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What is YOUR A/F at?

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Old Mar 29, 2006 | 02:11 PM
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about 12.9 cam only.
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Old Mar 29, 2006 | 06:34 PM
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Mine was mostly around 13.1 at WOT on the dyno when I got it tuned, however I've got a Vararam so it's possible that at speed the actual a/f ratio is a tad leaner.
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Old Mar 29, 2006 | 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
You guys will likely see some KR before you have to worry about melting ****. I dont see the slightest bit of KR at WOT with 10.85:1 compression and 13.0 Air/Fuel.
Had ZERO knock retard My A/F was obtained via the sniffer in the tail pipe. Anyone else care to chime in like Guitsboy did about not melting ****? Just trying to decide whether or not to have the tune fattened up when I go back.
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Old Mar 29, 2006 | 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by BriancWS6
Had ZERO knock retard My A/F was obtained via the sniffer in the tail pipe. Anyone else care to chime in like Guitsboy did about not melting ****? Just trying to decide whether or not to have the tune fattened up when I go back.
Does this mean you DID melt **** without KR? No power adder?
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Old Mar 30, 2006 | 01:28 AM
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Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
Does this mean you DID melt **** without KR? No power adder?
Naw, the car is 100% fine. I am just trying to get opinions on what to do...either leave the tune as is at the 13.4ish-1 a/f or fatten it up to around 13.0.
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Old Mar 30, 2006 | 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by BriancWS6
Naw, the car is 100% fine. I am just trying to get opinions on what to do...either leave the tune as is at the 13.4ish-1 a/f or fatten it up to around 13.0.
Well if the sniffer was inserted at the tailpipe, its quite easy for outside air to revert into the mix and skew your A:F readings. If the reading however were correct, you are running on the bleeding edge of safety, and whats more, you may even be lean enough to actually LOSE power. My suggestion would be to invest in a wideband if at all possible and go from there, that way you can atleast get a second source to verify your A:F is actualy at 13.4.
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Old Mar 30, 2006 | 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
Well if the sniffer was inserted at the tailpipe, its quite easy for outside air to revert into the mix and skew your A:F readings. If the reading however were correct, you are running on the bleeding edge of safety, and whats more, you may even be lean enough to actually LOSE power. My suggestion would be to invest in a wideband if at all possible and go from there, that way you can atleast get a second source to verify your A:F is actualy at 13.4.
Thanks for the info there man. I know that the car made even more power a bit leaner than that, but we brought it back down to it's current level and didn't lose much at all. So it's not lean to the point of losing power yet. I like the Wideband idea.....I'll always be able to stay on top of things that way. Care to drop a link to the preferred place to get one? Thanks for you and everyones input here.
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Old Mar 30, 2006 | 10:21 PM
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12.9-13.1, made the most power when I pulled timing actually.
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Old Mar 31, 2006 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by VTC_WS6
12.9-13.1, made the most power when I pulled timing actually.
Are you saying that you GAINED power with less timing? Believe it or not but I only had 19-20* timing with the stock tune we bumped it up to 28*.
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Old Mar 31, 2006 | 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by BriancWS6
Are you saying that you GAINED power with less timing? Believe it or not but I only had 19-20* timing with the stock tune we bumped it up to 28*.

01-02 f-body timing tables max out at 22*
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Old Mar 31, 2006 | 07:31 PM
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first run I had was 13.5 a/f and it made 375hp/364tq... got it down to 12.8 and it made 369hp/357tq, but the temp went up 8 degrees.

link to dynosheet - http://mattiroc.com/tapicsbig/100_1815%20(Large).jpg
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Old Mar 31, 2006 | 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by oange ss
01-02 f-body timing tables max out at 22*
Well my tuner specifically said 28*, and I have heard of people asking if someone was running race fuel and 30*+ of timing when freak numbers are posted.

Anyone care to comment on the 22* limit?
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Old Mar 31, 2006 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by BriancWS6
Well my tuner specifically said 28*, and I have heard of people asking if someone was running race fuel and 30*+ of timing when freak numbers are posted.

Anyone care to comment on the 22* limit?
22 is what the later year cars come set to from the factory. Most applications will see increases in HP from bumping the timing up to 28 or so. Few will gain anything past that, and an unlucky handful of cars will actually start to lose power past that. Even running race fuel, more timing may not necessarily give you any more power.
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Old Mar 31, 2006 | 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
22 is what the later year cars come set to from the factory. Most applications will see increases in HP from bumping the timing up to 28 or so. Few will gain anything past that, and an unlucky handful of cars will actually start to lose power past that. Even running race fuel, more timing may not necessarily give you any more power.
Thanks for clearing that up, you've been a great help throughout this thread
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Old Mar 31, 2006 | 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by BriancWS6
Care to drop a link to the preferred place to get one?
I ordered my LC-1 from here: http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=169 It interfaces nicely with HPTuners, although it comes with its own stand alone program. To use the stand alone program you need a laptop with a serial port, or a USB to serial converter. If you dont have HPtuners or even a laptop, then youll need a wideband gauge that will likey add another $50+ to the mix.

Originally Posted by BriancWS6
Thanks for clearing that up, you've been a great help throughout this thread
My pleasure
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Old Mar 31, 2006 | 11:19 PM
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I think mine also was running 28 degrees of timing on ls1edit...
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 05:49 AM
  #37  
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Timing requirements are actually simple. There is no rule of thumb. You dyno, advance timing to max power without pinging and back it up 1*.
Some setups require more, some less. It has to do with your whole combo, but mainly cam VE's and SCR/DCR according to fuel used.
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 06:24 AM
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N/A I was running 13.4 to 1 at WOT. No knock retard and no issues. That was with a TR224 cam. Stil have the cam, but now I'm running forced induction and dropped my A/F to 10.6 to 1. All ratios measured with an AEM wideband welded into the header pipe.
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Old Jul 21, 2006 | 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by BriancWS6
I am interested in what A/F everyone runs with their bolt on, cam only, or heads/cam car. I was always under the impression that you wanted to stay right around the 13.0 range. What is the highest that you can SAFELY run before you start to shorten the life of your car?

What A/F does it need to be to be safe with a dry shot? In the mid 12's? High 11's? Just looking to see what everyone else is at compared to me. Post up!
H/C 12.9 tuned by East Coast Supercharging
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Old Jul 21, 2006 | 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by BriancWS6
Naw, the car is 100% fine. I am just trying to get opinions on what to do...either leave the tune as is at the 13.4ish-1 a/f or fatten it up to around 13.0.
Bring it to 12.8-12.9 WOT AFR and youll feel a difference! Rightnow your on the lean side
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