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Strange Ticking Noise
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 963
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From: North Georgia Mountains
Strange Ticking Noise I just got back from a little cruise. I ran into some cool Cobra and Lightning guys and talked to them for a little while and headed back home. On my way home, I noticed when I was at idle there was a strange ticking noise coming from my car echoing off of the surrounding cars. It just starting doing this maybe 15 minutes ago and I am pretty worried as to what it is 
My car only has about 13,400 miles on it. I did make what some call a "money-shift" earlier (when you are driving kind of hard and go into the previous gear instead of the next gear...In my case I was trying to shift into 4th from 3rd and hit 2nd instead 
) My car idles around 800 R.P.M.s since I have a six-speed and the motor ticks about 2, maybe 3, times per second. It almost as if it is a "minor" knocking noise even though this isn't a very "minor" thing to me. I opened the hood while it was running when I got home and the sound appears to be coming from the driver's side of the motor. Has anyone any idea of what it could be???
Thanks in advance...
My car only has about 13,400 miles on it. I did make what some call a "money-shift" earlier (when you are driving kind of hard and go into the previous gear instead of the next gear...In my case I was trying to shift into 4th from 3rd and hit 2nd instead ) My car idles around 800 R.P.M.s since I have a six-speed and the motor ticks about 2, maybe 3, times per second. It almost as if it is a "minor" knocking noise even though this isn't a very "minor" thing to me. I opened the hood while it was running when I got home and the sound appears to be coming from the driver's side of the motor. Has anyone any idea of what it could be???Thanks in advance...
after a mis shift and resulting over-rev, you probably bent some pushrods. Has happened to a lot of people on here.
Leave the spark plug wires on the plugs, just disconnect the coils. Remove the coil pack brackets with all 4 coils still intact. Pull the valvecovers and pull the rockers, youll probably find a couple pushrods bent. Get a few stock ones from the stealership or get some from someone on here, replace, torque rockers on to 22 ft lbs. put valvecovers back on and drive happily. Checking the pushrods should only take an hour or so, its pretty easy.
Leave the spark plug wires on the plugs, just disconnect the coils. Remove the coil pack brackets with all 4 coils still intact. Pull the valvecovers and pull the rockers, youll probably find a couple pushrods bent. Get a few stock ones from the stealership or get some from someone on here, replace, torque rockers on to 22 ft lbs. put valvecovers back on and drive happily. Checking the pushrods should only take an hour or so, its pretty easy.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 963
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From: North Georgia Mountains
Thanks for the help guys. It's not exactly what I wanted to hear, but it's good to know what it is. What exactly causes a bent pushrod? Could something else be damaged in result to the bent pushrod (something had to bend it in the first place, right?)
Also, I plan on putting a larger cam in the future, so could I run some different length/better pushrods while I wait for a cam? This way I won't be buying pushrods that will be pointless later on. Or could different length pushrods not comply with a factory cam? Or could I just run factory spec pushrods with a larger cam?
Also, I plan on putting a larger cam in the future, so could I run some different length/better pushrods while I wait for a cam? This way I won't be buying pushrods that will be pointless later on. Or could different length pushrods not comply with a factory cam? Or could I just run factory spec pushrods with a larger cam?
i dont know if you wanna buy hardened pushrods right now because if you miss another shift, the pushrods wont bend, but this will cause the valves to take the brunt of the force, in turn bending or breaking those. You dont wanna do that. Stock pushrods are very cheap. I bought 5 from a member on here for like 4 bucks so...I would do that.
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Originally Posted by spazzyfry123
Sorry, I forgot to mention which cam I was considering...
Thunder Racing's 224/224 .563/.563 112 LSA
Thunder Racing's 224/224 .563/.563 112 LSA
I have that exact cam. The hardened pushrods from Thunder Racing are the same size as factory, 7.400. But since the stockers are so cheap, you might want to go that route, unless you promise not to miss a shift again until the cam goes in
Manny
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 963
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From: North Georgia Mountains
I checked my oil last night just in case, and it turns out I am a little low (even though the oil doesn't smell burnt). The oil is also pretty thin from the oil change the previous owner performed. I am going to go change the oil in a few minutes with synthetic.
Also, just to gain some more knowledge: What is it that physically bends a pushrod?
