Thanks for your patience!
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 23
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From: Memphis, TN
Ok, go find one of the cam swap How To's. Follow the instructions up to "Remove the Pushrods" and then skip to the reassembly step where it says "Put the pushrods back in." There's nothing to it. You don't torque the pushrods themselves; you torque the rocker arms. Use locktite, 22 lb-ft (I believe), and the search button. 
When tightening the rockers, the only thing to really keep in mind is that the "22 lb-ft" torque is for a rocker with the valve closed completely.
When tightening the rockers, the only thing to really keep in mind is that the "22 lb-ft" torque is for a rocker with the valve closed completely.
Per GM SI website:
1) Install the rocker arms and bolts. Meaning put in the rocker arm bolts till hand tight.
2) Rotate the crankshaft until the number one piston is at top dead center (TDC) of the compression stroke. In this position, cylinder number one rocker arms will be off lobe lift , and the crankshaft sprocket key will be at the 1:30 position. Another way to say it is hand rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation until both valves are closed. You are on the compression cycle for that cylinder. (At this position the valve springs are at their least amount of tension making the job a little easier to do.) The engine firing order is 1,8,7,2,6,5,4,3. Cylinders 1,3,5, and 7 are left bank. Cylinder 2,4,6, and 8 are right bank. Off lobe lift means rotate the crank till both valvesprings come UP on cylinder 1, meaning the valves are closed. If you rotate too far, one valvespring will start to go down ( valve opening) ; simply rotate again till you see them both come up. Use a 24mm socket on the crank with a 3" extension and a breaker bar for rotating.
3) With the engine in the number one firing position, tighten the following valve rocker arm bolts:
• Tighten the exhaust valve rocker arm bolts 1,2,7, and 8 to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
• Tighten the intake valve rocker arm bolts 1,3,4, and 5 to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
4) Rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees
5) Tighten the following valve rocker arm bolts:
• Tighten the exhaust valve rocker arm bolts 3,4,5, and 6 to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
• Tighten the intake valve rocker arm bolts 2,6,7, and 8 to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
1) Install the rocker arms and bolts. Meaning put in the rocker arm bolts till hand tight.
2) Rotate the crankshaft until the number one piston is at top dead center (TDC) of the compression stroke. In this position, cylinder number one rocker arms will be off lobe lift , and the crankshaft sprocket key will be at the 1:30 position. Another way to say it is hand rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation until both valves are closed. You are on the compression cycle for that cylinder. (At this position the valve springs are at their least amount of tension making the job a little easier to do.) The engine firing order is 1,8,7,2,6,5,4,3. Cylinders 1,3,5, and 7 are left bank. Cylinder 2,4,6, and 8 are right bank. Off lobe lift means rotate the crank till both valvesprings come UP on cylinder 1, meaning the valves are closed. If you rotate too far, one valvespring will start to go down ( valve opening) ; simply rotate again till you see them both come up. Use a 24mm socket on the crank with a 3" extension and a breaker bar for rotating.
3) With the engine in the number one firing position, tighten the following valve rocker arm bolts:
• Tighten the exhaust valve rocker arm bolts 1,2,7, and 8 to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
• Tighten the intake valve rocker arm bolts 1,3,4, and 5 to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
4) Rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees
5) Tighten the following valve rocker arm bolts:
• Tighten the exhaust valve rocker arm bolts 3,4,5, and 6 to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
• Tighten the intake valve rocker arm bolts 2,6,7, and 8 to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
Yeah but he shouldnt get hardened pushrods if hes still working with stock springs. If he dfeos and he misses a shift, the pushrods WONT be the ones taking the brunt of the force, the valves WILL be. In other words, Instead of bending a pushrod, he wil bend a valve. Just stick with the stock ones till you upgrade the rest of your valvetrain.
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That is a great write up!
I'll be workig on mine this weekend. Tho, I have 1 question about this:
How does one manually rotate the crankshaft?
Do I need to remove any belts, or will the thing spin easily enough?
I'll be workig on mine this weekend. Tho, I have 1 question about this:
How does one manually rotate the crankshaft?
Do I need to remove any belts, or will the thing spin easily enough?
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Verdad Gallardo From above
"Use a 24mm socket on the crank with a 3" extension and a breaker bar for rotating."
If you can, remove all 8 sparkplugs, it will be a lot easier to rotate. Otherwise you may need to use say the handle from your floor jack over the handle of the breaker bar to rotate it. Also get that front end up in the air, you'll need serious leverage and room to rotate it.
"Use a 24mm socket on the crank with a 3" extension and a breaker bar for rotating."
If you can, remove all 8 sparkplugs, it will be a lot easier to rotate. Otherwise you may need to use say the handle from your floor jack over the handle of the breaker bar to rotate it. Also get that front end up in the air, you'll need serious leverage and room to rotate it.
Originally Posted by Viper
From above
"Use a 24mm socket on the crank with a 3" extension and a breaker bar for rotating."
If you can, remove all 8 sparkplugs, it will be a lot easier to rotate. Otherwise you may need to use say the handle from your floor jack over the handle of the breaker bar to rotate it. Also get that front end up in the air, you'll need serious leverage and room to rotate it.
"Use a 24mm socket on the crank with a 3" extension and a breaker bar for rotating."
If you can, remove all 8 sparkplugs, it will be a lot easier to rotate. Otherwise you may need to use say the handle from your floor jack over the handle of the breaker bar to rotate it. Also get that front end up in the air, you'll need serious leverage and room to rotate it.
Originally Posted by Michael02hawk
Got it - I'll remove the spark plugs! :-)
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,017
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From: Laguna Niguel, CA
Would just changing to hardened pushrods with stock springs be a really BAD idea?
I over-revved my motor (98 ls1) two years ago and I might have bent some pushrods and was going to replace them with hardened pushrods.
I was also hoping to get rid of any deflection that might be occuring with my stock pushrods.
I over-revved my motor (98 ls1) two years ago and I might have bent some pushrods and was going to replace them with hardened pushrods.
I was also hoping to get rid of any deflection that might be occuring with my stock pushrods.
