thehammer69

iTrader: (2)

I don't think you should let the ICL be less than 110 with the 224/228 cam you are considering. Right now, you are looking at an ICL of 108 with your 110+2, and I think it may have the powerband falling off sooner than you like in the Z06. Personally, I think you would be better with around a 112+1 or +2. You would have a noticable gain in Torque over the stock cam and should pull strong up top too.

Hammer

okls1

Hammer, your car should be a torque monster when u get those parts on there. That is ture, maybe I should go back to the ole 228/232 on 110+2, to give it a little more top end. The 224/228 just makes great dcr 8.51 where on 112 its down to 8.41 but the vette is light, and I still want it to pull hard up top... Its just that the vette is a lot of fun just cutting through traffic at low rpm <3k. It just feels weird buyin the same cam again for the new car lol. Think I will be degreeing my cam this time though as it was retarded dot to dot last time

thehammer69

iTrader: (2)

How about this idea...Building off the idea of the 224/228 cam...Let's go with a 111+2 which will bump the DCR over 8.5 but then we will change the exhaust duration to a 230 which will add a little exhaust bias and help extend rpms up top a hair? You end up with an IVC of 41, EVO of 48, and overlap of 5............224/230 .581/.592 111+2

Hammer

okls1

I like your thinking there hammer. That sounds like a good cam, the bigger split will not effect anything negatively will it? It seems like most people go with big cams in vettes though, I assume just becasue they want a highway/track monster... Any other input on cams for the z06? I kinda like the sounds of the 224/230 .581/.592 111+2, that should make good torque down low the the high dcr and icv=41. Then keep pulling up top say around stock rpms? With the ev0 48? Would that cam respond well to heads if I later decided to upgrade as well? This sounds like an unusal grind, but I would love to see some results from ls6 with similar cams. Thanks for the help

hammertime

iTrader: (1)

A bigger cam is more managable in a light car, especially a lightweight Z06 that has a deeper 1st gear than a garden variety 'vette or F-body.

Also, I wonder what the stats are on daily driven 'vettes vs. F-bodys?

thehammer69

iTrader: (2)

That cam would work great with a set of high velocity intake ports such as on the AFR 205's

As far as it being an unusual grind, it really isn't. Comp Cam keeps this as one of their catalog cams for the LS1/LS6. The only difference is their cam is a 114LSA...I'm not sure how much advance is ground in though.

Hammer

okls1

You have a good point there, most z06's with big cams probably not dd cars. Well my stang and camaro both had 4.10s so im used to short gears. Even with 4.10s the camaro would buck down low, but I did have 850rpm idle cus it sounded so sexy... AFR's are just so damn expensive, but maybe down the line I will have the cash for some. I just meant unusual as in this thread its mainly 224/228 or 228/232 xer cams on tight lsa's. I think this cam would probably give everything I am looking for though, great power under the curve, still make 415rwhp I would think... Are you doing the install on your car hammer? I know I have to drop the rack to do cam swap but the worst part will be having to change the stock clutch to handle the power after the cam

thehammer69

iTrader: (2)

The key to affordable AFR's is to watch the For Sale sections of the various forums for a pair of low milage AFR 205's. I've seen them go as low as $1600. I would say the average price is about $1800 used.

Yes, I will be doing the install. Just waiting on various parts to come in before starting.

If you aren't too agressive with the operation of your clutch, you may be able to get some life out of it with your cam.

Hammer

okls1

that would be the best way, but not sure if a poor college student like myself can spend the extra $600 on heads for and extra 10hp over some prc's or something. I have 45k miles on the stocker right now, I do NOT power shift or anything and dont go to the track much, but I have read they can't handle much over the stock power levels. I hope it lasts for a long time cus I don't think it will be much fun changing that clutch, much worse then the fbody thats for damn sure. What clutch are you running hammer? I know the stocker can't handle all that power your gonna throw at it.

thehammer69

iTrader: (2)

I realize my opinion may go against the grain around here, but I believe for the most part that the CNC ported LS6 heads aren't worth the money if you already have a set of LS6 heads on your engine. Yes, they flow a bit more but the loss of port velocity is not worth it to me. Now if you are talking the majority of LS1 headed people around here, then yes, it's a significant upgrade. Also, you shouldn't focus on the small horsepower gain of the AFR's over the cnc'd LS6 heads. The focus should be on the great drivability characteristics they give you along with that "10 hp" increase. I know it's hard to grasp when just looking at numbers....I've been there myself. You learn over the years that just about anybody can fall on horsepower by just bolting on parts, it's the real smart ones that can make a fast car out of "balanced combinations." Look at the Patrick G's car, most would just scoff at his cam specs as being too small...then they see the performance. He's got horsepower AND strong torque.

