Spark Plugs For Darts Confused
04-06-2006, 10:31 AM
#23
Originally Posted by Malihoochie
It seems that the #'s NGK gave you are the same thing as the "missing" FR6 .
The "R" before the 5671A-x designates resistor.
PS - Good looking run, KP.
The "R" before the 5671A-x designates resistor.
PS - Good looking run, KP.
At least that what the rep who used to give me free plugs told me years ago lol. I'm pretty sure the R5xxx plugs are all non-resistor.
04-06-2006, 11:01 AM
#24
Originally Posted by Malihoochie
A tech sheet can be e-mailed to any of you that may not have received one with your heads. The tech sheet has spark plugs rec's, etc. For some reason it doesn't appear on our site either (?) but we'll get that fixed asap.
I didn't get one either, sent you a PM with e-mail address.
Last edited by vettenuts; 04-06-2006 at 11:21 AM.
04-06-2006, 11:56 AM
#25
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KP - I honestly am not sure about that R. LOL. The R in the majority of the V-power plugs does stand for resistor though. I think it would not be a factor though, as the wires should be capable of supressing any RF/radio noise.
04-06-2006, 12:06 PM
#27
Originally Posted by Malihoochie
KP - I honestly am not sure about that R. LOL. The R in the majority of the V-power plugs does stand for resistor though. I think it would not be a factor though, as the wires should be capable of supressing any RF/radio noise.
I just checked and the R5671/2 and the autolite 3924 (AR3934 actually) are non resister plugs. Some of the 'R' series plugs are resistor, when they start with BPR or FR or TR the 'r' means resistor, when they start with just an R that means race. NGK is no doubt the most confusing numbering system there is.
I would say FR5 for stock apps and 3922 or 3923 for N20/FI etc just to be on the safe side and keep it resistor. Maybe check with NGK on which other plug would be exactly the same as a FR5 in the 6-7 heat range if people want the V-powah
04-06-2006, 01:12 PM
#28
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"NGK is no doubt the most confusing numbering system there is." - Amen to that! Haha! When they came out with their numbering matrix, they definitely went their own way.
04-06-2006, 02:42 PM
#29
I went to the local 'real' parts store and looked through a ton of plugs, I'll just use these for now. These have kind of an 'in between' projected tip and the top doesnt screw off like the TR6s so thats a plus and the overall length is the same as a TR6. BKR6E-11 and they are V-grooved plugs gapped at .044. I wanted to find something that most parts store stocka n thats a common plug, can go to a BKR7E-11 if it needs to be colder or an autolite 3922. I have always had good luck with NGK plugs though, these are 'assembled in the USA with parts from Japan' and the TR6s are made in Japan though - who knows
04-06-2006, 07:50 PM
#32
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The spark plug hole, threads, and taper just before the threads on my Dart heads look just like all of the above on the spark plug hole of my stock heads. It looks to me like you can use a taper seat plug or a gasket plug on both the Dart heads or the stock heads. I went to put FR5's in my Dart heads tonite, after 4 plugs I compared the stock heads to the Dart heads and they look exactly the same. I put my stock iridiums back in, call me crazy but am I missing something. I'd rather have taper seat than gasket.
04-06-2006, 07:56 PM
#33
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Ok guys. DO WHAT THE DAMN PLUG MANUFACTURE RECOMMENDS!!!!!
Have any of you ever done an ion current test on your engine????? If not, you should probably do what they recommend.
I have used plenty of NGK Iridium plugs and Denso Iridium and they are both great. Never had a problem. I have done enough testing to know which heat ranges to run. The thing always to remember is if you get a plug thats too cold, it is a heck of a lot cheaper to replace than a piston or 3!!!!
And always run the iridiums. You may not want to spend the money now, but you will be able to run 1 heat range colder and the plug will stay clean. It is just money well spent.
And for god sake stay away from those +4 Bosch things!!! Those things shroud the spark so bad I am suprised that they even work.
If you want the best plug in the industry, it is the Denso Iridium.
Oh, here's a quick breakdown:
Stock LS1 - Denso 16 - NGK 5
LS7 - Denso 20 - NGK 6
Denso 22 - NGK 7
Denso 24 - NGK 8
Denso 27 - NGK 9
Denso 31 - NGK 10
I would give out power numbers for each plug, but every situation is a little different. Just remember that you need a colder plug for a 5.7L making 500hp than you do for a 427 making the same power. Its all about the BMEP.
Have any of you ever done an ion current test on your engine????? If not, you should probably do what they recommend.
I have used plenty of NGK Iridium plugs and Denso Iridium and they are both great. Never had a problem. I have done enough testing to know which heat ranges to run. The thing always to remember is if you get a plug thats too cold, it is a heck of a lot cheaper to replace than a piston or 3!!!!
And always run the iridiums. You may not want to spend the money now, but you will be able to run 1 heat range colder and the plug will stay clean. It is just money well spent.
And for god sake stay away from those +4 Bosch things!!! Those things shroud the spark so bad I am suprised that they even work.
If you want the best plug in the industry, it is the Denso Iridium.
Oh, here's a quick breakdown:
Stock LS1 - Denso 16 - NGK 5
LS7 - Denso 20 - NGK 6
Denso 22 - NGK 7
Denso 24 - NGK 8
Denso 27 - NGK 9
Denso 31 - NGK 10
I would give out power numbers for each plug, but every situation is a little different. Just remember that you need a colder plug for a 5.7L making 500hp than you do for a 427 making the same power. Its all about the BMEP.
For a spark plug one range colder than stock, what would work from Denso (I think Autozone carries them so they are easy to get) and what would work from NGK? 
04-06-2006, 08:29 PM
#37
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Vette Nuts, if you want a plug 1 range colder, get the stock LS7 spark plug. It will proly be the cheapest way to get it. Denso 20
Bottle rocket, that all depends on how much power you are going to be making.
For any cross references, you can go to www.ngk.com
Bottle rocket, that all depends on how much power you are going to be making.
For any cross references, you can go to www.ngk.com
04-06-2006, 08:38 PM
#38
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Here's some more food for thought. This is my Dart 205 with an NGK BKR6E-11 out of the box gap (?) gasketed plug on the left. On the right is an NGK TR55IX .050 gap tapered seat plug.I talked to Rick at Dart today and he said that the LS1 heads were set up for a gasketed plug. But because of the taper that was machined in the head to aid in installation of the spark plug,it looks like a tapered seat plug just happens to work too. I am just not sure of what happens because of the difference in how far the plug goes into the chamber. I am going to stick with what Dart originally intended for these heads. A gasketed plug.
04-06-2006, 08:45 PM
#39
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That tapered seat looks way better to me!!! Look at the shrouding that is going on with that gasketed one!!!
Guys, there is nothing wrong with tapered seats. In fact, I prefer them.
Guys, there is nothing wrong with tapered seats. In fact, I prefer them.