push the oil pan forward?
push the oil pan forward? Here's my situation- When I did my cam install a friend tightened the oil pan bolts(installed upgraded oil pump) and appearently he stripped out the long rear 2 bolts, obviousley I now have a oil leak. I was told to Helicoil them to correct this problem but due to their legnth this is not possible, so I was wondering if I dropped the oil pan would I be able to slide it far enough forward to gain access to the bolt holes in the block, I will have the tranny out to do the clutch so if I have to I'll jack the motor up but I was trying to guesstimate how much time I have to spend on someone elses lift, I only have a couple of hours. whatcha think? Possible w/out lifting the motor?
remove the oilpan, drill and helicoil the block.. its not "too long", the pan must be off to do that.
while you're there with the trans off, if theres an oil leak, replace the rear main seal, and rear cover gasket.. that will fix the leak and prevent a new one in the near future.
while you're there with the trans off, if theres an oil leak, replace the rear main seal, and rear cover gasket.. that will fix the leak and prevent a new one in the near future.
Originally Posted by MrDude_1
remove the oilpan, drill and helicoil the block.. its not "too long", the pan must be off to do that.
while you're there with the trans off, if theres an oil leak, replace the rear main seal, and rear cover gasket.. that will fix the leak and prevent a new one in the near future.
while you're there with the trans off, if theres an oil leak, replace the rear main seal, and rear cover gasket.. that will fix the leak and prevent a new one in the near future.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 321
Likes: 0
From: Buffalo, N.Y.
I'm sure there isn't a person on this site who does not know that the LS1/LS6 oil pan is a structural component of the engine block. Proper fore & aft alignment of the oil pan with the block/rear cover is absolutely critical. I'll probably get this backwards, but I believe the rear face of the oil pan has to be .020" forward of the rear cover, and SQUARE with the rear cover. I do not have the manual in front of me right now, but there is a recommended sequence for installing/tightening the oil pan/cover bolts.
The M6 bolts holding the pan to the rear cover require only 106 Inch-lbs of torque.
The M6 bolts holding the pan to the rear cover require only 106 Inch-lbs of torque.
The bolts you're discussing are the rear cover bolts. You don't have to touch the oil pan to pull that part. Just pull the bolts off of it while the tranny is off, and pop it off. The pan can stay just where it is. 
There seems to be some confusion about what I was asking. What I was trying to find out is if there is enough room to slide the oil pan forward so I can drill and tap the rear 2 oil pan bolts that are currently stripped out, then I will helicoil them and re-install the oil pan. I plan on doing this when I have the tranny out to fix the slave cylinder I was hoping to not have to loose the motor mounts and move the engine to gain access to the rear oil pan bolt holes in the block. Sooooo thanks for any info.. Mark 
I did the same thing when I replaced my oil pump (for no reason, btw, because the engine spun some bearings when the pump went) because I was using my brand new air ratchet and wasn't thinking. The car leaked oil like you would not believe. Not that this helps you but good luck
Doug
Doug
Trending Topics
Originally Posted by Hangman
There seems to be some confusion about what I was asking. What I was trying to find out is if there is enough room to slide the oil pan forward so I can drill and tap the rear 2 oil pan bolts that are currently stripped out, then I will helicoil them and re-install the oil pan. I plan on doing this when I have the tranny out to fix the slave cylinder I was hoping to not have to loose the motor mounts and move the engine to gain access to the rear oil pan bolt holes in the block. Sooooo thanks for any info.. Mark
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Originally Posted by xaon
The confusion lies in that to repair the two bolt holes that you are referring to... you DO NOT have to pull the oil pan. Remove the pressure plate, clutch, and flywheel, and then remove the rear cover. The two long oil-pan bolts thread into the bottom of the rear cover, NOT the block.
I want to bring this up again. I just stripped one the these bolt threads tonight. My question is, how important is it. Could I just pull the bolt out and plug the hole so it wont leak. This is obviously a temp repair and will be fixed soon but to get me going it would be worth it?
Im talking abour the long bolt.
Im talking abour the long bolt.