Also, just to gain some more knowledge: What is it that physically bends a pushrod?
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 963
Likes: 0
From: North Georgia Mountains
Originally Posted by MannyZ28
I have that exact cam. The hardened pushrods from Thunder Racing are the same size as factory, 7.400. But since the stockers are so cheap, you might want to go that route, unless you promise not to miss a shift again until the cam goes in
Manny
Manny
A little off topic, but how do you like the cam?
Originally Posted by spazzyfry123
What difference would it make to miss a shift without a new cam but with hardened pushrods as opposed to missing a shift with the new cam and hardened pushrods?
A little off topic, but how do you like the cam?
A little off topic, but how do you like the cam?
I love it!
Originally Posted by spazzyfry123
I just got back from a little cruise. I ran into some cool Cobra and Lightning guys and talked to them for a little while and headed back home. On my way home, I noticed when I was at idle there was a strange ticking noise coming from my car echoing off of the surrounding cars. It just starting doing this maybe 15 minutes ago and I am pretty worried as to what it is My car only has about 13,400 miles on it. I did make what some call a "money-shift" earlier (when you are driving kind of hard and go into the previous gear instead of the next gear...In my case I was trying to shift into 4th from 3rd and hit 2nd instead ) My car idles around 800 R.P.M.s since I have a six-speed and the motor ticks about 2, maybe 3, times per second. It almost as if it is a "minor" knocking noise even though this isn't a very "minor" thing to me. I opened the hood while it was running when I got home and the sound appears to be coming from the driver's side of the motor. Has anyone any idea of what it could be???
Thanks in advance...
My car only has about 13,400 miles on it. I did make what some call a "money-shift" earlier (when you are driving kind of hard and go into the previous gear instead of the next gear...In my case I was trying to shift into 4th from 3rd and hit 2nd instead ) My car idles around 800 R.P.M.s since I have a six-speed and the motor ticks about 2, maybe 3, times per second. It almost as if it is a "minor" knocking noise even though this isn't a very "minor" thing to me. I opened the hood while it was running when I got home and the sound appears to be coming from the driver's side of the motor. Has anyone any idea of what it could be???Thanks in advance...
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 963
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From: North Georgia Mountains
Originally Posted by MannyZ28
As nokeman said, if you overrev it with the hardened pushrods installed, the valve would take the brunt of the force, and that's harder and more expensive to replace than the pushrod.
I love it!
I love it!
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 963
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From: North Georgia Mountains
Originally Posted by Shinerbock07
All our Fbody LS1s have a real noisy valvetrain from the factory. And a lil bit of piston slap...thats where oil consumption on our cars come in to place.
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Mannheim, Germany
It's definitely a bent pushrod. If you don't fix it soon, it will break so take it easy on the engine.
When you perform a "money-shift" (I like that term), you are basically doing extreme engine breaking. So extreme is the engine breaking that you end up over-reving the engine.
If you don't know what a pushrod is, go to howstuffworks.com and learn about engines.
When you perform a "money-shift" (I like that term
), you are basically doing extreme engine breaking. So extreme is the engine breaking that you end up over-reving the engine. If you don't know what a pushrod is, go to howstuffworks.com and learn about engines.
Originally Posted by kenkaru
It's definitely a bent pushrod. If you don't fix it soon, it will break so take it easy on the engine.
When you perform a "money-shift" (I like that term), you are basically doing extreme engine breaking. So extreme is the engine breaking that you end up over-reving the engine.
If you don't know what a pushrod is, go to howstuffworks.com and learn about engines.
When you perform a "money-shift" (I like that term
), you are basically doing extreme engine breaking. So extreme is the engine breaking that you end up over-reving the engine. If you don't know what a pushrod is, go to howstuffworks.com and learn about engines.
Actually, ls1 owners are lucky that the pushrods USUALLY bend before the valves do, however not everyone's so lucky. Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 963
Likes: 0
From: North Georgia Mountains
What is a general price range of how much it would cost for labor to replace bent pushrods? (People say this happens often, so I figure some know what it cost them)
So I take it I brought a new term to the forums?
So I take it I brought a new term to the forums?
If your pushrods is bent...will it be a VERY visible, because i checked all mine and they looked good but the ticking didnt go away at all. Im starting to think its an exhaust leak.