got an 02 camaro and my goal is to run a ten. Well i am stuck between forged int. to spray it or 402??? Will have supporting mods.

 

well, as long as you do one why not the other? a forged 402 is sounding mighty good.

 

haha I agree!

 

well i am a broke college student so would like to know which is cheaper. Take in mind install prices. Thanks.

 

A forged 402 is not cheap. Buy yourself a nice 100 wet shot and some ET streets and with a little practice you'll be in the 11's for sure.

 

about how much are internals

 

If your a broke college student you can't afford this either. Figure $1500-$2k
for R&R and at this point you are better off going with a shortblock for $2500.

 

Man dont waist your money if your goals are 10`s , Go with a good head/cam combo and u r there , a 100-125 shot sould get u more than u asked with the H/C`s .

 

If you are going to pull the internals then you might as well build a stroker IMO. I would go AFR 205's with a 224 ish cam at .590ish lift. That with headers, a good tune and you should be able to see 11's and with spray you could be in the 10's. But if that is your goal I would also think about the rear if you haven't already taken care of that.

Josh

 

You can get a range of rotating assemblies. But assuming you're wanting it still close to stock displacement (meaning sub 350") here's your options just using Thunder as a base -

Lunati LS1 347 Rotating Assembly, 3.903" Bore, -21cc Reverse Dome Piston, 3.622" Stroke, 6.125" Rod Length, 8.5:1 compression ratio - $3809.49

Lunati LS1 347 Rotating Assembly, 3.903" Bore, -2cc Flat-Top Piston, 3.622" Stroke, 6.125" Rod Length, 10.6:1 compression ratio - $3725.66

Lunati LS1 347 Rotating Assembly, 3.903" Bore, +12cc Dome Piston, 3.622" Stroke, 6.125" Rod Length, 12.5:1 compression ratio - $3789.12

So thats still nearly $4k for an assembly.

You can get an iron block LQ9 based 408" engine for $3800 in shortblock, and ~$6800 for a long block w/ your choice of cam, and choice of heads. (not everyone is the same of course. Some places offer more, some places offer less).

Being a poor college student myself, I know how it is to see everyone pushing out great times and not having any coin to do **** with. It sucks. But, "running 10s" isnt as easy as you're making it out to be. Once you've got your engine setup, thats just 1 factor to the equation. You've now got fuel system, transmission, safety equipment, rear end, exhaust, suspension, wheels/tires, driveshaft, tuning...

You're really going to be a broke college student aiming for 10s once you build this thing. If you've got access to Excel, make a spreadsheet up of what you think it'll take to run 10s in your eyes. Seriously, include everything in those categories that you can think of (its better to have too much on the drawing board, then not enough on the final product). Budget it out, and see what fits. Both of these options can, have and will continue to run 10s so its not like 1 is really "better" than the other. But once you have EVERYTHING on the board in front of you, it'll shock you at just how much **** it takes to run 10s and do it right.

 

And we're supposed to trust the word of a guy with that avatar?



I guess ill agree that if youre careful you can get away without forged internals. The money would be better spent on the rear end and traction.

If you really want to go forged internals, you can find parts on ebay and do it yourself for about a grand, using SBC rods, or possibly substituting scat I beams.