As far as my clutch, I'm keeping it for the moment but don't expect it to last, I'll probably be looking at the Textralia copy cat clutch.

Hammer

okls1

I see your point there, and I believe everyone realizes that afr's are top of the line, just not everyone can affoard them. I guess on an ls6 it is not worth it to change to cnc ls6 heads, but it will be a long time before I can buy heads. I dont think my clutch will like the cam and that is much more crucial then getting heads obviously. I know most people go for peak numbers, which is the contrary in this thread where area under the curve is the key focus. Patricks setup makes awesome power for the cam size, but not sure I want to run so much lift on a dd car. I have learned a lot from him and predator and some of the other guys who dont focus on biggest possible cam for most peak power. I do actually dd my car though and do a majority of my driving under 2500rpm so no point to put a trex in my car. I really like the 224/230 spec cam and will most likely use that when the time comes, unless anyone has an oppion on why I should not... thanks again for the help

okls1

This is a good point, im curious then is it not a good idea to use something with high torque in the z0? I was really liking leaning towards a 224/230 cam on xfi lobes 110+1 lsa. Previously was the 224/230 xer 111+2? The car already has traction issues with 315 ps2 tires, so would it be better to have my original 228/232 xer on 110 + 2? I dont care about track times or peak numbers really, just not sure if I am trying to go too small on the cam for the ls6. Im new to the whole z06 scene, sorry for all the questions. I really appreciate all the help

808ws6

iTrader: (6)

Hey Pat,

I am running the same heads (Patriot Ls6 CNC, stock valves, 64cc) with a cometic .040" on a stock '01 LS1 shortblock (Fast 90/90, LT headers, 3.73 M6).
If I use this awesome torquer cam of yours, do I need to advance the 110 to raise my DCR? If so, how much?
Can I use the Patriot dual gold springs that are already installed?
Can I get away with 7.400" pushrods since I am running the cometics?
Thanks for all your help and wealth of knowledge. Look forward to your reply!

808ws6

iTrader: (6)

Hey Pat,

I am running Patriot Ls6 CNC, stock valves, 64cc) with a cometic .040" on a stock '01 LS1 shortblock (Fast 90/90, LT headers, 3.73 M6).
If I use this awesome torquer cam of yours (in your current sig), do I need to advance the 110 to raise my DCR? If so, how much?
Can I use the Patriot dual gold springs that are already installed?
Can I get away with 7.400" pushrods since I am running the cometics?
Thanks for all your help and wealth of knowledge. Look forward to your reply!

Pat or Predator, any suggestion please.

Thanks

thehammer69

iTrader: (2)

There are two answers....

The first, based soley on DCR, advancing it +3 degrees should get the optimum DCR of 8.7ish with the LSK lobes.

The second answer is...according to my Dynosim advanced software...+1 degrees produces the best all around power.

Hammer

808ws6

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the reply!

SO +2 is a happy median?

thehammer69

iTrader: (2)

Went back and looked a little closer at Dynosim...actually the +2 is tad better than +1. I would say go with the +2.

Hammer

808ws6

iTrader: (6)

Hey Hammer!

Thanks again and appreciate you taking the time to reply and checking it out for me.

110+2 it is!

silverZinSD

iTrader: (7)

Would this cam work ok with a lesser set of heads. Would a guy need to fly cut his pistons. I have horsepower now, but no torque.

hammertime

iTrader: (1)

Since this thread has grown to epic proportions (22 pages and still going) you may have missed early on that duration has a far greater impact on piston to valve clearance than lift. Figure both lobes are only a little off the seat at overlap, the exhaust just closing while the intake is just opening. For reference, the TRex (242/248 .608/.612 110 LSA) is designed to clear in a stock engine, so 224/228 or 224/230 should not have any issues.

Since this looks like your first post, welcome to LS1tech! I recommend reading this entire thread for lots of camshaft tech, and why this setup makes both HP and Torque. I'm suprised this hasn't found it's way into the cam guide (see signature)