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Old Apr 9, 2006 | 11:09 AM
  #1  
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Default AFR question?

I´m thinking about buying heads from AFR, What is the difference between 205 and 225? Explain so i understand please

And what cam should i go with?


Thanks for the help
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Old Apr 9, 2006 | 11:14 AM
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PM Tony MAMO.
But in a nutshell, AFR 205s are for stock cubes and 225 were designed for bigger motors.
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 10:22 AM
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OK, Then 205 it is...

Recommendations on camchoice?
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by D_Run
OK, Then 205 it is...

Recommendations on camchoice?
Tony will also have some pretty good recommendations for that. He'll know what cam will fit based on how much is milled from the heads. Everything needs to match up. I think that if you get the 205's milled about .030, he'll reccomend no more than a 224/228 duration cam.
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Xtnct00WS6
Tony will also have some pretty good recommendations for that. He'll know what cam will fit based on how much is milled from the heads. Everything needs to match up. I think that if you get the 205's milled about .030, he'll reccomend no more than a 224/228 duration cam.
Ive been going in the high 220's and LOW 230's for the guys that don't mind running their P to V a little tighter then the textbook spec. Lets face it, you could run a 234/236 in the motor but your safety net and tolerance to an unexpected over-rev (which will happen at some point in time) is dramatically reduced. Its really just a matter of how tight you choose to run your engine. Ultimately your the guy that will have to pay the piper if you encounter a bent valve or worse.

Tony M.

PS....As a side note, I am personally more leary of running tight P to V with hyd. roller cammed engines that rev hard like the LS1.....they are already experiencing valve control issues at high RPM....some of which are more apparent than others (I feel ALL Hyd. roller motors have questionable valve control approaching 7K). A solid roller on the other hand has more spring pressure and no hydraulic plungers to contend with, both of which have a dramatic improvement on valve control allowing tighter P to V clearances to be run with a higher degree of confidence.
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 02:07 PM
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OK... do AFR sell complete packages?

what kind of power are we talking about?
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by D_Run
OK... do AFR sell complete packages?

what kind of power are we talking about?
From mild to wild...You should seriously take the time to cruise thru a few of the AFR threads. There is enough info on this board to fill an encyclopedia and Im not joking. I have spent tons of time on theory, applications, combinations, and dyno results. There are also dyno results from probably hundreds of AFR headed end users like yourself.

OR, provide a clearer picture of what you are trying to achieve, how much octane you have available, your tolerance for a choppy idle, and perhaps an idea of how much $$$ you have to spend. There are plenty of people on this site that could send you in the right direction with all those parameters, but a little digging around on your own would probably be helpful.

Thanks,
Tony
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 03:32 PM
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What's the biggest cam you guys would suggest that would still pass a sniffer? I have a feeling your 224/228 might not...
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by MeentSS02
What's the biggest cam you guys would suggest that would still pass a sniffer? I have a feeling your 224/228 might not...
224/224 on a 114...or better yet a 115 LSA.

Actually my former combo just missed passing and had I changed the thermostat to a higher temp (like stock 195') and got the driveline and exhaust warmed up (my car was stone cold) I'm actually fairly certain I would have squeaked by, BUT, too close for comfort for a guy that HAS to pass and doesn't want to be biting his nails during the test.

Tony M.
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 04:06 PM
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The cutoff for passing the sniffer test seems to be -7 degrees of overlap at .050". Any more overlap than that has a tough time passing. The 224/228 114 cam has -2 degrees of overlap (so it's a little on the "dirty" side).
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 05:28 PM
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Get AFR 205s and LG G5x-3 cam!
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 08:44 PM
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Another cam option would be AFR's 220/224 cam. Would be a good choice with their heads.

Brian
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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Tony Mamo @ AFR
224/224 on a 114...or better yet a 115 LSA.

Actually my former combo just missed passing and had I changed the thermostat to a higher temp (like stock 195') and got the driveline and exhaust warmed up (my car was stone cold) I'm actually fairly certain I would have squeaked by, BUT, too close for comfort for a guy that HAS to pass and doesn't want to be biting his nails during the test.

Tony M.
Since your heads seem to favor an extra 4* of duration on the exhaust side, would one of those two cams (224/224 on 114 or 115) be better than say a 220/224 option (on a 114)?
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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by MeentSS02
Since your heads seem to favor an extra 4* of duration on the exhaust side, would one of those two cams (224/224 on 114 or 115) be better than say a 220/224 option (on a 114)?
The single on the same LSA (114) would make a little more peak power and make a little less area under the curve. Obviously the smaller cam would idle a tad smoother (barely noticable) and have a better chance of passing emissions.

Cam choice is always give and take....never a free lunch....LOL

Tony M.
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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 12:11 PM
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Tony what are the full specs on your 220/224 cam that brians98ss mentioned?
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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 02:02 PM
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Tony - Ofcourse i have read about AFR on the forum
the 224/224 on 114 or 115 seems like a good choice. What hp are we talking about? (with LT headers)
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