How to flycut?
Originally Posted by Galen
Guits Boy, why couldn't you just use a couple of junk valves to do the same thing? I plan on doing this within the week and was planning on just using the valves. If I can't, I would like to know before I have the top end torn off my dd.
Now to look at it while the piston is still partially down the bore (where p to v is usually closest). vecause of the 15* valve angle, the side clearance will increase, however now it presents a new problem. Since the valve is not flat, its tuliped, its gonna leave a bump in the relief. As the valve has moved over laterally (the piston is slightly down bore), the edge of the valve is not on top of the bump left from the tulip shape.
See if you can order a couple larger valves, like a 2.120 and a 1.675 valve, then fill in the bottoom tulips with JB weld, file flat, then use the adhesive backed sandpaper. You really need to cut bigger than your valves.
Originally Posted by Galen
Guits Boy, why couldn't you just use a couple of junk valves to do the same thing? I plan on doing this within the week and was planning on just using the valves. If I can't, I would like to know before I have the top end torn off my dd.
Thanks!
Galen
Thanks!
Galen
Originally Posted by Xtnct00WS6
I was thinking that too. Maybe you could put a piece of circular metal at the base of the valve to make it the right size and to also have a true flat surface. My valves have a concave shape and are too small in diameter. You need slightly bigger than what you'll be running I believe. Anyone know size diameter ur supposed to run w/ a 2.02 and 1.57 valve?
Let's get the Head for using into this thread now.. Once you get a head that can be used (I think one head would be enough) What do you use to cut the size of the seat for the fly cutting tool?
And how precise does it the open have to be?
And how precise does it the open have to be?
Originally Posted by Tri5Nerd
Once you get a head that can be used (I think one head would be enough) What do you use to cut the size of the seat for the fly cutting tool?
And how precise does it the open have to be?
And how precise does it the open have to be?
Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
Just pry out the seats, thats usually enough. I actually took an angle grinder and sliced through all the seats so that they were easier to pry out. all the preceision is in the valve guide, not the seat area.
I'm going to be using oversized valves 2.04", how do I get that to seat flush with concave area where the seat? that's what I'm talking about. Do you open that area up?
If youre talking about installing larger valves on a head you will be using, a machin shop has to install larger valve seats, or at the least cut the existing ones a bit bigger.
How much would a shop normally charge to flycut pistons? I'd like to run the TREX cam with a set of aftermarket heads but will not be doing the install myself. I am not sure if the guy installing the parts would flycut them so I might need to take it somewhere, anyone know how much I should expect to pay?
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Originally Posted by Azar
So you use a cutter that's just a little bit bigger than your valves??
Listen to Guitsboy on this one. His idea of a homemade setup works like a charm. I think using the hardened steel cutters might be a little more precise because of the way the sanding disks wear out faster on the edges like JRracing said, but it works. And if you are doing this job with the engine in the car, be prepared for the last 2 cylinders on the passenger side to kick your ***. They kicked mine. 
Get yourself a high quality, smallest you can find 90* angle for the drill to fit back there.
BTW Guitsboy, I got everything together and it runs like a champ with the bigger cam. Will be doing some tuning and have it dynoed again soon. Thanks for all your advice!
Get yourself a high quality, smallest you can find 90* angle for the drill to fit back there. BTW Guitsboy, I got everything together and it runs like a champ with the bigger cam. Will be doing some tuning and have it dynoed again soon. Thanks for all your advice!
Originally Posted by HavATampa
BTW Guitsboy, I got everything together and it runs like a champ with the bigger cam. Will be doing some tuning and have it dynoed again soon. Thanks for all your advice!
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 730
Likes: 66
What about cleaning up the metal shavings? Any precautions to prevent getting that down in the motor? Its my only hesitation. Shouldnt you tape the entite block deck each piston?
At what height is the piston actually cut at since the interference doesnt occur at TDC....please let me know in piston distance from the deck since degrees wont help me without a wheel or experience.
Thanks
At what height is the piston actually cut at since the interference doesnt occur at TDC....please let me know in piston distance from the deck since degrees wont help me without a wheel or experience.
Thanks
Originally Posted by Spinmonster
What about cleaning up the metal shavings? Any precautions to prevent getting that down in the motor? Its my only hesitation. Shouldnt you tape the entite block deck each piston?
At what height is the piston actually cut at since the interference doesnt occur at TDC....please let me know in piston distance from the deck since degrees wont help me without a wheel or experience.
Thanks
At what height is the piston actually cut at since the interference doesnt occur at TDC....please let me know in piston distance from the deck since degrees wont help me without a wheel or experience.
Thanks
Continue turning the motor over in small increments until ATDC, looking for the clearance to start getting wider. Once you find the positions where the valve is closest, turn it back to that point (or those points) that were closest, using the degrees indicated. If you make more than one cut, you'll want to smooth the remaining material between the cuts so that you don't end up with a hot spot, leading to detonation.
Keep in mind that even advancing or retarding the same cam will change your clearance and where it contacts. Also, if you change cams later, less lift doesn't mean you are safe if you add duration. You'll need to check it all over again.
Hope this helps!
