DaddySS

Cool, thanks for the tip!

Studytime

iTrader: (15)

Patrick any new information on this cam? How has your fuel economy been?

Ben T.

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

Cam still pulls like a ****. Fuel economy is like it was with other cams of its size. I get around 25-26 mpgs on the highway with the ac on. It's higher with it off, but who does that in the Texas summer? Dyno sheet in signature.

CamTom12

iTrader: (1)

Nice numbers! It's great to see people thinking out of the box... hell, I expect it with you, Patrick, hahaha

-Freak-

iTrader: (6)

Some really good info in here if your looking to get a cam. i know i've learned lots.

ebear

great posttt

zain98

iTrader: (1)

Patrick do you have a sound clip of your car with that cam at idle?

DuronClocker

iTrader: (25)

If the weather warms up enough for me to start my car tomorrow, I'll try to get a clip of my car idling with it through the Magnaflow and possibly through the cut out. I've been meaning to do it.

EDIT: Attached my dyno sheet. This was without the cutout. Still on stock pushrods too, I need to get some hardened ones. Ran a 12.3@118 w/ a 2.0 60' on bald nittos and Koni SAs last week with the cutout open.

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

Nice looking power under the curve. That graph looks a lot like mine. Congrats!

DuronClocker

iTrader: (25)

Thanks Patrick, I hope to be very close to your numbers with the cutout open and the ported FAST and other intake upgrades on in the spring. Also plan on a 100 shot or so next season until I build the forged motor. I understand I'll lose a few HP with the 3.73 12-bolt though.

I'd also be interested in a sound clip of your car too though actually. I've been debating going with an SLP dual/dual to try and quiet things down a little bit. Also debated maybe putting cats back on the car ($$$) or putting a bullet muffler of some sort in the I-pipe after the cutout.

Only downsides so far are Speed Inc's tune in the low end (surging issues that they blame on the cam and don't bother to try and tune out) and the engine sounding like a sewing machine. I'm also trying to avoid driving my car now that its near or below freezing.

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

This cam is very easy to tune...just need to take a little time to sort out the airflow tables and VE tables. The sewing machine sound may be from running too short of pushrods. How long are yours? Have your heads been milled and what head gasket thickness are you running?

DuronClocker

iTrader: (25)

Heads have been milled, I'm not sure how much. If I remember right they are 853 castings and are supposed to have 11.1 compression with a "stock" gasket. I'm running the Felpro gasket (9284PT?). Don't remember the thickness anymore, I did when I assembled it.

I'm using stock pushrods. I have a pushrod length checker here in my room that I've been meaning to use on the car to verify what size I should buy. There didn't appear to be any slack in them, I had figured that the sewing machine sound was something I'd have to deal with because of the aggressive lobes.

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

The small base circle of the LSK lobes require running .050" longer pushrods than stock. If you've milled the heads or are running a thinner head gasket, then that will make up some of that. Otherwise, you may be running too short of pushrods and your plunger depth is not ideal.

DuronClocker

iTrader: (25)

I knew about the smaller base circle and figured the milled heads would help a bit. I want to say these Felpro gaskets are more on the thick side though I think. There isn't a ton of information available about them. I had the pushrod checker but didn't have time to get the right pushrods. The 7.400" seemed to not be loose or too tight, so I figured they would be fine for a temporary time. Then the car seemed to be running well and everything so I left them as-is. I've been meaning to replace them for a while, and now that the car is finally pretty much down for the season, I'll be doing that soon. That'd be great if this can get rid of my engine noise. Also need to get some better header bolts. Again, something I had planned to do but didn't have time/money for at the time.

Thanks for all of the help and such. I love the cam

BlackHawk T/A

iTrader: (3)

Why a 111+1? Why not a 226/230 110+0?

So the basic idea here (to sum things up) is run a lower duration and lower LSA around 110 and that will keep the valve events where you want them? 41-44 IVC and 44-46 EVO correct? Of course this applies to a 346 cubic inch engine.

I don't see how such a low duration cam can peak at 6300 or higher with all these crazy cams some people run on this board.

Also can you run LSK lobes without the crazy lift? Say an LSK lobe around .600"? Would you then be able to get away with a lighter valve/lighter spring setup like Comp 918? If its too risky running the LSK lobes on less than a strong dual spring, then would an XER lobed cam of this profile still give good results?

What would happen if you moved your 224/228 up to 226/230 still on a 110+0? My playing with Desktop Dyno shows a 226/230 cam with a 110 centerline comes out to IVC 43, EVO 45, IVO 3, EVC 5 with an overlap of 8 degrees. It also looks like it carries the peak a little bit farther. Is this accurate? What about a 6 degree split like 224/230 or 226/232, would that be better or should you just stick with 4 degrees?

And if you go 2 more degrees, to 228/232 110+0 you get IVC 44, EVO 46, IVO 4, EVC 6 with 10 degrees of overlap. Obviously there is going to be a point of diminishing returns. Is this too much and does it negate your hunt for a "torque cam"? Obviously it would also get in return an increasingly rough idle with the higher overlap. I am starting to see that the more duration you go with you have to run an even lower centerline to get the same IVC/EVO events but the IVO/EVC increases. I'm guessing this is a bad thing? It looks like all it does is move the powerband up and make the idle rougher, am I right? And how do you determine how its "biased toward the intake"? That is the part I am trying to understand. Sorry if it has been gone over already.

In comparison the 224/228 110 shows IVC 42 EVO 44 with 6 degrees of overlap. Looks like it gets things done a bit earlier.

Would a cam with this sort of profile be hard to tune in an A4 car?

This type of cam setup looks to be exactly what I have been looking for so I am really glad I took the time to soak in the last 18 pages. That was a very intense 3 hours! This was originally a quick question but I ended up adding a lot to it. Hope you guys can handle the barrage of questions. Hopefully it helps fuel the discussion

hammertime

iTrader: (1)

Are your heads ported, or just milled? If you were able to get those numbers with stock heads that were just milled, that's fantastic!

Also, did you check PTV clearance. I know Patrick is running AFR heads that tend to have more clearance after milling than stock unmilled castings. You should be fine at this duration, but just curious.

BlackHawk T/A

iTrader: (3)

To the top.

It seems like such a simple concept, run a cam on a 110...how come this hasn't become popular? Why have all these LS1 cam makers been doing 112 and 114 LSA's all this time when all it does with more duration is put your valve events where you don't want them? It seems like what they are trying to do is tame down a high duration cam and make it more streetable, when really a lower duration cam on a lower LSA is what you really want, without the side effects of the high LSA throwing off your valve events with a lot of duration.

This is very good information, for someone considering a setup like this in a street car. Spring life is a concern, and these LSK lobes may be a bit over the edge (but that remains to be seen). I especially like your information detailing exactly what an equal XE-R cam would look like, because I considered that as an alternative.

A 226/230 110 XE-R cam with around .600" sounds right for me. That way I could probably get away with lighter single springs and lightweight valves.

Jroc99SS

iTrader: (2)

What size pushrods do you use with a comp 228/232 cam?

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

With stock unmilled heads and stock gasket thickness, either 7.425" or 7.450"...the perfect range is in between (7.4375").

00SS!

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the good info! I know what I will get now for my future heads/cam swap. Would this work as well on a 383?