Brains

iTrader: (7)

I've got a set of 6.0 MLS ready to go, and good suggestion on the copper gasket spray. I've got a can, might as well give 'em a quick coat before I toss it all back together tomorrow.

That's one thing about this motor though, its ALWAYS run quite cool. 195 degrees on the nose, stock thermostat, with the radiator cap off yesterday after the gasket failed

JMBLOWNWS6

iTrader: (17)

I used cooper coat on mine 6.0L heads

strokedls1

iTrader: (1)

That is damn cold for a stock thermo. Good luck with the install. I just did som 5.7 mls gaskets last week with copper spray and it sealed it up nice and tight. Also found out that my buddies torque wrench may be out of spec. We used my torque wrench on the second round.

=ZoomZ=

iTrader: (1)

Do a compression check and see if that cylinder is off .

I hydrolocked my motor , fixed it the next weekend , ran it down the track and it spun a rod bearing .

I havnt taken it apart yet but ill bet the same piston that hydroed is the same rod bearing that got roached .

You have hydroed twice ,, haha ,, i feel your pain .

Take the motor out replace the bearings , mic the rods and put it back together again or there is a good chance your will Totaly trash the rods and crank .

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Not sure if I mis-read your earlier post, but it sounded like the heads you are using had some weld repair. Might want to consider some testing for cracks from the welds or other issues.

Brains

iTrader: (7)

The heads weren't repaired, I simply had those little notches at the edge welded up so I could use GM MLS gaskets. They were then milled, pressure tested, etc. I verified the heads weren't warped this morning with a straightedge, and they're less than .0005" out from end to end. Pretty darned straight.

This time when it hydro'ed, it didn't leak hardly any water in the oil pan. The oil wasn't milky at all, and still isn't. Not to mention, I drove her home after the little "incident" (pulled plugs, turned it over a few times, plugs back in and drove home). If it were going to lunch the bearings, it would have already happened. If I'm going to pull the motor, this one isn't going back in I want to drop the iron block for a 402cid LS2 based motor, just don't have the "discretionary" funds available right now to pull the trigger.

dyls1

iTrader: (11)

Stupid question but are you able to pull the heads while the engine is still in the car with the head studs? Or do you have to pull the studs out too?

Brains

iTrader: (7)

You have plenty of room to pull the heads with the studs still in the motor. I prefer the studs to head bolts, cuz its easier to drop the head back in the car and have it "automatically" lined up

=ZoomZ=

iTrader: (1)

Brains
Start saving now

The force that it took to break the starter flang was also exerted on the bearing .

If you take it easy on the motor it might last if your lucky .

Brains

iTrader: (7)

I put 20k miles on it between hydrolocking incidents, and about 30k total, so its ready for a set of bearings anyway I imagine I'll have to start saving for the 402 next year sometime though, this year its all about paying for the wedding As much as I'd love to pull this thing out and "do it right" I'm going to leave it in there and just run with it. When it gets replaced with the aluminum motor, I'll freshen it up and either sell it or drop it in another project car.

I started disassembling the heads, checking and cleaning everything. The backs of the intake valves are caked pretty badly, probably .010" worth. They're all numbered and sitting with their heads in solvent right now. I cleaned up all the chambers, they weren't too bad but you can definitely see where the air moves slower around the shrouded edges of the valves. Intake ports look like crap, pretty normal. Wiped those out as well. I'll spring for a new set of springs (haha) though, these 918's have about had it I'm sure - especially running on top of a 238/240 .605/.609 112+2 XE-R lobe camshaft.