Altight, am I doing something wrong here..

I have the pass valve cover off.. and I'm trying to take off the first rocker arm bolt.. And I can't get it to budge?

Am I missing something here? Do I have to turn the engine over to relieve pressure on the rocker?

or do I simpley need to use a longer lever?

 

This is one I asked on LS1 Tech about 7 years ago when I did my first cam install. GM uses locktite under the flat washer portion of the rocker bolts. The bolts are only 22 lb/ft, but the locktite is more like 100. Use a 3/8 drive breaker bar and a short extension and a 6 point 8mm socket. Give each bolt a QUICK, HARD twist making sure the socket is mounted squarely on the bolt head when you apply pressure. Once the locktite fractures you will be able to unscrew the bolts with your fingers.

 

Yep, what he said. I even broke two 8mm sockets on them. A Craftsman and a Snap-on. Was using deep sockets, had to buy a shallow and it withstood fine. More substance to a shallow 8mm than a deep 8mm.

 

Haha I did the same thing (cracked two Craftsman sockets) and wound up buying an impact socket and using about 3 feet of extension on my socket driver to break the exhaust rocker loose on #8.

That sumbitch was stuck good, I thought I was gonna snap the head off the bolt !

Rob (Bad30th)

 

I broke two 16 point 1/4 drive sockets and I then bought a 3/8 drive six point and it worked fine for me.

 

Heat up the engine before you remove the rocker bolts. They come out alot easier..

 

i'm actuall gonna check mine to make sure they're tight before getting tuned.

 

the rocker bolt threads have sealer or locktite on them to prevent oil/air leaks into the intake too. With that and the loctite in the washers they are pretty hard to get off

 

heat works wonders on loctite